Anyone? Driving without a working shift light (and annoying flash while I drive) would be a terrible future 
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Disabled immobilizer = constant tach flashing
Hi All,
New guy here - I searched through a number of threads about the flashing tach light/immobilizer disabled issues and haven't seen this. Hopefully someone can point me to the right thread of help me out!
I bought my 2005 elise recently and the dealer had at some point disabled the immobilizer (I believe they said they "shorted" the immobilizer module to do so). I'm all for it (after reading the car alarm woes on here!), but my tach/security tell tale light flashes when the car is off and running (at a steady rate). I obtained my security PIN from the dealer and went through the PIN entry process to "mobilize" the car, which stopped the blinking (both parked and when I test drove it)! Unfortunately, when I went to drive it the next day, the blinking returned. Any ideas on how I can permanently put my car in the "mobilized" state?
Thanks for reading! :wave:
New guy here - I searched through a number of threads about the flashing tach light/immobilizer disabled issues and haven't seen this. Hopefully someone can point me to the right thread of help me out!
I bought my 2005 elise recently and the dealer had at some point disabled the immobilizer (I believe they said they "shorted" the immobilizer module to do so). I'm all for it (after reading the car alarm woes on here!), but my tach/security tell tale light flashes when the car is off and running (at a steady rate). I obtained my security PIN from the dealer and went through the PIN entry process to "mobilize" the car, which stopped the blinking (both parked and when I test drove it)! Unfortunately, when I went to drive it the next day, the blinking returned. Any ideas on how I can permanently put my car in the "mobilized" state?
Thanks for reading! :wave:
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What you are experiencing is a result of pulling the plug on the immobilizer while trying to bypass it. The immobilizer plug needs to be reconnected with the bypass in place.
Michael
Michael
Thanks for the reply! I'm not terribly handy, and am not familiar with exactly how the bypass was done or the "plug" you are mentioning. Can you step me through the fix?
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I finally got to tearing off the back trim panel, and from what I'm seeing it looks like the dealer performed the bypass correctly. Does this bypass look correct to those who know?
![Electrical wiring Wire Cable Technology Auto part]()
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It looks like the bypass was done incorrectly. The wires from the immobilizer must be connected to the bypassed wires. The dash security light is flashing because the immobilizer sees an open circuit which indicates an armed system, hence the flashing.I finally got to tearing off the back trim panel, and from what I'm seeing it looks like the dealer performed the bypass correctly. Does this bypass look correct to those who know? View attachment 418433 View attachment 418441
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Michael
so you basically patch the wires together and then attach back to the original wire, correct?
each bypassed side would reconnect to the main wiring which would then send the signal back and kill the light flashing... I am thinking.
each bypassed side would reconnect to the main wiring which would then send the signal back and kill the light flashing... I am thinking.
Ideally I would patch the four severed wires back to the connector, but as they are all black, it's impossible to tell which pair go to which side of the connector. I do, however, know of the cut wires are in each pair. Connecting them prior to the connector would seem to serve the same purpose as doing the splice on the other side. I tried this, and unfortunately, the flashing light issue persists.
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If you have correctly bypassed the 8502 immobilizer and it still blinks, then the possibility is that the unit is defective.
Michael
Cobra Distributer
Michael
Cobra Distributer
Thanks Michael. I will look into why the last owner had the bypass performed and see if a new immobilzer is in the cards.
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Update
Car will be going in to the dealer next Tuesday, and they'll throw a different immobilizer in and see if they can get the security alarm working again. They said they've had less than great results swapping out single components on the alarm, so my fingers are crossed...
Car will be going in to the dealer next Tuesday, and they'll throw a different immobilizer in and see if they can get the security alarm working again. They said they've had less than great results swapping out single components on the alarm, so my fingers are crossed...
If there is a fault, it is probably only one component. By the dealers statement, it sounds like they may not have the expertise to diagnose the security system.Car will be going in to the dealer next Tuesday, and they'll throw a different immobilizer in and see if they can get the security alarm working again. They said they've had less than great results swapping out single components on the alarm, so my fingers are crossed...
Michael
Michael, they are the only dealer in the state. Do you have any recommendations where I could take the car in Washington state?
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For the curious, I ended up replacing the entire alarm system. The dealer swapped out immobilizers, and the one they put in failed to start the car. That was about all the troubleshooting they could provide, which I suppose is reasonable for a service garage. Wholesale replacement was the nuke option, but I guess that's how it goes sometimes :shrug:
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