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Discussion Starter #21
The next phase is complete engine tear down and rebuild with Darton sleeves, Crower rods, Mahle low compression pistions, etc. If there's any interest, I'll post a similiar thread on my progress. I've never done this before, should be interesting... ;)
 

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Will give you advanced warning when you go to re-install, make sure you hook up the wires and hoses that go up under the intake while you are lowering the engine into place. Total bitch to get to once the motor is back on its mounts. I learned the hard way and actually pulled the motor back up again to get them connected. Added a couple hours on my re-install.

Why did I pull my motor???? I totally disassembled my Elise last winter for the fun of it. Wanted to see how they put it together, see where I could shave a bit of weight and make sure everything was correct for the coming track season. What can I say, I like playing with cars.
 

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I am in total awe of you people :clap::clap: Today I changed the spark plugs NGK 3764 and last week removed the snorkel. I feel like a million bucks. Even bought some Mechanics gloves - look like a total dork but loving every minute. I never grew up messing with cars so they are a complete mystery. At the young age of 60 I'm just now starting my love of cars in my retirement. My Elise makes me smile just looking at it. You guys are my heroes and I can't get enough of your posts. Thanks :bow::bow:
 

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MaineLotus - how about a pic of the rear clam hinges and rough idea about how you did it? Does the clam rattle? Several of us are very interested. Thanks for any info
 

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You can also leave the entire "engine harness" on the engine. Disconnect at the ecu. On assembly it can be easier to do this so you can be sure all inaccessible plugs are secure.:):up:
 

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MaineLotus - how about a pic of the rear clam hinges and rough idea about how you did it? Does the clam rattle? Several of us are very interested. Thanks for any info
+1

Please don't wait until Spring... this could make a great Winter project for some of us!
 

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Great post! :clap:

I am VERY interested in the hinged clam!!

Possible things to consider for next time:

1. Leave the harness on the engine and unplug at ECU like Brent said

2. Possibly leave the engine connected to the transmission and drop the entire assembly out the bottom (including the axles). I'm not sure if this is possible or faster on the Elise yet. I did it about 50 times on various MR2s though.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
A lot of interest in the clam hinges. They're easy to make, but there are a few hurdles, it's a lot more work than it appears and is probably why no one (like Sector111) has offered them:

Battery must be moved - I moved my battery (Odyssey PC680) into the cabin, behind the passenger seat on the accessory shelf. The existing battery cables are relocated, the length is perfect! And the cables route nicely behind the rear plastic cover. A bonus is the battery weight is moved forward and offsets some driver weight.

Wheel Well Liners - Must be attached to either the clam or frame, but not both. So, there are additional supports & brackets I had to design.

Rear Diffuser - I had to build an aluminum frame to support the diffuser. My muffler area is open, the OEM metal grate is removed. So, my diffuser is supported entirely by the car's frame, it is no longer attached to the rear clam.

Roll Bar Cover - Requires cutting :eek:. Yup, cutting of the fiberglass body work. Not many people are willing to do this. Additionally, holes are drilled down into the cabin to make way for quick release pins that secure the rollbar cover/clam. The qr pins are released from within the cabin area.

Engine Lid Cover - The two hinges on the engine lid are bolted through the rear clam and into the lower body work. A slight rework/reinforcement is required here.

Top/Center Brake Light - wiring must be lengthened and rerouted.

Lower Body Work - Reinforcement and cutting is required to compensate for the bolts removed that fasten the upper portion of the rear clam to the lower panels below the side scoops. Some of the trim has to be cut into two pieces - namely the long black trim piece that outlines the side scoops.

You can see that the hinges are a small part of hinging the rear clam. My rear clam is very solid, no vibration or cracking - as solid as OEM. It takes around 10 seconds to swing the clam open which is great for engine work. < 2 minutes to completely remove the clam - pull 4 pins and one electrical connection (rear brake/directionals) and remove!

I don't have CAD drawings of the hinges - I cut them from 3/8" aluminum plate using a hacksaw and a LOT of patience.

-John
 

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Discussion Starter #36
You can also leave the entire "engine harness" on the engine. Disconnect at the ecu. On assembly it can be easier to do this so you can be sure all inaccessible plugs are secure.:):up:
Excellent, thanks for the suggestion. I think I will remove the harness from the engine area and reattach to the engine before reinstalling.
 
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