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Discussion Starter #1
I need to do a brake job on the Elise and I'm looking for someone with experience with the DiscNOIR rotors. The cost makes them very attractive but I'm not sure if they are any good.

I'm not a total track rat but I do some light autox and aggressive street driving. I was also looking at the UltraDISC but is the extra 1k really worth it?

I'm going stick with the stock pads since they offer good performance and no noise.
 

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I have them. Nothing to complain about. Any issues I have are pad related, and only superficial.
 

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I need to do a brake job on the Elise and I'm looking for someone with experience with the DiscNOIR rotors. The cost makes them very attractive but I'm not sure if they are any good.

I'm not a total track rat but I do some light autox and aggressive street driving. I was also looking at the UltraDISC but is the extra 1k really worth it?

I'm going stick with the stock pads since they offer good performance and no noise.
The unsprung weight savings is great with the ULTRAdisc but you may not really get the benefit. We've sold many sets of the discNOIR with great feedback. Check out the Pagid 4-2 that we offer. They are slightly more aggressive than stock and priced very well as a great alternative to stock. I think you will be pleased - especially when you are hauling Xmas trees...:D
 

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I need to do a brake job on the Elise and I'm looking for someone with experience with the DiscNOIR rotors. The cost makes them very attractive but I'm not sure if they are any good.

I'm not a total track rat but I do some light autox and aggressive street driving. I was also looking at the UltraDISC but is the extra 1k really worth it?

I'm going stick with the stock pads since they offer good performance and no noise.
I have them with Porterfield R4-S and so far no problems other than they squeal like CRAZY, was told that the noise would go away after 500 miles with R4's pads installed but no luck, 1,500 miles after wards and they are still squealing like crazy...
 

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I have a set of them along with the Porterfield R4-S pads and have tracked them as well as street driving and have had no issues with them. You might want to take a bit of light sand paper to the friction surface before installing them to remove the coating. I didn't do this and it was a bit terrifying the brakes didn't want to work untill the coating wore off. Now they are great.
 

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I have a set of them along with the Porterfield R4-S pads and have tracked them as well as street driving and have had no issues with them. You might want to take a bit of light sand paper to the friction surface before installing them to remove the coating. I didn't do this and it was a bit terrifying the brakes didn't want to work untill the coating wore off. Now they are great.
Did yours stop squealing after you used the sand paper?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The unsprung weight savings is great with the ULTRAdisc but you may not really get the benefit. We've sold many sets of the discNOIR with great feedback. Check out the Pagid 4-2 that we offer. They are slightly more aggressive than stock and priced very well as a great alternative to stock. I think you will be pleased - especially when you are hauling Xmas trees...:D
Question is are they as quite as stock? I hate squeeling brakes.
 

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bedding the new pads/rotors will eliminate the noise, increase initial brake response and remove the coating.
Do a series of moderately hard 50-5 mph stops until the brakes get nice and hot. Drive for a while until they cool down. Do not apply brakes when car is stationary until the brakes are cooled.
 

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I purchased the DiskNOIR's along with the Porterfield R4-S pads back in January for my aggressive street driving habits and upcoming "light" track days and have been quite pleased with the performance. I experienced NO squealing at all but maybe thats due to a proper bedding job after I installed them. All and all I think their a great alternative, well priced and backed by a company (in my opinion) you can actually trust!
 

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...All and all I think their a great alternative, well priced and backed by a company (in my opinion) you can actually trust!
James, thx for the kind words! We feel the discNOIRs have been a great alternative and happy clients, like yourself, have proven it to us.
 

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Did yours stop squealing after you used the sand paper?
Never have had any squealing just the issue with the brakes not grabbing untill the coating wore off. I did do a proper bedding in of the brakes and they have been great even on the track.
 

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I have the noir, and pagid pads, and they squeeel at speeds of less than 10mph, so they always squeeel at stop lights. I hate it!. The brakes work great though.
 

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Never have had any squealing just the issue with the brakes not grabbing untill the coating wore off. I did do a proper bedding in of the brakes and they have been great even on the track.
What would be considered the proper bedding procedure? or which process did you follow?

Thanks
 

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Instructions for bedding in your brakes
1.From a speed of 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
2.Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit there with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration, uneven braking, and even ruin the rotors.
3.The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.
4. After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need about 5 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.
5. If race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction 01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph.
6. After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
7. After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.
PAGID Racing

Why bedding?

* To transfer a layer of friction material onto the brake disc faces to achieve maximum performance.
* To stabilize compressible materials to avoid a spongy pedal.
* To boil off volatile elements in the friction compound in order to have the initial ‘green’ fading during bedding and not during the race.
* To align the pad surface with the brake disc surface to have full contact.

If pads do not get bedded properly and / or used too hard right out of the box will likely lead to pad glazing. Pad glazing is a condition where the resins in the pad crystallize on both, the pad friction surface and the brake disc surface, resulting in poor stopping performance, brake judder and vibrations.
Also rapidly escaping volatile elements and moisture from the resin would seek an immediate escape route out of the friction compound, creating small fissures that would lead shortly to cracking and chunking.

1.) BASIC BEDDING IN
To initiate some heat in the brake discs and pads.

* 4 to 6 stops with medium brake pressure from approximately 150 km/h (90 MPH) to approximately 80 km/h (50 MPH).
* Distance between each brake stop approximately 300 - 400 meters (300 to 400 yards).
* The pads should not reach temperatures above 400° Centigrade (550° Fahrenheit).
* No dragging!
* Blocking of the air ducts might be helpful to reach appropriate temperatures quicker.


2.) IMMEDIATELY AFTER BASIC BEDDING IN AT HIGH SPEED
Simulating race conditions

* One stop with medium to heavy brake pressure, without allowing brakes to lock from approximately 180 km/h (110 MPH) to approximately 80 km/h (50 MPH).
* No dragging!
* Recovery stops with light brake pressure 3 to 4 times. (Cleaning procedure)
* Repeat the high-speed stops including recovery stops 2 to 3 times.
* Allow a cool-off distance of approximately 500 m (500 yards) between high-speed stops.
 

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What would be considered the proper bedding procedure? or which process did you follow?

Thanks
I did the manufacturer recomended beddin procedure from their website. See IamBatman's post. I did not do the high speed procedure unfortunatly there really is no safe place to do it around where I live. I have to make sure that I schedule my brake jobs so I can take the car out late at night to bed in the brakes otherwhise I would be causing accidents.
 

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The unsprung weight savings is great with the ULTRAdisc but you may not really get the benefit. We've sold many sets of the discNOIR with great feedback. Check out the Pagid 4-2 that we offer. They are slightly more aggressive than stock and priced very well as a great alternative to stock. I think you will be pleased - especially when you are hauling Xmas trees...:D

Hey Shinoo - What about R4-2 blues for cars running the 4-piston front AP Racing ('big brake") calipers? Notice you have the above in your clearance bin area. Any such deals for both fronts and rears?

TIA,
-Grant
 

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Hey Shinoo - What about R4-2 blues for cars running the 4-piston front AP Racing ('big brake") calipers? Notice you have the above in your clearance bin area. Any such deals for both fronts and rears?

TIA,
-Grant
The stock Mintex pads have been a great solution for most with the AP BBK. We sell RS-14 as an aggressive upgrade. I can probably get the 4-2. Contact me direct if you would like them.
 
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