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My resistor pack went out and it's been 6 months with no AC lol I will tackle this job maybe in a month... Summer is coming lol

-Law
 

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Steps to get to resistor if not going throught the footwell
1. Evac the R134
2. remove front clam
3. remove HVAC components
4. fix resistor
5. place HVAC components back
6. put clam back on
7. recharge R134

Do we have to remove the coolant at all?
 

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In the process of doing this, so I'll answer my own question. No need to drain the coolant to do this. You actually lose very little coolant, maybe 1/2 a cup's worth. I did plug the pipe up with saran wrap and rubber bands to temporarily seal. I didn't leave the metal pipe open to continue dripping.
 

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The actual coolant will spit, sputter, and quickly evaporate. If anything is left to drip out that is probably oil.
 

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In the process of doing this, so I'll answer my own question. No need to drain the coolant to do this. You actually lose very little coolant, maybe 1/2 a cup's worth. I did plug the pipe up with saran wrap and rubber bands to temporarily seal. I didn't leave the metal pipe open to continue dripping.
Did you disconnect the radiator or just lift it out of the way? I haven't gone in there yet...
 

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No need to mess with the rad at all for this. The coolant lines that need to be disconnected are the ones to the heater core

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hi, question about recharging system. ac lines are apart and capped. Will recharge with .55kg/19.4oz R134a and manifold gauges to check pressure. Do I add a separate amount of oil into the low side with the white can of PAG46? I'm changing out the drier and manual says it needs 30cm^3 of oil. How do I gauge/measure that amount to put in? Or how much do I have to add to the system total.



View attachment hvac.pdf


Also using new o rings. I'm assuming to lube them in the PAG46 oil seen below in the black container.



and any tips/advice on recharging will be appreciated, thanks
 

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did more research and I think i got it. Someone could confirm.

30 cubic cm = 1 oz. So I will use the black container above and pour in 1 oz of pag46 into the IN-port on the drier and quickly hook it up and seal the ac system.

10 cubic cm = .33 oz which is needed for any major tubes if I were to flush the old oil out beforehand.

I could also add oil to the condensor and evaporator if I were to flush those out too.

Since I'm reparing the resistors and my ac system was in good working order beforehand, I could just replace the drier and add oil to it. Not flush out the rest of the system out and not add oil to the rest of the system.

And no need to use the above white can of pag46
 

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I am not an expert but did just perform this job utilizing information from this forum. The drier is only a $27 Napa part. I would definitely recommend replacing it while you're in there. I did it as last step before reinstalling the front clam.
Does anyone know what part number the drier is? NAPA has no cross reference for Lotus.
 

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Below is the wiring diagram for connecting the resistors. I choose to mount the resistors to a small aluminum panel and bolt it next to the fuse block. The wires are simply soldered to the resistor ends. Once everything was completed I actually got much higher airflow from the blower motor because of the larger primary wiring and good connections.
What is the reason that 2) 0.27 ohm resistors are not used? Is it just due to the Wattage? I would think 2) 100W 0.27 ohm resistors would work, correct?
 

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mouser has a substitute part available:
71-RH50-0.05
71-RH50-0.27
Something is not right on the mouser website. Look up manufacturer part number RH050R0500FC02 (71-RH50-0.05). At the top of the page in the description section it says "Wirewound Resistors - Chassis Mount 50watts 0.05ohms 1%", which is fine and dandy because that's exactly what we want (according to post #53 in this thread). But then in the specifications page it says "Resistance: 500 mOhms". 0.05ohms == 50 milliohms not 500!!

So I don't know which number to believe - the description or the spec. Is this a typo on mouser? All you EE guys are insane - software is so much less frustrating!
 

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All you EE guys are insane - software is so much less frustrating!
That's why you get the EE degree and then go into software. Someone needs to keep an eye on all these guys that think they can program!

I ordered these parts from Mouser and all is working fine:

Mouser #: 71-RH50-0.15
Mouser #: 71-RH50-0.1
Mouser #: 71-RH50-0.27
 

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I have confirmed that mouser has a typo and I submitted a suggestion for them to fix it. The 71-RH50-0.05 really is 0.05 ohms (50 milliohms).

One thing I'm confused on still...

Rob mentioned: "The new resistors were not mounted in the original position as there is no good reason to leave them there. The resistors were instead mounted next to the fuse panel for easy access."

Isn't the fuse panel out of the path of the blower where the fuses could get hot and overheat? The super expensive kit (A120P0148S) relocates the resistors inside of the heaterbox to avoid overheating. Where are you guys mounting them???

Also, does anyone know what part number is on the drier/dryer?
 

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I PM'ed someone on here who had it by the fuse box in the hot temps of AZ with no issues. I wanted some cooling effect so placed it behind the passenger side front oil cooler in the wheel well. the small right front grill provides outside air. However I sold the elise so don't know how well it worked.

NAPA, #208312 Drier

it's a challenging DIY but rewarding when all is done
 

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I got them quick but when I tested the blower I realized I only full power is not working. Then people on here said there's not much difference from 2 or 3.

I don't wanna dig in anymore, ill take #2 besides it will be heat soon haha'

Guess these parts go on the someday shelf '


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