[Ravenred]

My drivers side door window isn't sealing correctly, has anyone else had this problem or know what's messed up? I can kinda shake the window with the door open and reclose the door and it will fix itself, but it always gets off track again.

do you mean it's not indexing? if so, mine was that way and it needed a internal door switch....which of course was under warranty and they replaced...

 

[Dylan]

I am assuming the window is not going down a little when you open the door, so when you close it, it is sitting on top of the sealer. Try lowering the window all the way and holding the switch in the down position for a few seconds, then raise it. Open the door, and see if it goes down a little, and rises when you shut the door. If not, try this again (and see if it's working correctly on the passenger side, and if not, try the same thing) and if still not, you can try disconnecting the battery and then performing this procedure again. If no luck, you may indeed have a faulty switch.

 

[liquidsilver]

no it still does the little up and down to seal. the window is actually out of place its sitting too far back and makes a gap. I will try and take a better pic.

 

[ScottN]

My driver side window did not seal correct for 2 reasons.
- the window seal on top of the door (bottom of the window) was "warped" and replaced.
- there is a "tilt" adjustment that was out of alignment that guides the window on the correct angle.

 

[tbd_Evora]

Sounds like the window alignment needs alignment. From the Service Notes:


Door glass adjustment
To provide optimum weather sealing, several adjustments are available to position the glass correctly, with sufficient weatherstrip seal loading.

Glass top edge alignment: When fully raised, the glass top edge needs to be aligned to the roof and cant rail seal. If adjustment is required, the door trim panel and membrane must first be removed for access (see subsection VE.2). The glass is secured to the carriage plate by two rubber lined clamps; release the two clamp nuts, re-position the glass as necessary and re-tighten.

Glass height adjustment: An adjustable upstop buffer screw is mouted on the carriage plate, which abuts against a flange at the top of the window lift channel to limit upward travel of the glass. Complete but light contact between the fully raised glass and cant rail seal is required.

Glass inward tilt: The inward tilt of the glass may be adjusted by screw theaded anchorages for the bottom ends of the two guide rails. These are accessible with the trim panel fitted. Light contact with the weatherstrip seals is required.

 

[liquidsilver]

The glass is not laying flush with the rear glass. I tried to show this by showing I can put my finger up against it and halfway under the glass. The window actually gets off track each time you open the door you have to push down on the angled part of the glass before you close the door to realign it so it will seal correctly. Its like its slightly loose on the track inside the door. I don't have a dealer anywhere close to me so I will be fixing this on my own and was hoping someone else had this problem and knew if there were parts that need to be replaced inside the door or if its just out of whack on the track. Id like to have what I need for repair before I tear into the door. thanks!

 

[liquidsilver]

Sounds like the window alignment needs alignment. From the Service Notes:


Door glass adjustment
To provide optimum weather sealing, several adjustments are available to position the glass correctly, with sufficient weatherstrip seal loading.

Glass top edge alignment: When fully raised, the glass top edge needs to be aligned to the roof and cant rail seal. If adjustment is required, the door trim panel and membrane must first be removed for access (see subsection VE.2). The glass is secured to the carriage plate by two rubber lined clamps; release the two clamp nuts, re-position the glass as necessary and re-tighten.

Glass height adjustment: An adjustable upstop buffer screw is mouted on the carriage plate, which abuts against a flange at the top of the window lift channel to limit upward travel of the glass. Complete but light contact between the fully raised glass and cant rail seal is required.

Glass inward tilt: The inward tilt of the glass may be adjusted by screw theaded anchorages for the bottom ends of the two guide rails. These are accessible with the trim panel fitted. Light contact with the weatherstrip seals is required.

sounds like it just needs an alignment then. thank you!

 

[liquidsilver]

is there a diy of taking the interior door trim off on the forums?

 

[James33]

PLEASE post photos of your adventure into the door - A DIY or simple write up with a few pics would help us all.

 

[tbd_Evora]

Again from the service notes:

The door trim panel is secured to the door shell by the door pull handle fixings, five screws along the bottom shutface, a single screw at the top front corner, and three location pegs along the top edge. Note that the door speaker grille is fixed to the door panel, but the speaker itself is mounted to the door shell.

To remove/refit door trim panel
1. Prise out the window and mirror switches and unplug the harness connector.
2. Remove the door front top corner closing panel:
- Prise out the two fir tree fasteners.
- Remove the two screws in the flange of the air duct connector. Remove the single fixing screw securing the panel to the door shell.
3. Prise out the finisher plate from the door pull handle (4 spring clips), and remove the two fixings securing the handle and trim panel to the door.
4. Remove the five screws in the underside of the door securing the panel. Pull out the bottom of the door panel and lift the top edge location pegs from their slots in the door shell. Unhook the door release cable from the handle, and disconnect the door harness from the window/mirror switchgear and mood lighting strip.

