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Hey, you forgot to tell us how to separate the door handle pull mechanism.
I have had my door apart for soundproofing, but never could separate it completely from the car.

I need to fix my drivers side door that does not unlock from the inside, and my passenger side door handle feels "junky" from the outside.

Would love a door mechanism rebuild thread to go with this.
tip: loosen your door button.
 

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My alignment on my driverside window seems to be off. Everytime I try to open it when its hot outside it seems to rub against something. Going to try to take the door panel off and see whats going on inside. Thanks again for the writeup!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Here is how to remove the outside door handle from the door. This exercise should show you how the door handle works so you could adjust or tighten your loose door handle.
 

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Galactic Hitchhiker
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Thanks so much, khoa! Gargantuan help there.

I've got a few adds from my 2014 S with premium pack sport:

Be sure and catch the two phillips heads hiding under the rubber skirt here before pulling the vent plate off:


Also, I've stolen EFE EVS's idea and replaced all of my interior lights with green LED's. Maybe it's a MY14 thing, or just a premium pack sport thing, but my footwell and door lights were adhesive LED strips instead of festoons.

Replacing the door strips required removing the part of the door panel that hides the lights:

Remove the two bolts that are under the vent plate:
(when replacing, do not cover the hole noted by the red arrow)


Remove the two small phillips heads at the other end:


Remove the three slightly larger phillips heads in between and the panel pulls right off (no velcro or double-sided tape):
(Don't worry about the rivets; they hold the channel that the LED strips stick to)


Relatively easy/cheap mod that came out pretty cool, I think. Goes great with the BRG exterior. (The color is a bit weak on the cameraphone, of course :shrug: )

LED strip lights also came from superbrightleds 24" strips for each door, and 8" strips for under each footwell. If you're going to do this, definitely get the clamp on pigtails to power the strips, as you won't be able to re-use the old ones.




Cheers!

Derek
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Derek, your LED looks beautiful. I will put this upgrade in my future plan.

Be sure and catch the two phillips heads hiding under the rubber skirt here before pulling the vent plate off:
I also have these 2 phillips srews on my 13; however, I found that I don't need to take them out since the screws are short and only hold the rubber to the plate.
 

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Galactic Hitchhiker
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Mine were through the plate and holding it to the door panel behind. I had to back them out quite a bit to get it loose.

Maybe they lengthened the screws for the '14? (or the tech who built mine grabbed screws from the wrong tray!) :shrug:

Thanks for the compliment.. (and to EFE EVS for the idea). I'm happy with it as well, I just wish I could get to the speedo/tach backlight as well. The Service Notes say "The I.P. (Instrument Pack) is a sealed non-serviceable unit" though.. I'm not curious enough to see exactly how sealed it is to go yanking the dash apart to that extent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
My interior door handle pull has become loose and I think I just need to do the first step in the instructions and tighten the screws but before I try it - is there any trick to getting off the interior door pull?
You would need to remove the panel; I don't think there is any quick/easy trick.
 

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My window is not working

Hi everyone. My window on the driver side is not going up. When I was putting it up there was a pop sound and then it is not working.. I can hear the motor working but the window is not going up. Anyone knows what this can be? Thanks!:frown2:
 

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Does anyone else not have that plastic plate inside? Mine has a foam rubber 'mat' of sorts that is glued in place there, no plastic cover. There's just a hole in the foam where the door handle cable goes through.

How does one get at the door latch mechanism? I was expecting some sort of access to the latch & door pin mechanism, but I don't really see any way to get at it behind the foam rubber (which I had to just rip off).



Lotus' version of water proofing?
 

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The early MY Evoras have the foam "cover". In 12+, they replaced it with a nice plastic cover, with a hole in it for the cable. I believe the change was introduced when they switched to the Inteva latch system.

I've retrofit the 12+ plastic covers on mine.

Lotus calls them "Door Curtains".

A132B4231F - LH
A132B4232F - RH

A100B6207F - Door Curtain beading (sealant/adhesive)

I just used 3M VHB around the edges, and a small amount of RTV to keep water inside the door.

To get to the latch, you have to remove the foam. It also helps to have the window up.
 

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My drivers door handle on the inside stopped working. I kept having to roll the window down to open the door from the outside. Once I took the door apart I found that the nuts that hold the release wire sleeve (for lack of a better term) had come loose. I adjusted it, tightened the nuts and all is well. Mine came all the way off to where I had to put a bucket under it to prop it up so it wouldn't damage the wiring to the window switches. Note it comes off much easier if you take the manual door lock button off as well.
this happened to me, I need to do this too ...
 

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So each time you access this area it's a re-sealing event with adhesive. That's good to know. I expected some sort of re-usable rubber seal or such.
That's probably a better idea. Maybe next time I remove that door curtain I'll try and find some headlight sealant. That stuff stays sticky for a long time and is reusable and waterproof.
 

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Yup, that sounds perfect for the job. I just ordered the panel from DeRoure, see how long it takes to get here, and pick some of that up. Maybe I'll add some velcro straps to the 'outside' to help keep it secure and let the sealant just be a seal. Does the handle pull cable for our non-Inteva latch fit into the pre-made hole, or did you have to modify it?
 

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Yup, that sounds perfect for the job. I just ordered the panel from DeRoure, see how long it takes to get here, and pick some of that up. Maybe I'll add some velcro straps to the 'outside' to help keep it secure and let the sealant just be a seal. Does the handle pull cable for our non-Inteva latch fit into the pre-made hole, or did you have to modify it?
The hole isn't in the ideal spot for the non-Inteva cable, so I drilled a separate hole above that one to pass the cable through, and taped over the stock hole.
 

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I just had my door panel off and it is exactly the same (MY11). I had to remove the foam cover. In some places it came off nicely and in others it is bonded like you wouldn't believe. I also have the plastic bags zip-tied over the wiring harness connections.
 

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Keep in mind that the door curtain is a critical component in keeping water inside the door, where it can drain at the bottom, both front and back corners. The reason I upgraded was because the foam ones were torn after the first removal, and after washes and rain, I discovered that they were leaking water into the backside of the door panel, which neatly dribbles it onto the door sill and into the car.

If you never get your cars wet, it's a moot issue. But just something to be aware of.
 
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