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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to troubleshoot why my dome light and red door sill lights aren't turning off in my 88 Esprit. I had read up on how to test relays (before I knew there were electronic and non-electronic varieties), and I removed the large yellow relay from the box in the front boot (courtesy light delay). I tried to connect 12V power to see if I got the "click" indicator--no luck. It was then I opened up the relay and saw the PC board and electronics--and came to realize all relays are not the same. I removed one of the square, "normal" looking relays and tried the power test on that, more for my 15 year old son who was participating in all this, just so he could hear the clicking noise. That one checked out with audible evidence, so I thought I would try a power test on one of the the larger relays which I assumed was also an electronic type. I chose the fuel light relay, figuring if something went wrong, it wouldn't be a total loss. I also figured they were replaceable (which I've now come to realize, perhaps not). So I got a glowing red light and a pop when I tried the power test on the red relay--obviously not good. Trouble shooting efforts ended there.

So my question is, do electronic relays make an audible noise when actuated? OR how does one go about testing them for continuity/resistance and functionality? Is there a good source for replacements? I haven't been able to find anything. JAE would be a last resort, but I wonder if they would even have any.

Thanks for any input.

Eric

1267159
 

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There is an amazing thread on TLF

Shoot me a an email and I will send a link. Not allowed to post here.

My e-mail is in my sig below
 

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Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
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'Electronic' relays do not CLICK, they actuate (switch contact outputs) electronically, as a diode does.


You haven't installed LED bulbs have you? Apparently (as I found out myself ) the Delay Modules require a certain amount of resistance in their circuitry. LEDs confuse them.
 

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Bought a tester, never looked back!



 

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'Electronic' relays do not CLICK, they actuate (switch contact outputs) electronically, as a diode does.


You haven't installed LED bulbs have you? Apparently (as I found out myself ) the Delay Modules require a certain amount of resistance in their circuitry. LEDs confuse them.
I installed LED bulbs on passenger side rear light (except for tail light - different socket) - the SIGNAL indicator light doesn't work on LED light, but the LED light itself is actually signalling.

May give up on the LED conversion selectively - don't want to screw aroudn with the delay modules.
DId notice the LEDs run very cool compared to the incandescents.
 

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LEDs are great for dash, stop, and parking/marker lights. Due to their very low voltage draw they usually will cause problems wherever they are connected to delay modules or blinkers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No LED "upgrades" here... largely because I had read about the pitfalls here on LT, so thanks! I'll take a look at the link Erik spoke of.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As a follow up, I took apart my electronic relay and inspected it for obvious signs of failure (burn marks, disconnected diodes, swollen capacitors, etc.) and didn't find anything peculiar. I ended up following the door switch "rebuild" advice found on TLF (link mentioned above). I removed and "serviced" the switch on the passenger side as well as the lower corresponding switch on the driver side (upper one is for the seatbelt "buzzer" which is disconnected in my car). Upon inspection, I honestly didn't think there was reason for concern: no excessive corrosion or tarnishing in the switch contacts, and switch resistance seemed fine when tested with a multimeter. Nonetheless, I sanded all contact points, used Deoxit and a lubricator, reassembled and reinstalled. Lights are now turning off as they should.

I'm not sure how I feel about it--while I'm glad the maintenance worked, I'm not entirely sure what I did! I'll claim it as a success though.
 
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