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Discussion Starter #1
I have two very basic questions, hopefully I won't get flammed.

After a test drive in an Elise I have a couple of questions that come to mind. (I'm not a manual transmission guy)

1) When driving the Elise and you take off from a start and get on the throttle and get into the second cam, then shift to second, are you still in the second cam at this point, or do you then hit the second cam again in second and so on through the gears?
I guess what I'm asking, do I get the second cam *boost* only once or is it experienced through each gear change?

2) When coming to a stop in the Elise, what is the best way to do this? 1) Shift to neutral and brake to a stop or 2) Downshift through each gear to slow down and then stop?

Thanks for listening to my driving 101 questions
 

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you can do 1 to 2 and stay on cam. the drop off is lower than the onset. you have to be quick to do it but it works. 2 to 3 is easy.

i tend to rev match down shifting as i slow down. one can choose one's poison. use brakes or use clutch. the brakes would be cheaper to replace for sure

not deserving a hard time for asking those questions. however, the way you spell flaming is due a ration of crap! :D
 

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With regard to your second question, most "authorities" I've heard/read do not advise engine braking - as LotusLust says, brake pads are much cheaper than transmissions !
 

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Agreed, brake pads are cheaper than clutches. Coast to a stop in neutral.
 

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I will add only that I do indeed use the engine to slow the car. I'm not downshifting and having the RPM shoot up, but out of habit I've always used a little bit of engine to slow the car down. Never had a problem. As long as you're not abusing it, its probably fine to use engine assist IMHO.
 

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You don't actually shift into neutral to stop, simply push in the clutch to disengage from gear and brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
LotusLust said:
not deserving a hard time for asking those questions. however, the way you spell flaming is due a ration of crap! :D
LOL flame away on my spelling... I deserve that :)

Thank you for all the great information! A brake job sounds like something I could do in my garage, a clutch job would be a different story.

While I'm in dumb question mode, what is LSS? I've searched the forums and found "LSS" but can't figure out what it stands for or what it is. I have a feeling it is either the sport pack or something to do with the sport pack?!?
 

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lotus sport suspension...bingo
 

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Yes, downshift. You will not harm the clutch in anyway. The gears are there to use to your advantage.

Obviously alot of auto. trans. drivers on this forum.
 

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Downshifting to slowdown

It is advisable, if you want to maintain control of the vehicle, to downshift until you reach the stop.
It you put the car in neutral and brake to a stop, you have removed an important component of control -the ability to power-throttle.
 

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When coming to a stop for a red light, I coast with the clutch in and use the brakes to slow down, but I automatically shift to the gear suitable for that speed in case the light turns green, or any emergency happens that I need to get back on the throttle.

I will only use the engine to slow the car down on heavy inclines since you maintain control of the vehicle better.
 

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JimK said:
Agreed, brake pads are cheaper than clutches. Coast to a stop in neutral.
I predict a post from JimK in the near future: "I was just slowing down on this corner, in the wet, and well, to cut a long story short the repair bill is $13,982."

Don't coast.

Coasting makes you gay, kids.
 

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Rawr-I sense your angry tonight. Perhaps you need a pint or two...

I suppose I downshift all the way back to 1st for more control, too. On the way home I thought about it more and believe it saves a lot of brakes with no loss to the clutch if shifted correctly.
 

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Surferjer said:
Rawr-I sense your angry tonight. Perhaps you need a pint or two...

I suppose I downshift all the way back to 1st for more control, too. On the way home I thought about it more and believe it saves a lot of brakes with no loss to the clutch if shifted correctly.
Not angry, as such, just in the mood for a little bit of trolling on the 'cunts' thread :)

I stand by my comments on this thread, though.
 

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i just took the other as a wry sense of humor. or was it a pint of bitter?
 

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my $.02

for the street, coast to a stop. pads are cheaper than clutches. You shouldn't be stopping fast enough to require that much extra control anyway

in the wet, coast to a stop. If you engine brake, be careful as the added rear brake (especially when letting out the clutch if not rev matched) will increase your likelyhood to spin if you're turning.

If you don't double-clutch, you're wearing your synchros with the downshift as well. If you typically drive like a pansy, this won't much matter, but 70-100K of hard shifting will give you a notchy, grindy shifter.

If you're racing, this all goes out the window - downshift, engine brake, hold paddles out the windows... whatever it takes to maintain control.
 

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I put the clutch in and brake to a stop when I get to 1,250rpm.

Braking in neutral in the wet is at best foolish and at worst dangerous. It's also inefficient.
 

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i generally heel-toe downshift through the gears down to 2nd and then clutch in. It's good heel-toe practice and no wear on the clutch.
 

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offroadr35 said:
i generally heel-toe downshift through the gears down to 2nd and then clutch in. It's good heel-toe practice and no wear on the clutch.
Yep. Me too, though mostly I just rev match instead of a full heal toe. I also frequently downshift From 4th to 2nd during normal city driving. As for synchro wear, i believe that proper rev matching essentially negates an already negligible issue. Bottom line, I stay off the clutch pedal (and out of neutral) as much as possible when in motion. When fully stopped, i put the car in neutral, and lift off the clutch pedal to relieve the throwout bearing.

BTW: Some of the techniqes described here sound alarming.
 

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JonM3Coupe said:
As for synchro wear, i believe that proper rev matching essentially negates an already negligible issue.
Rev matching has no influence on synchro wear. You need to double clutch if you want to reduce wear on the synchros.
 
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