I have the same setup, but retained my AC. Allen wanted to remove it but I decided to keep it. I wish he hadn't told me how much weight I could have saved.In case it's of interest, here's my personal experience with the Laminova setup:
I always warm my car at idle before taking it on track, oil temp lags behind water. After approximately 15-20 minutes at idle (car has a 170* thermostat), water is at ~178*F and oil is at ~145*F. Once on track and after a few laps, whether ambient is 55* or 95*F, water will get to ~176 to 185* (depends upon the blanking plates I use for the radiator opening to control water temps) and oil temp is ~ 220-225*F. These temps remain stable for the entire session or 30 minute sprint races that are run in Lotus Cup.
My 211 was used by Brent Bauman to test the prototype laminova setup, which he designed, and he made many small modifications to my car's cooling system in addition to just adding a larger/more robust radiator. This is why my car runs cool water temps and I need to block off air flow to the radiator on cool days. Brent was sharing the info and results with Allen at VSA, who subsequently took over sale of a complete system. VSA can sell a complete "kit" for DIYers, so no guessing as to which sandwich plate, size of laminova, aftermarket rad, thermostat, etc need be ordered. While a DIY install is possible, IMO, I'd leave it to an experienced Lotus shop to do the work as some minor fabrication may be needed.
Photos below of the blanking plates needed -- photo 1 no plates when ambient is 85* or above; photo 2 air opening limited to 12" for when ambient temps are less than 60*....
After approximately 15-20 minutes at idle (car has a 170* thermostat), water is at ~178*F and oil is at ~145*F. Once on track and after a few laps, whether ambient is 55* or 95*F, water will get to ~176 to 185* (depends upon the blanking plates I use for the radiator opening to control water temps) and oil temp is ~ 220-225*F. These temps remain stable for the entire session or 30 minute sprint races that are run in Lotus Cup.
Thanks for your advice.Change your thermostat for a higher temperature one (185* to 195*). A lower temperature thermostat does not provide additional cooling capacity. Using blanking plates is a crutch. We blocked off the radiators when I ran formula fords because we drilled the thermostat or ran a blanking plate (for hp and reliability issues). I would not have done it if it were not for other priorities.
Mine is on the passenger side of the car, on the lower firewall (engine side). The only time you can really see it is when it's up on a lift. I know Jack has excellent pictures of his setup and I'm sure he'll post them up.Where is yours mounted?
CPH, thanks for the kind words on color (it's a Ferrari color--Corsa Scuderia--Lotus blasphemy I know ) I'm still partial to orange, but since I sold my (Bobcat) orange 2-11 to a friend, who is also a member at Spring Mountain, I didn't want to have the same color car and rain on his parade.My temps are a little different than your setup... after a good warmup and 4 laps I see water temps around 87c / 188F , a tad higher .. but Oil is only 94C / 201F , so you are running a bit warmer . This is based on a 20C / 68F ambient.
I am running a C43-332 Laminova .
Running a BOE REV400 and have the HEX mounted in the front so difficult to use blanking plates.
Suspect that you are using the smaller C43-182 Laminova ?
Would be good to see the oil temp a little higher .. so may look to go with smaller Lam at the next strip down ... which won't be for awhile hopefully !!!
I love the pics of your car in Red and Black ... I have been looking to redo my car and I keep coming back to your colour scheme ... would you be concerned if the same colour car turned up in the Southern hemisphere !!
Just as a point of interest ,in the K20 Elise race car I am currently building I am running a Dual Core Cooler kit Dual Core Laminova Oil Cooler Kit - Speedflow
C43/92 for the gearbox [ EP sequential] and C43/332 for the Engine [K20]
Have deleted the the OEM water Pump and running a CWA200 Pierburg Pump for more flow [ ECU controlled] Will still have a HEX rad sandwiched to the Engine Rad.
It will be interesting to see what temps I get ..
Thanks for the feedback.
Parts and installation were $3576.14.How much did the parts and install run? Would bring in AZ heat (up to 120°+) have a different effect. My temp gets up there quick on the engine during the summer, and I always wait to engage 2nd cam for 8-10 minutes after temp is up. I'm more concerned with cam wipe long term.
I'm in Southern California and run the AC here in stop and go traffic when forced to. No issues.I just finished installing a single rear oil cooler, I'm in the middle of installing oil temp gauge (oil pan), and I still need to remove the two front coolers and lines. I swapped the sandwich plate thermostat wax "bullet" with a 200*F "bullet", and I wired the Spal fan on the oil cooler to a toggle switch in the cockpit. I like the fact that the oil cooler doesn't add heat load to the coolant radiator, and the fan switch adds a degree of control. I expect I'll mostly leave the fan off when on the street, and switch it on at the track. I don't doubt that the Laminova is a good solution, but since I still have A/C, and drive it on the street, I just wondered if overheating (the coolant) might be an issue on a hot day, stop and go traffic, with A/C on. Situation best avoided, I know.