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Discussion Starter #1
Just recently purchased a 2014 Evora S and am looking into getting an extended warranty. Does anyone have any recommendations?

Also, I drove this car for less than 1000 miles and the clutch completely went out and it's in the shop now getting replaced... my heart hurts 馃槶
 

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Can't help on the warranty front, but was it the clutch itself that went, or just the master cylinder? I find it odd that a PPI would not have exposed a severely worn clutch, as something that close to failure should have shown signs of slippage.
 

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2011 Evora NA 6sp
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Not sure which car you have, but look into putting a 430 clutch in for future proof. But as mentioned. Was it the MC or clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Not sure which car you have, but look into putting a 430 clutch in for future proof. But as mentioned. Was it the MC or clutch?
John Z and Agentdr thanks for responding. I'm not sure yet. The shop said they can't know exactly what it is until it's opened up. Meaning they looked as many components as they could and decided they've got to go ahead and disassemble everything to know specifically what's wrong. I'm brand new to Lotus owning so bear with me... what is a PPI?
 

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PPI= Pre-Purchase Inspection

I also can't help much on the warranty information. Aside from stating that MOST of LT Evora owner's cars have been pretty reliable with normal issues fixed while under the factory warranty. Sure, there have been some things post factory warranty (like clutch masters- a known issue, warped dashes... probably not covered as cosmetic etc.) but if you actually need a clutch job, that wouldn't be covered on a used car anyway as its a consumable.

Is your issue with loosing the clutch pedal.... going to the floor (most likely master cyl.) or the actual clutch itself?

If the shop says your clutch master went, you might want to go with an aftermarket one from:
or

It appears the aftermarket masters cylinders have been much more reliable. Also, if that was your gremlin, yearly (or at least every 2 years) brake fluid flushes and clutch slave bleed with a good quality brake fluid is a must. Plenty of master cyl info on the forum to research.

Back to the warranty.... I contemplated getting an extended warranty when my factory one was ending. I never did and I'm glad I didn't. I have had zero issues that I would have used a warranty for and would have pissed my money away. Instead, I stuck several $grand aside for any issues that might rear their ugly head. And, nothing really has. Although, as an additional safety net, I've added to that repair fund through the years to cover the cost of a major repair, like something full engine out. So far, I still have my money earning (almost no) interest. :(

Good luck on the car fix and warranty choice..
 

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2011 Evora NA 6sp
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Ppi is a pre purchase inspection.

Asfar as knowing if it's the MC or the clutch itself... If you are in 4th and floor it and the revs shoot up and the car don't go, it's a clutch. If it's the MC, it will be hard to get into gears or the pedal will be stuck on the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
PPI= Pre-Purchase Inspection

I also can't help much on the warranty information. Aside from stating that MOST of LT Evora owner's cars have been pretty reliable with normal issues fixed while under the factory warranty. Sure, there have been some things post factory warranty (like clutch masters- a known issue, warped dashes... probably not covered as cosmetic etc.) but if you actually need a clutch job, that wouldn't be covered on a used car anyway as its a consumable.

Is your issue with loosing the clutch pedal.... going to the floor (most likely master cyl.) or the actual clutch itself?

If the shop says your clutch master went, you might want to go with an aftermarket one from:
or

It appears the aftermarket masters cylinders have been much more reliable. Also, if that was your gremlin, yearly (or at least every 2 years) brake fluid flushes and clutch slave bleed with a good quality brake fluid is a must. Plenty of master cyl info on the forum to research.

Back to the warranty.... I contemplated getting an extended warranty when my factory one was ending. I never did and I'm glad I didn't. I have had zero issues that I would have used a warranty for and would have pissed my money away. Instead, I stuck several $grand aside for any issues that might rear their ugly head. And, nothing really has. Although, as an additional safety net, I've added to that repair fund through the years to cover the cost of a major repair, like something full engine out. So far, I still have my money earning (almost no) interest. :(

Good luck on the car fix and warranty choice..
Steve! Thanks so much man I appreciate that input. Super glad to hear your car hasn't given you any issues. I'm going to send these links over to the shop and see if we can make those work.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ppi is a pre purchase inspection.

Asfar as knowing if it's the MC or the clutch itself... If you are in 4th and floor it and the revs shoot up and the car don't go, it's a clutch. If it's the MC, it will be hard to get into gears or the pedal will be stuck on the floor.
John it's even worse. I'm at a dead stop, I put the car in first gear, I let the clutch all the way out... and I go nowhere at all. The car literally cannot move.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
PPI= Pre-Purchase Inspection

I also can't help much on the warranty information. Aside from stating that MOST of LT Evora owner's cars have been pretty reliable with normal issues fixed while under the factory warranty. Sure, there have been some things post factory warranty (like clutch masters- a known issue, warped dashes... probably not covered as cosmetic etc.) but if you actually need a clutch job, that wouldn't be covered on a used car anyway as its a consumable.

Is your issue with loosing the clutch pedal.... going to the floor (most likely master cyl.) or the actual clutch itself?

If the shop says your clutch master went, you might want to go with an aftermarket one from:
or

It appears the aftermarket masters cylinders have been much more reliable. Also, if that was your gremlin, yearly (or at least every 2 years) brake fluid flushes and clutch slave bleed with a good quality brake fluid is a must. Plenty of master cyl info on the forum to research.

Back to the warranty.... I contemplated getting an extended warranty when my factory one was ending. I never did and I'm glad I didn't. I have had zero issues that I would have used a warranty for and would have pissed my money away. Instead, I stuck several $grand aside for any issues that might rear their ugly head. And, nothing really has. Although, as an additional safety net, I've added to that repair fund through the years to cover the cost of a major repair, like something full engine out. So far, I still have my money earning (almost no) interest. :(

Good luck on the car fix and warranty choice..
Also the only warranty that I've found so far that will cover the Evora is from Alpha Warranty Services and it's priced at $9,000.
 

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John it's even worse. I'm at a dead stop, I put the car in first gear, I let the clutch all the way out... and I go nowhere at all. The car literally cannot move.
Does the car not stall?
 

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So you can put it in gear without needing to use the clutch?
Is it actually going into gear? Ie you havnt broken the longitude gear linkage cable. So youre actually in neutral when you think youre in gear.

That failure is different to normal clutch failure. Normally you would expect to feel/hear the clutch slipping over time. Youd also smell it and it would most likely still work though slip like crazy.
 

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Yeah, without stalling or severe burned clutch smell, I was thinking it's likely a different issue.
 

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I bet im way off with the broken cable comment as I imagine it would be as sloppy as anything. Also wouldnt select through the gears like normal.
Point being, it seems like there could be something more than clutch wear. So best to investigate what you can before pulling the engine out!

Edit: Though you probably dont care since its already getting fixed by the dealer :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I bet im way off with the broken cable comment as I imagine it would be as sloppy as anything. Also wouldnt select through the gears like normal.
Point being, it seems like there could be something more than clutch wear. So best to investigate what you can before pulling the engine out!

Edit: Though you probably dont care since its already getting fixed by the dealer :)
I definitely care, it's not getting fixed by the dealer haha. I'm not really sure how to investigate such a thing. The car was behaving a little strangely right before it broke. When I would accelerate there was a lag between the RPMs and the car actually speeding up. Kind of like the car had to catch up to the RPMs. It felt like that was happening but I wasn't actually sure so I accelerated pretty fast to see if that was what was happening... and that's when it just broke completely. I went to shift gears and when I put the shifter into the next gear... nothing happened. Couldn't accelerate and I just glided to a church parking lot and got towed to the shop from there.
There was definitely no stalling or burnt clutch smell.
 
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