The Lotus Cars Community banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have frigging power mirrors! Okay thats a lie, I have power mirror, singular. I did the passenger side first to check viability, fitment, etc. I looked at a bunch of rover200 and mg/mgf mirrors. The mg ones were more expensive, but painted, rover 200 ones were less plentiful, but cheaper, also very few were power (although all had power heat, lol, is it a law there?). I decided to get a rover one in all black as I could paint later, and as I dont really like the red front mirror piece with black trim (just looks unfinished to me) I thought Id either go for all black or painting the front and rear pieces. I am still not sure what I want to do in that regard, and admittedly I hoped the original red front piece would have any needed mounting bosses on the inside, hope doesnt work there. Well I thought I ordered a used rover 200 mirror, but it was a new aftermarket TCY part, meh, TCY is a decent company, Ive used many of their fans with no issues. After attachment the mirror does have a decent amount of play between the spring return portions (front and rear bend away for safety) and I admit its not something Im happy about, but its similar to the same play in my factory mirrors, but I hoped that was due to wear, not a cheaply made part. Once again hope failed me, so this play could be due to a cheap aftermarket part, but I fear all these mirrors have it. If anyone has the mg/mgf with these mirrors, do they do it too? Maybe the mg version is quality, wait, Ive owned an mg and know this is false hope as well, lol. Back to the mod. I removed the plinith to make sure I wasnt goint to drill into anything important, but I did think I saw a way to run the wires through the top portion of the plinith. Good thing I pulled it and checked, I would have drilled into the glued in area of the bracket for the front window guide. So I had to wire through the lower arm of the plinith, this took a long bit on my dremel and two holes through the inside webs of the plinith. The hole in the door, I measured that sucker about eight times before drilling, I put just in front and low of right between the two plinith mounting holes. I then made a template to duplicate that hole on the drivers side when I do it. If you look inside the door just behind the front lower plinith bolt, theres a spot where you can see the three layers of fiberglass go down to one (it gets thick for the plinith mounting bolt?) I tried to get very close to the three layer part, but not hit it. I was also trying to keep the wires as frontward as possible to stay away fron the window. When I ran the wires I simply ran them between the outer skin and the main door beam, that should keep them way out of the windows way. Going through the door boot and into the cab is easy, the boot just took a zip tie pushed through then taped to the wires and pulled out. With the sill plate and side pocket cover off theres tons of room for routing wires. I think on the drivers side I will even try without pulling the sill plate. to route to the drivers pocket cover/ light switch panel I simply pulled the steering column cover and went through the front passage in the dash, I do plan to leave enough extra wire so I can reroute this with the factory wire bundle when I have the dash cover off again, but it really isnt necessary. My Switch is a honda one off an acura integra and put in right below the start button. I did have to make a connector to fit it, but I didnt have to rewire or change anything to make the direction controls work properly with the rover mirror, cake. The wires are just three for each mirror so I twisted 20 foot or so of 18ga black, white, and yellow together to match the rovers black, grey, and brown, hey it makes sense to me, lol. I got power from the start button, easy as I have a push to start installed and the factory wires are already cut. Black is gound and theres two greens, one is the 3 amp fuse and if it blows the engine dies, the other is the 10 amp fuse and if it blows you lose gauges, the second it is. I was goig to use the drivers power window power, but figured the 20a fuse for that was too high. I already ordered another of the exact same power mirror as it has a convex mirror in it and I do want to try that in my drivers side. That should take reclocking for the directions to work correctly but I checked that on the one I have and you can reclock them. I will take more and better pictures when I do the other side and put those on here as well, but the mirror comes from europe and last time took a month or so to get here. I may run the wires for the drivers isde while waiting for delivery. If you look the trim on the power mirror in the back is much thicker than the factory one, this also made me think the red front would look even worse then factory with these different mirrors. Thoughts on looks and painting? or all of it...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,734 Posts