Refit in reverse order to removal.

 

[liquidsilver]

PLEASE post photos of your adventure into the door - A DIY or simple write up with a few pics would help us all.

Will do! Planning on trying to tackle it this weekend.

 

[LATech]

Will do! Planning on trying to tackle it this weekend.

What year is your Evora? There have been multiple reports from 2011 having window issues. You will read about faulty latch switches (no indexing), window motor replacements, faulty wiring contacts, and command module replacements.

I have heard little success with the 3 second hold solution.

For those of you with window issues, what year model do you own?

I had the issue, the window stopped indexing, I rolled it down, and it never came back up. The eventual solution was to replace the motor.

My car is a 2011.

 

[liquidsilver]

What year is your Evora? There have been multiple reports from 2011 having window issues. You will read about faulty latch switches (no indexing), window motor replacements, faulty wiring contacts, and command module replacements.

I have heard little success with the 3 second hold solution.

For those of you with window issues, what year model do you own?

I had the issue, the window stopped indexing, I rolled it down, and it never came back up. The eventual solution was to replace the motor.

My car is a 2011.

Mines a 2010 model with just over 10,000 miles. Me and my mechanic buddy tore apart my door last night and he says it's my window regulator/regulator motor. All the window tracking was tight. Is there a recall on this? I don't know if I have any warranty left on my car. I'm also 4 hours away from the closest dealer. Also last night he noticed that my throw out bearing is making quite a bit of noise and he's worried it might be going out. It rattles real bad when it's Idling in neutral, but when the clutch is in the rattle goes away. Do you guys think either of these problems would be covered if I don't have a warranty? My buddy can do the work at his shop, but didn't know what the cost of parts would be. I'm very new to lotus cars and to the forums but I did think I heard on here that the clutch is a bitch and is a lot of labor to replace.

 

[liquidsilver]

What year is your Evora? There have been multiple reports from 2011 having window issues. You will read about faulty latch switches (no indexing), window motor replacements, faulty wiring contacts, and command module replacements.

I have heard little success with the 3 second hold solution.

For those of you with window issues, what year model do you own?

I had the issue, the window stopped indexing, I rolled it down, and it never came back up. The eventual solution was to replace the motor.

My car is a 2011.

Hey latech, what's the 3 second hold solution? Thanks!

 

[squidward]

It was stated in the manual that window adjustments are not covered by the warranty.

So a DIY guide is in order... I've made these adjustments before on my car. Anyway it's about time I do another one since my passenger window had gotten out of alignment one again. Owning this car you'll realize the majority of issues will be niggles like this.

 

[Bobsy Racer]

Mines a 2010 model with just over 10,000 miles. ...
Also last night he noticed that my throw out bearing is making quite a bit of noise and he's worried it might be going out. It rattles real bad when it's Idling in neutral, but when the clutch is in the rattle goes away.

If the rattle goes away with the clutch depressed, it does NOT sound like a throw out bearing.
It might just be the gear rattle that many have noticed when taking off slowly in 1st gear. Try changing the gear oil, to one of those recommended on this forum.

 

[James33]

It was stated in the manual that window adjustments are not covered by the warranty.

So a DIY guide is in order... I've made these adjustments before on my car. Anyway it's about time I do another one since my passenger window had gotten out of alignment one again. Owning this car you'll realize the majority of issues will be niggles like this.

Yes - please post a DIY including removing the panel to get to the door latches. :bow:

 

[liquidsilver]

It was stated in the manual that window adjustments are not covered by the warranty.

So a DIY guide is in order... I've made these adjustments before on my car. Anyway it's about time I do another one since my passenger window had gotten out of alignment one again. Owning this car you'll realize the majority of issues will be niggles like this.

please I would love to see how you adjust yours I didn't see anything that looked like it could adjust my window, that's why we thought it was the window regulator. my window on the drivers side that's out of alignment can be moved back and forth with your hands the other side is tight. Something seems loose but I didn't see any of the tracks in the door that seemed loose.

 

[liquidsilver]

If the rattle goes away with the clutch depressed, it does NOT sound like a throw out bearing.
It might just be the gear rattle that many have noticed when taking off slowly in 1st gear. Try changing the gear oil, to one of those recommended on this forum.

What do you think the rattle is then? you can only hear it when the cars idling in neutral, then instantly goes away when you depress the clutch. My car definitely makes a rattle when you start out slow.... what type of gear oil is most recommended for the evora?