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Discussion Starter #1
So, I noticed my coolant was a lil low and needed to be topped off. Check the manuel and did a search here for what I'm suppose to use. Found out that I need to stick in Havoline XLC which on this side of the pond is Havoline Dexcool orange.

Then found out that Dexcool OTA has destoried some GM vechials and some feel that it should avoided. Has anyone had problems with Dexcool and their lotus?

Anyone use anything other then Dexcool and how has it worked out for them?

Also noticed people talking about bleeding the system to prevent air from getting in. Would I need to do this if I'm just filling up? If so whats the procedure.

Thanks
 

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Has anyone had problems with Dexcool and their lotus?

Anyone use anything other then Dexcool and how has it worked out for them?
Knowing nothing else, my advice: if you're still bothering with the warranty, I'd stick with OEM.

Can you provide a link to what you found?

Also noticed people talking about bleeding the system to prevent air from getting in. Would I need to do this if I'm just filling up? If so whats the procedure.
If your engine temps are consistently 195+, I would. I think the instructions are in this post

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f92/heater-core-bypass-mod-tony-wa-how-26740/index4.html#post452108
 

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http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/engine-coolant-43350/index2.html

LotusUSA recommended that I use PEAK Global life time coolant PEAK Global LifeTime and would never commit to the Dexcool being OK.

In speaking with multiple techs about the issue, however, I found that most, if not all, were using Havoline XLC.

The problems with the Dexcool were from putting that orange (also called red) coolant into systems designed for green coolant and some of the deposits in those systmes dissolving and the systems springing leaks.

Havoline XLC is fine in the Lotus as it requires the orange coolant. Again PEAK Global is also fine (available at NAPA).

You do not need to bleed the system in order to top it off.
 

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If topping off is all that's required I use Redline water wetter, It's good stuff and compatible with our coolant! I probably have about 2 bottles of the stuff in my system by now!
 

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The problems with the Dexcool were from putting that orange (also called red) coolant into systems designed for green coolant and some of the deposits in those systmes dissolving and the systems springing leaks.
Additionally, the GM systems that became "messed up" we early versions of Dexcool, and much of the problems were traced to the use of tap water mixed with the coolant - the tap water minerals caused problems by "clumping" and plugging up passages in the cooling systems.

With any coolant that you put in your cars, only use distilled water with the coolant, that way, you are getting pure water with no added minerals.
 

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+1 on the distilled water.

I put that and Zerex G 05 in the family beater 30K miles ago. Still crystal clear and no corrosion.

If you're only topping off a couple of ounces, just go with distilled. It won't dilute it enough to affect the corrosion protection or freeze/boil points.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for info guys. So how distilled are we talkin about? Ran through a britta ok? Or should I take some DI water from work, or be really anal and take some HPLC water?
 

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a bit related...the tube from the coolant tank to the engine is kind of long and I want to cut about an inch off. Looks to me if I pull the tube out from the tank, coolant will spill out. Is this so, and how can I shorten it without making a mess.
 

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Thanks for info guys. So how distilled are we talkin about? Ran through a britta ok? Or should I take some DI water from work, or be really anal and take some HPLC water?
As already posted, Britta won't do it. Or any other drinking water. Even the HPLC water is just filtered water.

You want distilled water. Most grocery stores, Wal-Mart, K-Mart, etc. sell gallon bottles of water. Check the labels, "sparkling water", etc. isn't the one you want - the label should say "distilled". A gallon jug should cost between fifty cents to a buck.
 

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I took some DI water from work and am going to use that.

However, I don't see why HPLC water wont work? Even if its just filtered water (not sure how HPLC water is made so I can't really refute that) it's still certified 99.9% H2O.

I'd imagine that HPLC water would be much more pure then any distilled water sold at a store. Especially if it costs 75 dollars a bottle.
 

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I took some DI water from work and am going to use that.

However, I don't see why HPLC water wont work? Even if its just filtered water (not sure how HPLC water is made so I can't really refute that) it's still certified 99.9% H2O.

I'd imagine that HPLC water would be much more pure then any distilled water sold at a store. Especially if it costs 75 dollars a bottle.
:shrug: I don't really know much about HPLC water other than it's filtered to a very fine level. But it's filtered. Distilled water is heated, turned to steam, the steam is collected, and condensed back into water. All the impurities are left behind (unless they are also turned into steam).

The reality is that well filtered water is probably not going to contaminate your cooling system. But that is going to cost you a lot more than a couple of jugs of distilled water.
 

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coolant

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/engine-coolant-43350/index2.html

LotusUSA recommended that I use PEAK Global life time coolant PEAK Global LifeTime and would never commit to the Dexcool being OK.

In speaking with multiple techs about the issue, however, I found that most, if not all, were using Havoline XLC.

The problems with the Dexcool were from putting that orange (also called red) coolant into systems designed for green coolant and some of the deposits in those systmes dissolving and the systems springing leaks.

Havoline XLC is fine in the Lotus as it requires the orange coolant. Again PEAK Global is also fine (available at NAPA).

You do not need to bleed the system in order to top it off.
I just went to the toyota dealer to pick up some coolant but their stuff is red in color and I still have the orange stuff in my 05 elise. Is the red coolant from the dealer compatitable with the orange coolant? Thanks in advance
 

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The Toyota red coolant is not the same as the orange coolant that is present in the car. As far as compatibility, IDK. You would need to contact the manufacturers of the coolants to ask them directly.

The other option is to drain the OEM coolant completely and replace it with the Toyota red.
 

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The Toyota red coolant is not the same as the orange coolant that is present in the car. As far as compatibility, IDK. You would need to contact the manufacturers of the coolants to ask them directly.

The other option is to drain the OEM coolant completely and replace it with the Toyota red.
Billy at BMCSF quoted me $350 for coolant change. Does this sound about right? Price seems kinda high for what I was looking to spend so looks like I'll have a DIY time with the Elise.
 

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I buy the pre-mixed coolant. Its just easier.

For what it is worth, I've worked in water plants for industrial and drinking water. There are membrane type filters in use which produce water which is virtually as pure as if it was done with a distilling process. Also, super pure water is corrosive. That is why in nature it always has minerals in it.
 
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