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Hey all,

Recently installed a REV300 with the BOE fastworks tune in my Elise and have been seeing an intermittent P0328 code being thrown related to the knock sensor. Definitely not an expert and searching P0328 isn't pulling up much other than that it could be knock, or could be an electrical or sensor fault, but my obvious primary concern is whether or not it's indicative of actual detonation so hoping to get some input.

I suppose my first question: is knock obvious in the 2ZZ or does it require a trained ear? I've been listening for knock since the install and haven't heard the 'rocks in a can' that other people have mentioned. The only noticeable difference in sound since the conversion aside from SC whine has been somewhat of a metallic, very high frequency slurping through a straw sound coming outside the car on the drivers side, which to me obviously sounds like the new CAI sucking air into the blower, but occasionally around 4-5k RPM it sounds a little more like someone lightly jingling a bag of aluminum washers. It's faint and can only be heard through the drivers side window. No sound through the firewall, and can't hear it with the windows up. Still could be the CAI, but I have no real frame of reference on that.

Other thing I've noticed is the MIL seems to come on randomly. Doesn't always throw a code. Drove for an hour the other day, nothing. The next day it was on within 5 minutes. I've been taking it fairly easy while sorting this all out, and last time it came on was actually around 4k RPM with partial throttle. I also checked the plugs, and didn't notice any signs of detonation. AFR seems fine - maybe a little rich, 10-11 at WOT.

Just trying to figure out what my next steps should be. Thanks!
 

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You'll know when it's detonating mine sounded like a diesel. Take you phone and record the audio of your engine bay with regards to your intake sounds. Was it a new install or used parts? If new have you talked with Andrew?
 

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Check with the tuner and tell them the plugs and octane rating you are using. Plugs can make a huge difference, and not all knock is audible.
 

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You'll know when it's detonating mine sounded like a diesel. Take you phone and record the audio of your engine bay with regards to your intake sounds. Was it a new install or used parts? If new have you talked with Andrew?
Got it, I'll try and grab some audio. It can be hard to catch with the road noise, but what you mentioned sounds more like what I was expecting to hear from detonation and it's definitely not that. The REV300 kit was new, I do plan on reaching out to Andrew and those guys.

Check with the tuner and tell them the plugs and octane rating you are using. Plugs can make a huge difference, and not all knock is audible.
They supplied the plugs with the kit and I double checked the gap before install, but you're right, probably a question for BOE.
 

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When I first installed my Rev 300, I was getting pinging, more like the washer in a bag as you described. THAT IS DEFINITELY KNOCK and should be taken care of right away.

The 91 octane gas the Boe uses as a standard for their tunes is definitely a better quality, than the stuff we get here on the west coast. When I spoke with Andrew, he told me that I needed a "California tune" :) . I don't know where you live, but if you are anywhere around the west coast, that's your problem.
We also have Chevron 94 available, but even with that in the tank, I could still get it to ping when completely warmed up.
Do this test, go for a normal run and warm up the engine. Then find a hill and put HIGH LOAD on the engine, I.E. go high gear low speed, then step on it and listen carefully, if you hear that rattling sound, it's time to send off the ECU for a retune.
Do make sure you don't have any loose washers or the like, that can rattle when you put load on the engine.
 

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^+1

Another test you can do is fill up with some unleaded race gas and see if the pinging (washers in a bag sound) goes away, if it does then you know for sure. If you can’t get race gas, add a gallon of toluene to your tank, it will also significantly bump up your octane (the r+m/2 octane of toluene is 114). You can buy toluene at a paint store, just read the label and handle carefully.

-Ed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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They supplied the plugs with the kit and I double checked the gap before install, but you're right, probably a question for BOE.
This is more as an FYI since I'd be surprised if they gave you the wrong plugs, but it is the heat range I'd be more concerned about. For the same model of plug and same gap, the heat range can make a huge difference in knock.

While CRG is right about load being the most likely time to knock, knock is possible at every single load point if someone got too aggressive with the tune. If you have an OBDII app, you might be able to record data like IAT, throttle, rpm, and knock signal to see exactly when it is happening. Going back to the above point, I could actually get a single knock when just blipping the throttle quickly at idle. I am now running the same plugs as what BOE sells for your application, and I am yet to figure out why my stock tune was doing that.
 

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If you can hear knock, it's excessive and obviously should only be verified when logging data going forward. Having an A/F WB is important because you can also watch the A/F during throttle transition (tip in) and more useful on a day to day basis as a reference. Not everyone will data log all the time. Knock that occurs under WOT in the higher RPM's will too be reflected in the A/F going to lean. The latter, introduces more factors, fuel pump, timing, lean fuel maps, low voltage, etc. etc.
That sound you're hearing like others have mentioned is most likely knocking :-(
I assume BOE did the tune? If so, contact them for guidance.
To clarify tip in, your a/f should go rich (mine goes immediately to <12:0 from stoich ~14:7) as a point of reference.
 
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