@Cbd automotive How about some links to where you got the parts. I would add these in a heart beat because it would mean that I would no longer have to adjust the mirrors for my wife. I thinking about put the switch in the shifter console that way you can reach it when you are all strapped in. Great Job!
Later,
Eldon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The mirror is the only thing I actually bought, everything else is just stuff I have around, as a shop and a tinkerer. The ones I got are tyc - crb108120pmd. TYC Side Mirror Black Right For ROVER 200 CRB108120PMD | eBay . But if you want to paint it one off a mg/mgf might be better as they are painted already or come primered MGF MG TF Electric Door Mirror RH Genuine MG Rover Part Number CRB110160JBH blue | eBay . If anyone does get an mg type I would like to know if it has any less play than my tyc. I did bookmark a shop called rimmer bros as they have then too, MGF & MG TF Body Fittings - Windscreen & Mirrors | Rimmer Bros .
For a switch I like honda stuff as I have lots lyuing around, and I trust them. Many of the 90s to 2010 or so use the style I did, I have another one thats similar but has a different plug on the back, pretty sure its from an early 2000s crv 02-06 actually, and th
@Cbd automotive How about some links to where you got the parts. I would add these in a heart beat because it would mean that I would no longer have to adjust the mirrors for my wife. I thinking about put the switch in the shifter console that way you can reach it when you are all strapped in. Great Job!
Later,
Eldon
at might be easier to find. Id just look for one that comes with a pigtail attached, and one you like the style of. I checked to see if I could comfortably reach the switch while driving and I thought it wasnt bad at all. If you put it in the center console you will be running a lot more wires. There isnt even a hole to go from that dash and side pocket area to the underdash and center con. I also did forget to mention that the mounting studs on the new mirror need to be cut down to fit the lotus, you can see the originals are too. I just measured the factory ones with a caliper, locked it down and transferred the measurement, then cut it with an imp (mini pipe cutter) to get a square cut.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I also just drove it and the power mirror does vibrate a bit more than my factory one. I think some foam paddind and or some heavy grease in the movement mechanism shoould help. The motors basically connect to a rack and pinion system to move the mirror. some serious grease on the "rack" might fix that right up. Also I have a tuned k20 with hard poly mounts so I have lots of vibration anyways.
Hey monitors I accidentally put up multiples of my pictures and put a quote right in the middle of my last response. Not sure if those can be or need be fixed. Thanks. I actually have a home depot add right in the middle right of my screen that I cant remove, not sure if anyone else is experiencing this
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So heres the full write up with pictures on the second one (drivers side). To start take the new mirror and remove the trim ring around the glass, then the glass itself. The trim is pulled from the base (at the rubber) out, then unclipped as you go around. The glass has four clips around the motor assembly near each alignment pin, it is easy to remove once the trim ring is off, it probably is possible to remove the glass without removing the trim ring with a pick and angling the glass but I just pulled the trim. The mirrors I got were heated as well, but I didnt want heat so I pulled the heater wires they just unplug from the glass and I depinned the connector, but that was just to save the pins, the wires can just be cut. If you can find the other end of the rover connector it might work, but you need a connector that fits inside the lotus plinth. I have a box of 1 to 6 pin connectors from e-bay that I used (the three pin ones), but in a wet environment a weather-pac style connector would probably be better.
So take the new mirror (dissassembled) and cut the lower mounting rod. I used a caliper to measure the original lotus mirror rod and an imp pipe cutter to get a nice cut. The upper rod can be left long but needs to be shaved down on the end a bit (tapered) to fit all the way into the plinth, or a bit could be cut off (half inch or so). I felt the longer rod helped the mirror be more secure, I also wrapped each mounting rod with aprox two layers of electrical tape to make the rods fit snugly in the plinth holes on final assembly. Picture has my ebay connector already attached to the mirror wires.
Automotive tire Wood Gas Automotive wheel system Bicycle part
Calipers Bumper Automotive exterior Electrical wiring Gas
Coil Motor vehicle Automotive tire Electrical wiring Automotive exhaust
Light Automotive tire Red Material property Gas

