[esprit888]

Hi.
Looking at the car and pics of the Esprit it seems to me that the door handles ought to be flush with the body?
The 90 Esprit turbo SE that I was considering was the same.NOT FLUSH? The handles were inwards and not flush to the body. Are they supposed to be flush?

There should be two rubber bumpers behind the flap that make them flush ( assuming you are talking about the handle not the surround?) these go missing and are available, replacing them moves the handle flush.

Colin

 

[sleekgt]

This is what my 88's door handle looks like up close - note the 'gasket' underneath the handle that is slightly above the bodywork:

 

[MidLifeZ]

opcorn:

 

[carbuff]

There should be two rubber bumpers behind the flap that make them flush ( assuming you are talking about the handle not the surround?) these go missing and are available, replacing them moves the handle flush.

Colin

Colin,

Where can those bumpers be obtained these days? Last I knew, the ENTIRE HANDLE needed to be replaced, the bumpers themselves were not available.



++++++++++++


Another thing for Mike to check is the hinge pin at the front of each handle. I've seen these wear and allow the handle to feel loose. Definitely worth applying a drop of oil. -poke-

 

[esprit888]

Colin,

Where can those bumpers be obtained these days? Last I knew, the ENTIRE HANDLE needed to be replaced, the bumpers themselves were not available.



++++++++++++


Another thing for Mike to check is the hinge pin at the front of each handle. I've seen these wear and allow the handle to feel loose. Definitely worth applying a drop of oil. -poke-

I got mine at a local specialist hardware store, they have a box selection in various sizes, they were a little high so I shaved them down until the handle was flush. They are the same as used on commercial steel door frames to stop the door from banging when closing as these doors use auto closers.
Colin

 

[maxvelocity]

Colin,

Where can those bumpers be obtained these days? Last I knew, the ENTIRE HANDLE needed to be replaced, the bumpers themselves were not available.

They are called bumpon(s) and can be found in most hardware stores. Print out a pic at the link below and show the hardware guy if he does not know the actual name. You can razor blade them to size and come sticky back.

https://www.google.com/search?q=bum...VCcKSyAHfkoDgBA&ved=0CFgQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=629

 

[carbuff]

Sorry Cal, the ones you linked won't work. Over a short time, the bumper (bump-on) will "slide" and fall off. The handle doesn't hit it squarely.

The OE ones had a tail that fit into the hole in the handle body. They looked almost like a Norfolk Tadpole. The tail had a bump on it that was supposed to anchor it. (Think of a snake that has swallowed a mouse!)

I'll post a pic of one that I used, tonight.

 

[esprit888]

Sorry Cal, the ones you linked won't work. Over a short time, the bumper (bump-on) will "slide" and fall off. The handle doesn't hit it squarely.

The OE ones had a tail that fit into the hole in the handle body. They looked almost like a Norfolk Tadpole. The tail had a bump on it that was supposed to anchor it. (Think of a snake that has swallowed a mouse!)

I'll post a pic of one that I used, tonight.

The steel door ones have tail, just not tadpole length rotfl they look like this:

 

[sleekgt]

Hmmm - I misinterpreted what Mike was asking. But yes - the handle should be parallel to the rest of the assembly.

 

[maxvelocity]

I just used the regular black colored bumpon and the stay on for quite a while. The 3M ones have an more aggressive sticky back similar to double stick pads. They are cheap enough to replace if they should fall off.

 

[carbuff]

Attached are the pics I took tonight, couldn't find the "good" camera so used my cell phone, sorry.


The longer tadpole rotfl is the OE bumper (the head is squished from age, I had glued shims about a mm thick before I replaced them). The shorter one is the type I installed as a replacement.

The heads are 12 mm across. Head thickness needs to be 3.5 mm - 4.0 mm to position the handle parallel to the handle frame. The OE "neck" is 2.5 mm long, and the width of the retaining "shoulder" is 6 mm on both the OE piece and the replacement. Length of the tail is 12 mm on the OE bumper.

I used a drop of Krazy Glue on my replacements to make sure they would stay put. They are holding up fine after 12 years!

 

[firefighter1c57]

the ''tadpole'' tail is help in pulling them through. Look just like the brake heat shield bumpers in a MD80 BFGoodrich main wheel half... only those are red silicon rubber instead of black synthetic, or natural, or whatever they are rubber.

 

[carbuff]

Old Topic, but while SEARCHING for one of my Aussie friends, found these:

https://www.musclecarcentral.com/1964-1969-Chevelle-Ash-Tray-Rubber-Bump-Stops-Pr-p/wea-60-ch.htm

I may order a couple, just to have! :bow:

 

[sleekgt]

Old Topic, but while SEARCHING for one of my Aussie friends, found these:

[snip]

I may order a couple, just to have! :bow:

No need to explain - totally know what you mean.

I'm going to order some too. >

 

[carbuff]

Remember, we don't know exactly what size they are. They might fit the door handles... might not.

 

[Beerman]

Considering these door handles were sourced from the BL 70's parts bin....and used mostly on Austin Marina's...I wouldn't expect the fit/finish to be too high. That said, you can replace the bump stops every couple years and keep the handle roughly in line fore/aft....

 

[jtrealty]

The "tail" is to pull them through, the ones with a hole in them and no "tail" use a blunt punch type tool to insert them into the hole. The ones that stick on do eventually fall off especially if they are not hit square on and are not made for exterior use. As mentioned you can always slice a little off with a razor blade if they are too tall. They come in all shapes and sizes so if you know what you need you will find it if you search the internet.
David Teitelbaum