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likes to drive fast
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Discussion Starter #1
Haven't seen a thread. So I have decided to put together a simple one.

PLEASE NOTE: I am not liable for your DIY. Do this at your own risk. Just take care of yourself when you work on an automobile.

Tools/Parts needed:

1. 10mm socket
2. 3/8" ratchet
3. 1/2" ratchet
4. 1/2" to 3/8" adapters, 3/8" extension, 1/2" extension as needed
5. AST oil cap removal tool. TOY 640. Get this from Amazon. See pic below.
5a. If you use 5, you need a 24mm socket.
6. Toyota oil filter 04152-YZZA1 or Lotus A132E6399S. Should come with 2 o-rings, a plastic funnel, and the filter. See pic below.
7. Toyota oil drain gasket 90430-12031 or Lotus A120E6461S
8. 5w40 oil about 6 liters or 6 quarts depending on brand of oil. 1 liter = 1.06 quart.
9. Oil funnel for filling oil. You need to have this.
10. Beer.





Get the rear side of the car on a pair of ramps.

Get under the rear of the car and locate 19 pieces of this bolt. Be patient. Use a 10mm socket and remove them.



Remove the aluminium cover and set aside.

Locate the drain plug and oil filter housing. The housing is slightly hidden behind the sump towards front of the car, behind the passenger side.



Grab a tray and loosen the drain plug slowly. Let oil flow out onto the tray. Might take a while.

When this is done, replace the gasket and tighten the drain plug. Not sure about torque spec. Just hand tight. Do not over torque the plug.

The oil filter housing has a smaller oil cap that can be removed using a 3/8" ratchet. This cap is to ease the oil drain process from the housing by using the plastic funnel supplied in the oil filter kit.



I didn't use this. I went straight for the larger oil cap. The AST TOY 640 is a perfect fit. It can be loosen using a 24mm socket. As you loosen the oil cap, do it slowly, and let the oil mess drip down.



Once the large oil cap is removed, you can see where the larger o-ring is. Replace this with the new o-ring. Make sure you lubricate the new o-ring first.There is even a notch for you to pry out the old o-ring easily.

Replace oil filter.



If you want, you can replace the smaller o-ring located inside the smaller oil cap. Make sure you lubricate the new o-ring first. Replace the smaller oil cap. Torque spec is 13 Nm or hand tight is good.



Clean the oil filtering housing of any debris. Reinstall the large oil cap using AST TOY640. Torque to about 25+/-5 Nm.



Now, the bit about filling oil.

Ideally I want to fill oil when the car is leveled. But now that it's on the ramp, it's a two-person job to roll the car off the ramp without starting the engine.

Evora tech doc says the engine uses about 6.1 liters. Depending on which brand of oil you get, you might end up with a 5L or 5 quart jug. I have a 5L jug and 1 L bottle. I recommend putting in the jug of oil first.

The oil filler cap is located at really awkward angle. Hence you really need an oil funnel. Even so, filling oil when the car is on the ramp proves to be a balancing act. As you can see, the hatch shock can be in the way of pouring oil from the bottle. With the car on the ramps, I ended up adding oil from the passenger's rear quarter panel, while pouring oil into the funnel and making sure the funnel doesn't topple over. Make sure the end of the funnel is INSIDE the oil filler cavity ALL THE TIME. You don't want want to be filling oil and all the oil ended up dripping down to the engine.




Replace the oil filler cap. Start the car. Let idle. Check for leaks. Shut off car. Don't bother checking the oil level yet since car is still on the ramps.

Replace aluminum cover. Install all 19 bolts. Make sure each bolt is tight. Start engine and drive it off the ramp. Let the oil settle a bit before checking the level. For me, I added another 0.5L. In all, I only use 5.5L (5.81 quarts).

Drive the car around the block. Check the oil level again.

Park car. Drink beer and admire car. :popcorn:
 

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Premium Member
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Thanx ALP> Different filter than I'm used to but besides that, same routine as with our Eliges. BEER IS A MOST CRITICAL LUBRICANT!!
 

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Lotus branded filter: $33 shipped
Toyota branded filter: $6 shipped

This made me chuckle when I ordered my first one.
 

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You did a great job giving us the DIY instructions needed. I just did my own oil and filter change a couple of month's ago. I too did not use the plastic drain that has to be forced into the bottom of the oil filter housing. I also ordered and used the AST TOY 640 socket that grabs the cannister easily and tightly. You stated it correctly, to oil (lubricate) the new oil ring when you replace it since it is the new gasket to prevent the oil from leaking out ... I was a little bit scared of the o-ring and the canister but soon realized that they are the way of the future and alot of the new cars are all canister- oil ring types. NOT spin on filters that are so easy to use.

Thanks again for the photos and instructions. Great work.
 

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Disciple of Chapman
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1,620 Posts
great write up. My dealer quoted me $400 for a oil change-eek-
With this write up I can do the job myself with confidence.
+1 for you
 

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Awesome write-up! I'll file it away for the future. It looks like a fairly easy job. Btw, I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but can doing your own oil changes while under warranty lead to any potential "disagreements" warranty wise down the road should something hiccup?
 

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NO. I haven't let a dealer change my oil except my BMW's cuz it is "free" for as long as I've been driving. NO affect on your warranty as long as you keep a record somehow.
 

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great info - will be doing mine shortly, thanks again
 

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I called the Dealer and asked the same question about the Warranty issue if I did the Oil Change and Filter for my 1000 mile change. He told go ahead and just keep it documented as was stated earlier.

I went to AutoZone and got a WIX oil filter # 57047. It comes with a small instruction sheet inside the box and all that was needed to do the change. I justed asked for a 2011 Toyota Camry filter and this was stated to me to be the best they had. Good luck.
 

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DIY Air Filter

Thanks for the oil change writeup. I was a DIYer for the six years I had the Elise.

Would like to see a similar photo DIY for the air filter. With all of the boxes/hoses I'll be getting a shop manual.

The other routine maintenance task I did was replacing the brake/hydraulic clutch fluid once a year. I wonder if the IPS transmission has a similar bleed nipple?
 

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Nice photos, thanks for taking the time to post them.

Many of the Toyota people will peen or Locktite the drain plug into the filter housing, with the result that the filter housing can be removed with a bare 3/8" ratchet. Apparently the special tools are known to slip, particularly the cheap ones you find at your local auto parts place.

There's also a different flavor of special tool that looks like it would eliminate any chance of slippage, and as a bonus would take up less space in the toolbox.

I don't have a strong opinion about this, just posting alternate ideas that I came across during some idle Googling.

(Speaking of strong opinions, here's a side note to any of my fellow cheapskates who may be reading this. Please don't read this note if you are inclined to argue about things like motor oil in Camry motors. I picked up 6 liters of the correct grade of full-synthetic Shell Rotella, the oil filter, and the engine air filter for the Evora at Wal-Mart. Total cost: cheap! So now when those 'vette drivers ask me "where you gonna buy parts fer that?", I'll tell them that Wal-Mart stocks Lotus parts.)
 

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likes to drive fast
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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the replies!

west: yes the autozone/pepboys oil filter cap tool is usually quite filmsy. The AST tool works well, though it left some very minor scuff marks the housing. I like the link of the custom tool you posted.
 
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