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help help i don't know why my engine light is on....this car is making me nuts. first tyhe tach, the lights and now the engine lights...what's next on a 50k car:shrug:
 

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shay2nak
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check your PMs. It could be battery related.
 

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I had an engine light problem because of a faulty gas gauge sensor. See if the fuel gauge is going down as you use fuel or does it remain at the near full level?
 

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engine Light on also

I have the same problem engine light is on , I already changed the gas cap no help. Next step 150 mile drive to the dealer for help .
Did you get your light to go out if so what was your fix? :confused: :confused: :mad: :mad:
 

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Engine Light Fixed

My "Check Engine" light came on at 52 miles!!! I had just picked the car up from the dealer, and now, 50 miles later, a problem. I was starting to wonder about this car on the first day I owned it. :(

That was on Saturday, called the dealer and he said to bring it back in on Monday, if it hadn't "self-corrected" by then.

On Monday, I was at the dealership bright and early and they got right on it. Turns out, according to the tech guy, that on brand new cars that are started up and just moved around the showroom or run only for a few minutes, the O2 sensor gets "coated with gas before the sensor has time to fully heat up". The engine is turned off with all that "gas" on it. Doing this several times causes an error code to generate and the light pops on. The tech reset all the codes and I haven't had a problem since. That was 3 days ago. If the light had come back on they would have replaced the O2 sensor. (I hope that explanation makes sense??? :shrug: )

The tech also said that he has had this happen on several other new cars they delivered. I'll take him at his word and hope the light stays off. :)

Wayne
 

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I had a problem with the "Check engine " light. It had to do with the gas gauge. The gas gauge was not working properly and it caused the problem.
 

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Joe guraro said:
What will a OBDII scan tool cost ? What can be done with one? Where can I get one?
You can get a handheld one at most auto parts places. They usually run around $70 or so for a basic one. It will read the fault from the computer and give you a code that you can look up to tell what is causing the check engine light to go on. You can also use it to "clear" the code, assuming the problem has been fixed.
 

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At the Schucks auto parts stores around here you can "rent" an OBD-II scan tool for $6 (they charge you $200 then credit it back upon return). My brief experience is that the OBD-II (and check engine light) report the bare minimum as required by DOT which is essentially just the emissions stuff (hot catalytic converter, misfire, O2 sensor, etc.)
-Sky
 

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P0455 Evap Ctrl System Gross Leak Detected

So If I was to clear this code P0455 Evap Ctrl System Gross Leak Detected, and then go get it passed the smog test the light would come back on in a few days ,It would give me time to go to the dealer which is 150 miles away to trouble shoot and fix . And make DMV happy .HMMM! :clap: :clap:
 

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P0455

Joe guraro said:
So If I was to clear this code P0455 Evap Ctrl System Gross Leak Detected, and then go get it passed the smog test the light would come back on in a few days ,It would give me time to go to the dealer which is 150 miles away to trouble shoot and fix . And make DMV happy .HMMM! :clap: :clap:

From the Service manual

P0455
This code is set if during the evaporative leak check the system fails to reach the evacuation target pressure.
The system will perform additional purge checks to determine the nature of the problem. The additional purge
checks will also run if the leak check fails to complete because the calculated vapour concentration is above
the limit.
Additional Purge Check Enable Criteria:
• Vehicle not stationary
• Load between 30 – 35%
• Purge value >= 75%
Monitor: Until leak check is completed
Potential failure modes
• Fuel filler cap not fitted
• Leak from pipes or connections
• Canister Closure valve stuck open


Did you check the fuel filer cap???
 

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engine light Blues

I took it to the dealer ( Smith Volvo ) it had a Fram cap on it they said it was the prob ,put the correct one on and reset the the light 3 days later the light came on . I guess that was not it .Called them need to drive 150 miles back to them to trouble shoot it . I am just trying to get the light off to pass smog to finish changing the title to my name. Then back to dealer when i have more time and not so hot weather its like 103 Degree in Fresno ,CA . Thats why I am asking if I can reset with odb11 tool if light stays off for 2or 3 days just long enough to go smog test , then to the dealer. :confused: :confused:
 

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I think the time before your light comes on is measured more in "drives" than miles or time. Each time you turn the key and let the car come up to temperature (closed loop), and go some distance at some speed, that counts.

So if you try this trick, bring the scantool with you, and reset it before pulling into the smog check place.

If they're really smart and wired, they will notice the "Pending" code while they're on OBD test, though -- it shows that the car has a problem and has not yet decided to turn the light (back) on.

It does sound like The Gas Cap error code, though. I'd give it a little more time to work itself out.
 

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My came on from what I'm guessing was a clogged air filter which changed my fuel/air mixture. After filter replacement it took a full week to go away. So be patient and give it time to reset itself (after you smog test it!)
 

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Clearing the fault code and turning off the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light, aka Check Engine Light) may not allow you to pass the smog test. Some places connect the car to a ODB-II tester to see if all of the internal tests have completed. If they haven't, you automatically fail smog. Clearing codes or disconnecting the battery just before a smog test is not a good idea for this reason. The car may require the completion of several "cycles" before it decides that the various systems have passed the tests. Some of the tests require the car to start from cold, warm up, drive within certain speed ranges for some period of time, etc. Some times the test cycles can be completed within a day or two of driving. Some times it can take weeks - it all depends on what conditions you encounter while driving. The same thing happens while it is setting the fault codes - some codes can be set immediately, some have to fail some consecutive number of times.

It can be a pain...:shrug:
 

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Usually, there is a cycle of operating conditions under which a "readiness code" is generated. The procedure should be described in the repair manual. For VWs you have to start with colod engine and go througha couple cycles driving with part throttle, wot, taking the engine above certain rpms a few times.

The readiness code needs to be done by mechanics in a reasonable amount of time. You should be able to reproduce this without waiting for days... Youll need the factory repair manual to tell you the procedure. Get it directly from Lotus as a companion to your scan tool.

'Greg
 

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? Canister Closure valve stuck open

I checked the small lines ,look ok. I would to check the ?Canister Closure valve to see if it is stuck open , Where is it located ?
 
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