[kabinski]

Mods, I realize this may not be in the correct section, but if you will, please leave it here for a day or two as I'm in a position where I need as many people tonight as possible to read this. Thanks.

My wife and I just picked up our first Elise (an '05 w/ 4,500 miles). We drove from North Myrtle Beach, SC, to Erie, PA (approx. 750 miles) and traded in my Toyota FJ Cruiser. We are about 200 miles into our drive home, and have just pulled off at a hotel for the night, for fear of what happened to us earlier.

Problem #1 was my driver's side power window wouldn't go up all the way (about 1-inch from the top). It worked fine the first few times I used it, but after a few times, it wouldn't go up all the way.

Problem #2 (the bigger problem)- About 100 miles into our trip, the instrument cluster went dead- the tach and speedo needles went to "0" for a couple seconds, then all the warning lights lit up for a couple seconds. Right after that, everything went back to normal. The car never cut out and the stereo stayed powered up during this short-lived episode. About 50 miles later, the exact same thing happened.

I'm not so much worried right now about the window (I helped force it up after we stopped), but I am greatly worried about the cluster cutting out. Again, thats why we pulled over this early into our trip home. We were hoping to drive a couple more hours before finding a hotel, but realized it was best to play it safe and get off the road since it's night.

If any of you can give me any insight on what the deal may be, PLEASE chime in and respond. I'm going to my room right now (we just checked in) and I'll check this thread at around 6:00am before we leave. Thanks!

 

[Aedo]

I had a similarish cluster issue. Disconnect the battery for 5mins then reconnect - this should reboot the cluster.

 

[jhnmdahl]

Hmmm, you might try a cluster reset. Not that it's a probable fix, but it's free to try:


Open the driver door and put key in ignition but don't turn it.
Press the trip counter reset button for at least three seconds.
While pressing the button, turn your ignition key to "on". You will see the needles sweep and reset their zero points.

Hope this helps,

John

 

[Bane]

The window thing is normal. You'll have to take the panel off when you get home to adjust the stop inside so it'll go all the way up.

Try resetting the ECU by unplugging the ground cable from the battery for a few minutes. My neighbor had the same issue with his a year or so ago and a simple "reset" has fixed it since.

Have fun with your new car! You'll soon learn they are full of quirks like this but they are still a ton of fun to own

*edit* Damn you guys are fast

 

[cdn_alien]

I wouldn't worry about the window. This is a very common problem, and can be fixed easily. There is a hole on the interior side of the door near the bottom close to the hinge point. With a flat screwdriver, you (or the dealer) can make adjustments to the window. As long as it isn't raining, you can just lock the car, and fix it at home.

The fritzing gauges are also a common problem. I have had the dead speedo and tach problem several times before, and it is harmless at it relates to keeping the car running. Are you getting the 'stranded' tach needle as well? By that, I mean the tach shows an elevated level of revs when running, and the needle gets stranded at about 1 to 2,000 rpm even after you shut the engine off. If so, there is a fix for that. You get in the car, leave the driver door open, hold down the dash dimmer switch, stick the key in and turn to the on position. The needle should reset itself. BTW, the dash dimmer switch is a small button located on the underside of the steering column. You hold down the button and it automatically varies from dimmest to brightest. Just release the button when it gets to the desired setting.

Good luck, and congratulations on your purchase!

*Edit* - guess I need to type faster.

 

[RoadDad]

Lucas Lives!

Congrats on the new car. Enjoy it and as Bane says "full of quirks."

If the cluster goes out again on your way home tomorrow just keep up with traffic around you . Enjoy the ride.

 

[kabinski]

Thanks, folks. I just ran down to the lobby to check this hotel PC before going to bed. I'll sleep a little better now that I've heard your suggestions. Gonna print them out now and try them in the morning.:clap:

I'll check this again in the morning before leaving, so if anyone else has experienced the same, please let me know.

 

[tvacc]

The window thing might be even easier. There is a phillips screw on the rear track about 2 inchs down from the top of the track. This loosens up. Might sure it is tight. You will need a long thin phillips to tighten it.

 

[def]

Hmmm, you might try a cluster reset. Not that it's a probable fix, but it's free to try:


Open the driver door and put key in ignition but don't turn it.
Press the trip counter reset button for at least three seconds.
While pressing the button, turn your ignition key to "on". You will see the needles sweep and reset their zero points.

Hope this helps,

John

Note, when doing this, turn the key as quick as you can. If you're gentle, it won't reset. I think you have to turn the key all the way to the furthest number, I think it's like "III" or something, normally would be the starter. Should hear something mechanical behind the guages moving

 

[RoadDad]

Gonna print them out now and try them in the morning.:clap:

The cluster reset procedure is in the owner's manual, if you got one with the car.

