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Discussion Starter #1
Got home and the weather has finally cleared. Cleaned the car and treated the Plastic with 303 Aerospace protectant. Took it out round the block. Then decided to go visit some friend. Everything was going so good… Then, out of the blue it happened… The Engine light came on… WTF, I pulled over and turned the engine off. As hard as I tried I couldn’t remember what that light meant. Restarted the car, the light once again stayed lite. Everything seemed fine, oil pressure… CHECK… Temp gauge… CHECK… Engine sounded fine, if it wasn’t for that dam light I would have never had suspected there was a problem. Needless to say my journey was scrubbed. Upon return home I scanned the manual. Page 49 explained that the engine light (Lotus speak: Engine Malfunction Indicator Lamp) lights when it detects a fault that may increase the amount of noxious emission produced by the car. When this light comes on the ECU imposes operational limits on the engine… Whatever that means.

Apparently having the light stay lit is not something that requires emergency action, however a flashing light is much more serious.

Has anyone else experienced this problem? My luck the car will go into the shop for the duration of the weekend and be returned just in time for the next stretch of bad weather.
 

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Derek:

Good to meet you at the dealership. You've got great taste in color choice! ;)

Sorry to hear about your problem. :(

I haven't had that problem. I've had 2 other problems thus far:

- On the pre-delivery inspection, there was a parking bulb out in the front headlamp assembly. It was replaced before I took the car, but I realized on the drive home that the clear cover wasn't re-seated properly, and it was POURING for an hour, so I suspect water got into the headlamp assembly. It's been pouring off and on ever since, and I don't know when I can get under the car to take it apart, dry it out, and tighten it down properly.

- The alarm is over-sensitive. I think it rang ALL NIGHT in the rainstorm. I can't hear it from my house, but the neighbors sure can -- that thing is LOUD.

Other than that, I'm incredibly impressed with the build quality. Quality materials, well put together. The car is sold as a brick, even over nasty pavement.

Keep us informed on your repair.

Neil
 

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shay2nak
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it could be the exhaust manifold or an oxygen sensor. My civic was recently serviced for this under warranty. My check engine light came on, I took it to Honda and they replaced my manifold and i think a rotor, whatever that is. Not brake rotor. I'm not sure about the sensor. My dad took the car to the shop so i'm not sure of the details, however i researched online and many civic owners had this problem.

The whole time my light was on the car was the same as it always was, like yours. I didn't have any restrictions on engine performance (i had SOHC non VTEC). Maybe the ECU will prevent you from going over 6200 rpm and into the 2nd cam.

hope this helps
 

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Why is Lotus even bothering to deliver Elises to places where it rains in July??? :no:

Send them all to sunny southern California. It was 88 with clear skies as I passed through the San Fernando Valley on the way home from work. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
atyclb said:
seems like some of the early 111R's were having the same problem
Really! Any links?

PS: Pinmagic sorry to hear about you problems, hope you get them sorted soon.
 

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It could be as simple as the gas cap not being on tight. Don't worry. Take it to the dealer and have them check the code. It will pinpoint the sensor that sounded the alarm (or did not respond to a wakeup call). If you like, take it to another garage. The OBDII connector is standard.

Ara
 

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Ara said:
The OBDII connector is standard.
There are a number of OBDC2 connectors in use in the US. IIRC it's four. I don't know which version the Elise uses, but I'd guess it's the standard used by most Japanese cars.

Well worth getting a code puller of some kind.The setup I bought for $80 online has cleared and explained many CEL's in a number of cars over the last few years.

Loose gas cap is a popular one. Did you click it a few times when tightening? After three starts the light may go away (as is the case with Subaru's).


Paul
 

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Snowphun said:
There are a number of OBDC2 connectors in use in the US. IIRC it's four. I don't know which version the Elise uses, but I'd guess it's the standard used by most Japanese cars.

Well worth getting a code puller of some kind.The setup I bought for $80 online has cleared and explained many CEL's in a number of cars over the last few years.
Do they sell one that connects to most popular connectors? Or are there adapters?
 

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Randy Chase said:
Do they sell one that connects to most popular connectors? Or are there adapters?
According to everthing I have read, OBDII connectors are standard in the USA after 1996.

Here is the unit I use ...

http://www.davisnet.com/drive/products/drive_product.asp?pnum=8220
http://www.davisnet.com/drive/products/carchip_products.asp

There are more sophisticated packages out there, but they are not as portable. The feature rich models typically consist of a Microsoft Windows based software package and a DB-9 to ODBII (serial) cable.
 

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If your dealer isn't close, you can always stop at an AutoZone. They pull codes for free, so at least you know what the problem is.
 

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I got a CEL on my Miata due to water running down into the spark plug wells and shorting the plugs.

Since you say the car's been drenched since you took delivery, maybe that could be it. On the other hand, when I had that problem, the engine ran rough. You say yours seems to be running fine.
 

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Afraid I can't help on the light but the alarm sounds like a fairly common problem with new Elises assuming your alarm is the same as the UK one.

If the alarm has an interior intrusion microwave sensor then the sensitivity of this can be adjusted. The dealer should have done this but may not have known as they are a bit inexperienced at the moment. If it is set too sensitive rain or wind moving the soft roof can set the alarm off. A couple of people in the UK have had there home microwave cooker set off the alarm due to its sensitivity even if the car is parked 30ft from the kitchen with a wall between the car and cooker.
To adjust the sensitivity there is a small screw on the microwave sensor. The microwave sensor is on the bulkhead between the seats at about elbow level when sat in the car.
 

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Randy Chase said:
Do they sell one that connects to most popular connectors? Or are there adapters?
I use a pretty sophisticated device:



true, it's a bit complicated, but once you figure it out, it does the job well.

hehe. Actually, I've never had to do work on a car that had ODB-II, maybe the paper clip trick doesn't work anymore?
 

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Bummer about the light Derek. Don't be too worried -- most of what that light is for is emissions-stuff, like others have said.

Bet you wish you had one of these right about now:


If you were near San Diego, I'd offer to read/reset the code for you..
 

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A piece of black electrical tape over the pesky light should work like a charm
 

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I did the electrical tape once to get a crappy Aerostar van through the Colorado emissions tests. It did work like a charm!

On a more serious note-sorry for your problem. That bites. My only problem was I had this occasional BEEP from time to time while driving. It would seem to just happen randomly, with no lights. I believe I found the problem, though. It seems the rear deck was signaling not closed all the way. After I stuffed items in the trunk down a bit more so they were'nt contacting the lid, and pushed the lid shut tight, the beeping quit. I may need to adjust the height of the sensor switch, or superglue an extention on it or something.
 

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what ARA said... typically the engine warning "on" light means an emissions issue on newer cars (older cars it could be engine tune issue) and yes, if its a critical warning, the light flashes, the code typically only stays stored for something around 50 starts, and then the light will go out - gas cap/fume recirculation is a common fault.
 
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