Now remove the factory mirror, I used a heat gun to heat the screw covers, then remove the mirror to plinth screw and the plinth to door bolts. All screws/bolts had washers on them, so be careful not to lose them, the lower rear door to plinth bolt was a pain to get back in on the first door I did, so I put a nut on it to keep it in its hole. I made a template to where I drilled the hole in the door for the wires when I did the first door, the location is toward the front but just behind where the fiberglass is double layered for the plinth mounting bolt, you can see the extra layer from inside when viewed through the bolt removal holes. The wire hole was drilled with my small uni-bit, and I masking taped the area for marking it and to reduce chipping. The plinth has to be drilled out fro wire passage, I did this with a dremel with a drywall cutting bit as it was the only long side cutting bit I have, theres just no room to fit the dremel collet in there.
Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive tail & brake light Hood Vehicle
Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bumper Vehicle door Automotive exterior
Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle door Automotive lighting Automotive exterior
Automotive lighting Vehicle Hood Motor vehicle Window
Automotive lighting Kitchen utensil Motor vehicle Magenta Automotive exterior

Now route your wires, I used three 18 gauge wires twisted together. start in the cabin going out. I pulled the lights/ starter button panel, the door sill panel (but that might not be needed), door panel, inner door handle and cover, and popped the door wire boot off both holes it goes into. Start from the lights/starter panel area and go out the cabin hole for the door boot. Use a zip tie to go through the door boot then tape it to the wires to pull them through. Run the wires through the door side door boot hole into the door and out the hole where the inner door handle would be. Now I used a four foot zip tie I have for routing wires, a clothes hanger might work, but I really prefer the zip tie. Push it through the outer wire hole you made down and forward (to keep away from the window track) till you can pull it out the inner door handle hole. Tape your wires to the zip tie and pull. Again, I used some ebay three pin connectors I had already, but a weatherpac syle connector might be better if ypure in a wet area. Reattach the plinth running the wires through its previoiusly made holes. Install the new mirror, I wrapped apox two layers of electrical tape on each mirror mounting post to make it fit tighter. I had already installed the control switch, its off a late 90s acura integra. The honda switch is easy to install (just a square hole) and the common wire for the motors just happen to line up, plus I have lots of honda parts just lying around. I wrote the wiring down, but it was on scrap paper and it got trashed before I made a nice version. Basically look up the wiring diagram for your switch online and try it, it cant damage anything if wired wrong, itll just move the wrong direction. I believe the rover mirror was that the brown wire was common, black was up/down, white was l/r, but dont quote me there.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Bumper Automotive lighting
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have an extra right side mirror if anyone wants it. I though they were reverse-able, but not quite. Ithink I payed 65 after shipping, just want to make my money back. Also very willing to do the install for anyone if they want it, but it was a good days work or a bit more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I also just drove it and the power mirror does vibrate a bit more than my factory one. I think some foam paddind and or some heavy grease in the movement mechanism shoould help. The motors basically connect to a rack and pinion system to move the mirror. some serious grease on the "rack" might fix that right up. Also I have a tuned k20 with hard poly mounts so I have lots of vibration anyways.
Hey monitors I accidentally put up multiples of my pictures and put a quote right in the middle of my last response. Not sure if those can be or need be fixed. Thanks. I actually have a home depot add right in the middle right of my screen that I cant remove, not sure if anyone else is experiencing this
Dear Cbd automotive, thank you for this excellent article and it's info! I'm also interested to have power mirrors for my Elise as it's very troublesome to adjust. It would be great if you can help on these few questions before I go ahead to buy the parts:

1. Have you found out if the free play/vibration on the mirrors are specific to the OEM/TCY brand you used, and if the genuine Rover/MG ones are fine? Or have you managed to stop the vibration?

2. What do you think of these two mirrors online which seems to be from Rover/Lucas? GENUINE Door Mirror LH Rover 200/BRM/VI Heated & Electric remote control 1995-99 | eBay and For Rover 200 1989-1995 Lucas Right Hand Wing Door Mirror Electric- ADP646 5021374070586 | eBay

3. Are you able to advise the wiring connections if I buy this Toyota Camry switch from Amazon which comes with the connector and wires? I can't seem to figure out the wiring diagram provided in their last image. I guess grey is for power and white is for ground? There's also wires for folding/unfolding that don't need to be used. I found the wiring info below for Camry but the colors also don't fully match the colors in the Amazon item:

LH Mirror:
Black/Red = Motor L/R
Blue/Black = Motor Up/Down
Yellow/Green = Common ground for all motors.