 

[kabinski]

Getting on the road now. I'll try re-setting the cluster before we head out. If that fails, I'll try the battery disconnect. Thanks again for the help, everyone.

BTW, since the cluster reset is outlined in the owner's manual, is this a fairly common problem? Is my problem the reason (or one of the main reasons) why the manual even shows you how to reset it? I haven't looked at that part in the manual yet. I'll check it when I get out to the car.

 

[ChrisB]

TVACC probably has the right procedure for your particular window problem. That bracket can come loose and snag the window near the top of its upward movement.

Regarding the cluster problem, did the car continue to run normally during the period where the instruments went dead, or did you notice a very brief cut in power...like turning the key off and quickly back on? If so, the problem is likely the ECU reseting for some reason...possibly a loose connector on the ECU or CharlieX has identified another problem with some sealant oozing from the cable into the connector. Simple, but tedious, solution to that problem.

The reset procedure in the manual is for when the needles read all wrong, like 4,000 RPM at idle. That is usually caused by a momentary drop in voltage below the gauge cluster's tolerance, or a similar electrical problem.

Hope you make it all the way with no significant issues.

 

[RoadDad]

CharlieX has identified another problem with some sealant oozing from the cable into the connector.

That, IIRC, was just for the ECUs that are being unplugged and then plugged back in.

 

[Randy Chase]

Congrats on the Elise after being on the forum for over 4 years!

 

[charliex]

if the engine's not blipping out, its probably not the ecu resetting, loose connection in the cluster or connector probably, or a power draw might be worth checking the battery too.

congrats on the car!

 

[TimMullen]

BTW, since the cluster reset is outlined in the owner's manual, is this a fairly common problem? Is my problem the reason (or one of the main reasons) why the manual even shows you how to reset it? I haven't looked at that part in the manual yet. I'll check it when I get out to the car.

No, it's not that common, but it does happen to a few.

Actually, as soon as possible, read the Owner's Manual from cover to cover. Unlike most owner's manuals, there is actually a LOT of information about the many quirks of the Elise that are documented in the Manual (things like the reset procedure, the alarm only functions if the interior light is in the down position, and the funky door locks).

As soon as you get home, you might also want to go to LCU's web site and pay the $25 to download the Factory Service Manual, and again, read the manual as there is a lot of information clearly explained in there (i.e. how the ABS works, the cooling system and "heat soak pump", and more).

Congratulations on your purchase!

 

[kabinski]

Regarding the cluster problem, did the car continue to run normally during the period where the instruments went dead, or did you notice a very brief cut in power...like turning the key off and quickly back on?

Well, we made it home with no significant problems. I drove a total of 26 hours (13 each way) in less than two days. Needless to say, these seats were not made for long drives. Despite the couple of glitches, the drive home was fun. I left the dealer with less than 4,500 miles on the odo, and added about 750 in this one drive.

I first tried re-setting the cluster, but the speedo and tach went dead 2 more times within the first 50 miles of driving this morning, just as it did yesterday. I then disconnected the battery for a few minutes and pumped the brakes a bunch of times to reset the ecu. I thought the problem was resolved, but after about 400 miles, it happened again, then one more time before we finally made it home. So, I'm still not sure what is going on. One thing I thought of was possibly condensation/water making contact someone in an electrical connection. I believe the car was washed a few days before I picked it up. I don't believe it was driven in between then. Last night, we stayed in a hotel atop a very high, densely fogged mountain. The car was dripping wet from moisture this morning. Perhaps all this caused a bit more condensation in the wrong areas of the car than normal. For you experts out there, what are the odds it could've been from condensation entering a connection somewhere and throwing off the voltage a bit?

Also, has anyone taken the time on here to come up with a "most common bolts that come loose on the Elise" list?:shrug: I'm half kidding, but in the 750-mile drive home, I believe we heard two completely new creaks/squeaks/rattles that we didn't have when we first started our journey?:crazyeyes

 

[kabinski]

Congrats on the Elise after being on the forum for over 4 years!

Thanks, Randy, to you and everyone else on here for the nice welcome. Just like back in the good 'ol, early Spyderchat days (that I believe you were a big part of), I'm looking forward to learning all about what makes the Elise tick.

 

[SirLotus]

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f101/elise-exige-fasteners-check-periodically-36947/
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f22...here-information-uberthread-25131/#post530877

Also, has anyone taken the time on here to come up with a "most common bolts that come loose on the Elise" list?:shrug: I'm half kidding, but in the 750-mile drive home, I believe we heard two completely new creaks/squeaks/rattles that we didn't have when we first started our journey?:crazyeyes

 

[Green Ghost]

Unfortunately you are getting a vary quick learning how it ticks, not even getting home and getting a lesson. Wow

Anyway ….. congrats or getting the car and hope it smooth sailing from here.