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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In preparation for an engine rebuild, I removed my ’05 Elise engine last Sunday. Removal was surprisingly easy, no major problems. It is time consuming – around 8 hours in total. I moved very slow, labeling and documenting everything. This is not intended to be a complete detailed guide, rather a general overview. Also, I am not an expert – this is my first engine removal.

*First, a couple safety precautions - sufficiently block the front wheels, set the parking brake and disconnect the battery. We don’t want any fires when the fuel line is disconnected.

*Remove the rear clam. Mine is hinged and has quick releases – it’s off in < 2 min.

*Drain the engine oil.

*I’m not re-using the stock header – I cut the breather tube with a hack saw to make header removal easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
*Begin labeling coolant lines. I’m not an expert – accordingly I labeled EVERYTHING and took over 50 pictures of the process. I used plastic sandwich bags to store components, bolts, etc. All bolts were labeled for ease of identification.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
*Label all harness connections – a Sharpie works well.

*Begin disconnecting vacuum and coolant lines. Some don’t need to be disconnected – I left the throttle body on the engine which allows some lines to stay connected. Disconnect the rubber boot from the throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
*Disconnect the harness. There are several connections on the left side and top (fuel, spark) of the engine. One of the connections is on the backside of the engine and not readily accessible until the engine is lifted from the car. I think this is the knock sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
*Remove the drive belt.
*Disconnect the AC compressor from the engine (three fixing bolts, I think). IMPORTANT – do not remove the AC hose from the compressor! There is enough flexibility in the rubber hose to move the compressor away from the engine and zip tie out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
*Remove the Transmission to Engine bolts – there are 8 bolts in total. The two bolts closest to the cockpit also serve as fixing bolts for the starter. The starter will fall off (watch your head) when you remove the two bolts. Starter fixing bolts are accessible from underneath the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
*Remove the chassis to engine mount bracket. If I recall, there are eight bolts and some are only accessible from underneath the car. The bracket MUST be removed to allow enough side to side movement, otherwise the flywheel and clutch assembly will not clear the transmission housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
*Gently pry the transmission housing from the engine. There are a couple of pins preventing a vertical separation from the transmission. CAREFULLY hoist the engine. You cannot move too slowly at this point – the engine should come out easily. If it doesn’t, look for the cause.

Oh, almost forgot. Disconnect the engine knock sensor – it’s the last connection that severs the engine from the harness!
Here’s what’s left in the engine bay and the 2zz on a stand:
 

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