RH Motor:
Light Green/Red = Motor L/R
Green/Red = Motor U/D
Yellow/Green = Common ground for all motors

White/Black = Ground for switch
Gray = Power
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Dear Cbd automotive, thank you for this excellent article and it's info! I'm also interested to have power mirrors for my Elise as it's very troublesome to adjust. It would be great if you can help on these few questions before I go ahead to buy the parts:

1. Have you found out if the free play/vibration on the mirrors are specific to the OEM/TCY brand you used, and if the genuine Rover/MG ones are fine? Or have you managed to stop the vibration?

2. What do you think of these two mirrors online which seems to be from Rover/Lucas? GENUINE Door Mirror LH Rover 200/BRM/VI Heated & Electric remote control 1995-99 | eBay and For Rover 200 1989-1995 Lucas Right Hand Wing Door Mirror Electric- ADP646 5021374070586 | eBay

3. Are you able to advise the wiring connections if I buy this Toyota Camry switch from Amazon which comes with the connector and wires? I can't seem to figure out the wiring diagram provided in their last image. I guess grey is for power and white is for ground? There's also wires for folding/unfolding that don't need to be used. I found the wiring info below for Camry but the colors also don't fully match the colors in the Amazon item:

LH Mirror:
Black/Red = Motor L/R
Blue/Black = Motor Up/Down
Yellow/Green = Common ground for all motors.

RH Motor:
Light Green/Red = Motor L/R
Green/Red = Motor U/D
Yellow/Green = Common ground for all motors

White/Black = Ground for switch
Gray = Power
Apologies I forgot to include the link to the Toyota switch that I am thinking of getting, and here it is: Amazon.com: Power Auto Rear Mirror Folding Switch with Wire Harness 84872-52040 for Toyota Vios Rav4 Camry Scion Lexus: Industrial & Scientific

The switch on-off diagram that I can't figure out is attached here too, and it would be great to have your advice.

Light Product Circuit component Font Line
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dear Cbd automotive, thank you for this excellent article and it's info! I'm also interested to have power mirrors for my Elise as it's very troublesome to adjust. It would be great if you can help on these few questions before I go ahead to buy the parts:

1. Have you found out if the free play/vibration on the mirrors are specific to the OEM/TCY brand you used, and if the genuine Rover/MG ones are fine? Or have you managed to stop the vibration?

2. What do you think of these two mirrors online which seems to be from Rover/Lucas? GENUINE Door Mirror LH Rover 200/BRM/VI Heated & Electric remote control 1995-99 | eBay and For Rover 200 1989-1995 Lucas Right Hand Wing Door Mirror Electric- ADP646 5021374070586 | eBay

3. Are you able to advise the wiring connections if I buy this Toyota Camry switch from Amazon which comes with the connector and wires? I can't seem to figure out the wiring diagram provided in their last image. I guess grey is for power and white is for ground? There's also wires for folding/unfolding that don't need to be used. I found the wiring info below for Camry but the colors also don't fully match the colors in the Amazon item:

LH Mirror:
Black/Red = Motor L/R
Blue/Black = Motor Up/Down
Yellow/Green = Common ground for all motors.

RH Motor:
Light Green/Red = Motor L/R
Green/Red = Motor U/D
Yellow/Green = Common ground for all motors

White/Black = Ground for switch
Gray = Power
Sorry, I didn't get an email for this. The mirrors I have seem quite good, little vibration and I have poly engine mounts. I do have an extra tyc from my swap, but I just remembered I rebuilt both the ones on my car to work better, I would imagine any version (oe or otherwise) would like that fix, but it's hard to explain. It's inside the fold away mechanism, I'd honestly have to see one apart again to remember how I did it. It was basically connecting the ball part of the ball and socket joint better so there was less play on the whole joint.
As for the wiring, I used a Honda control pad and it happened to be wired correctly, I believe it's a early 2000s crv one. I might be able to find the pin connection graph like you found for the toyota one, but I think the Honda one shares directions differently. If it has a different output it can be done, but rewire at the Motor might be necessary.
Rectangle Wood Wall Font Parallel

Actually there's the switch output, and I think yours was a 6 wire, this is a 5. Might be a simple fix, but I'd have to inspect both side by side.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top