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I am going to replace the dome light with a LED in my MY2012 Evora S per the earlier thread. However, I can't seem to remove the lens to get access to the bulb. I don't want to pull the entire assembly out/break it. Any tips for the best way to remove the lens? Thx
 

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I am going to replace the dome light with a LED in my MY2012 Evora S per the earlier thread. However, I can't seem to remove the lens to get access to the bulb. I don't want to pull the entire assembly out/break it. Any tips for the best way to remove the lens? Thx
Just did this on mine. Start on the driver side (center part on the side facing the driver’s window of the dome light smoke plastic housing) the clip is centered. Use a wide flat knife or body pull tool. Once you get that side pulled down the other side (Pass Side) has a harness/ plug that tucks under the assembly & headliner.

Tools.
4 Piece Nylon Pry Bar Installer Kit
 

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So I finally got around to switching out the dome light and rear license plate lights. I ordered them in the US and brought them back to Dubai with me . . . and waited till the soupiest most humid night possible to make the switch. Almost no work and I was still sweating like a pig.

Easy work, but just a couple of comments for anybody who hasn't done it:

1) I'm not sure the 42mm for the dome light and 38mm for license plate lights is correct. Either the people I ordered from lied, or the originals weren't 42 and 38mm. I had to do significant bending of the tabs because both the dome and plate lights were about 2-3mm shorter than the originals.

2) Doing this eliminates one annoying thing about the original dome light--the original glows through the roof panel and is visible from the outside because the light is emitted in 360degrees. With the LEDs, the light is emitted 180degrees down so there is no glow through the roof.

Below are some pictures of the rear plate lights with one LED installed and one original still in place . . . for comparison.

And the wonderful Dubai weather--100degrees and this breathable liquid.
 

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foot well led light replacement

I recommend removing the 3 amp footwell light fuse prior to replacing the footwell bulbs with 42mm led equivalents - I used the 6 led light versions. The connections can easily contact the aluminum bracket, blowing the fuse. Two fuses later and all is well. I even lined the aluminum bracket with electrical tape.
 

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I had the same problem as RW, kept blowing the fuse due to contact with the metal frame. However, instead of pulling the fuse, you can manually trip the door latches with a screw driver to turn the lights off. Achieves the same end result (i.e., cuts the power off to prevent shorts).
 

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or pull the plug on the side of the light fixture-it doesn't have a clip and goes back on easily (though note you can easily reverse polarity, though in my case it didn't pop anything fuse or bulb)
 

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footwell light

I had both doors closed while "standing on my head." Each footwell light turns on when its respective door is opened. I was surprised when things "started happening" when removing/replacing the lights such as the window going up/down an inch, etc.

The suggestion of pulling the connectors is excellent and would have saved much time and pain.

Making sure the connectors are pushed onto the same pin is probably a must.

The led lights have a plus and negative orientation, if it will not light, it must be reversed.
 

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Have any of you tried to replace the interior bulb(s) that illuminates the bead of light around the cabin (on the underside of the dash and door trim).
 

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Squid, those aren't bulbs. I'm pretty sure they are wired in LED strips that have to be replaced. I'm really surprised one of them went out already. Are you sure it just isn't a blown fuse/loose connection?
 

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Squid, those aren't bulbs. I'm pretty sure they are wired in LED strips that have to be replaced. I'm really surprised one of them went out already. Are you sure it just isn't a blown fuse/loose connection?
Oh no I didn't intend to say they went out.

I've looked at them closely and it appears an acrylic "lens" bead is used to illuminate the trim. The acrylic runs along the underside of the trim and are illuminated by one or more bulbs somewhere under the trim or dash. At least that's the assumption. And if those bulbs are incandescent I want to replace them with low power LEDs instead.
 

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they definitely seem to have the temp of your average LED bulb, vice incandescent. LEDs are also better point source lighting for rudimentary fiber optics like the trim illumination pieces, as that appears to be the method they use.

If I had to guess I would put my illuminated trim as about 6 or 7k, and you rarely see incandescent so cool. that and when I swapped in my new LED festoons they matched almost perfectly in color temp
 

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I had the same problem as RW, kept blowing the fuse due to contact with the metal frame. However, instead of pulling the fuse, you can manually trip the door latches with a screw driver to turn the lights off. Achieves the same end result (i.e., cuts the power off to prevent shorts).
Argh! This is exactly what happened to me. Got the passenger side bulb replaced and realized the driver side bulb was dead. In the process of trying to swap the dead bulb for an LED - while contorted like a circus freak - I blew the fuse twice. :facepalm Time to order some new fuses.
 

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One trick that helps reduce the chance of a blown fuse is to use a wooden stirrer (like the ones you can get at Starbucks ;)) to pry out the old lamp instead of a metal tool.
 

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I installed an 8-LED bulb in the dome so it would be nice and bright. GEEZ, it is way too bright. Will try a 6 and 4 LED bulb next. The 8 LED bulbs work really great in the trunk tho.
 
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