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Discussion Starter · #741 ·
My 200F thermostat came in two pieces as well, and I thought nothing of it and pushed the pin back in and installed it.
I also am using an oil temperature gauge, and after 10-12m of moderate driving (RPM around 3k - 4k) oil temps come up to just under 180F. After pushing the car harder (staying on the small cam) oil temps come up to 185F or so after another few minutes.
After some big cam fun time, oil temps can approach 200F - 205F but never really pass that point on the street, and oil temp comes back down to 180F pretty easily.
I assumed this was normal oil temperature behavior, even with the 200F thermostat, but after reading recent posts maybe it's not normal?

My car is a 2005 touring pack Elise, so I think it has dual oil coolers but I haven't checked to be sure. Still learning.
I've heard sometimes people get the 185F thermostat instead of the 200F unit by mistake, as in they get sent the wrong thermostat, so that is a possibility as well I suppose.
Might as well throw in a 185F thermostat on the next oil change to see if temperatures change much.
Which oil pan do you have?
Where are you measuring the oil temp?
What are the outside temps?

As shown in the graphs above, big alloy pans cool almost as well as the oil coolers

180 - 190 is the pretty normal temps fro me with 180 thermostat and standard pan in most conditions. Goes over 205 in hot weather and spirited driving
 

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2005 Ardent Red Elise, Touring Pack
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Which oil pan do you have?
Where are you measuring the oil temp?
What are the outside temps?

As shown in the graphs above, big alloy pans cool almost as well as the oil coolers

180 - 190 is the pretty normal temps fro me with 180 thermostat and standard pan in most conditions. Goes over 205 in hot weather and spirited driving
Good questions.
Stock oil pan, measuring oil temp at the (Mishimoto) sandwich plate, and outside temps are between 75°F and 90°F
 

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Sounds like your thermostat is not right. Mine gets to 180+ in something over 8 minutes with the colder thermostat almost no matter the temp
Guess I’ll try to get it replaced and will report back. Shame that the 200°F thermostats seem to be failing a lot
 

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I'm going to be getting a new 200F direct from Mishimoto soon. Hopefully it works properly. I don't have any sort of temp probe in my car however. I'm hoping to hear that others on here achieve success after getting new replacement thermostats.
 

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I ordered one of each of these and am looking forward to seeing if these replacement Mocal oil sandwich plate thermostats fit in the stock oil cooler. The Mishimoto thermostat sort of fits, but the plunger is further out when cold.
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Then I can collect data to compare against the Mishimoto plate. If it fits, the last data set that showed the Mocal plate warming up faster than the Mishimoto plate (but to a lower temp set point), might indicate that the stock plate plus higher thermostat temp might be a good solution. But now I’m speculating.

 

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Just to clarify my post above, I ordered higher temp wax thermostats that I’m hoping will fit properly in the stock plate.

That won't work
The problem you have is you have the aftermarket pan.
As we have learned from many people here, the pan overwhelms the effect of the coolers.
I’m not sure if I follow your statement about overwhelming the effect of the coolers?

As Gus implies, if you're running the big aftermarket pan on the street you need to insulate it.
The data I took does not show that the big aftermarket pan needs to be insulated on the street. My first data set (here) showed that the temperature measured at my Mishimoto plate (in a solid oil stream, after the oil pump, as opposed to measuring in the pan) with the default 185F thermostat was basically identical when my BOE pan was uninsulated, lightly insulated, and heavily insulated, even with cool ambient temperatures. The temp measured in the pan did vary with different insulation though. That leads me to believe that pan insulation doesn’t matter much when driving at moderate speed and rpm. Measurement location does though.
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And my second data set (here) showed that the stock plate warmed up at least as quickly as the mishimoto plate (yellow trace above) during an easy driving cycle. That leads me to believe that any extra leakage through the stock plate (vs. the Mishimoto) to the coolers during warmup doesn’t cause the stock plate to slow down the warmup process (significantly, or perhaps at all), under driving conditions. Again, that may be different at idle, like the measurements in the first post in this thread, but I didn’t test a full warm-up cycle at idle.
 

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I will agree with Andrew. Where you measure the oil temp makes the biggest difference. I used to measure in the Boe aluminum oil pan and found that insulating it did make a difference.

I have since moved my sensor to the sandwich plate, and the oil temp instantly went up by around 20 degrees, oil pan insulated or not makes very little difference if any.
 

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It might be worth starting a new thread at this point. This might be the biggest post on the forum?
I fully agree, it’s getting to the point where there is way too much different info and we are no longer comparing apples to apples.
 

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Discussion Starter · #755 ·
IF you go back to my initial graphs, you will see that not only did I take measurements from the drainplug of the stock pan, but I used a non contact to measure a consistent spot on the pan, and to measure the temperature of the oil coolers, both before and after changing the sandwich plate. All of these measurements show that the Mishimoto is consistently faster warming up than the stock, and that it bleeds little oil at higher revs.
The only cars that differ in this have the alloy pan
 

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Discussion Starter · #756 ·
I fully agree, it’s getting to the point where there is way too much different info and we are no longer comparing apples to apples.
I am not sure, information tends to get fragmented, and I have seen issues on other subjects where new people pull up an older thread and use outdated information to make decisions and mods.
Yes the thread is unwieldy, but one can skip a lot of the conversation and drill down to the facts pretty easily. More easily than if a different thread goes off on a tangent and gets viewed in the future in isolation
 

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It might be worth starting a new thread at this point. This might be the biggest post on the forum?
Not at all. The BOE CAI and Evora picture threads both on this same "New" page have more pages.
 
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your data conflicts with all other data, except the experience of those with alloy pans on the street
I didn’t see anyone else taking data in the stock sandwich plate, or simultaneously comparing measurements in the sandwich plate and oil pan. Or directly comparing with the pan insulated vs. non-insulated. That may be why it conflicts with other data.

If the temp measured in the sandwich plate is identical whether the pan is heavily insulated or non-insulated (in ~50F weather), then I would conclude that insulating the pan is unnecessary. It isn’t rejecting enough heat to make the oil in the engine colder, in an easy driving cycle.
 

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I feel like there is some good information in the thread, but its just sooo unwieldy and I just don't have the patience to go through this many pages and try and find the good stuff. Someone needs to make a "Lessons Learned" thread.
The whole thread is a good read since various topics, solutions and results are covered. Try from post #613 for a short version.
 
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