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Discussion Starter #1
So here is my delema. I had the Proalloy water to air chargecooler installed. Works great, charge temps are way down. Buy...the heat exchanger for the charge cooler is mounted in front of the engine radiator which means the airflow thru the front of the car has to pass first thru the charge cooler heat exchanger, then the the AC condenser, then, finally, it gets to the engine radiator. Proalloy provides a new, larger, aluminum engine raditator to offset this potential engine cooling issue, but guess what, it getsb a lot hotter in Socal than in England. Ronin suggested I install a lower (160 degree) thermostat which will open sooner and get things cooling down more quickly.
Here's the reality (so far). The thermostat does get things cooled down quickly. Maybe too much so. When I am traveling at speed (freeways) and there is consistant, high speed air being forced thru all three heat exchangers, the car runs (I'm told) TOO cold (170 - 176). According to the dealer, the engine temps should be in the 195 to 205 range to optimally heat the oil and combust the fuel mixture. What are some thoughts about this? I live in LA. I would be interested in how cool your cars regularly safely ran in some cold winters on the east coast or Canada. Can any of you remember?

My other delema is that when I'm running at slower speeds (stop and go traffic), canyons, It gets TOO hot (up to 219) from not enough air being driven hard thru all 3 exchangers.Charlie says ECU starts to retard timing @ 200 :0 ...I'm working on this issue but I want to make sure I'm safe on the low end first. Any thoughts?
 

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The expiriences we have overhere is that actually the Exige S (and the 2-11) is overcooled. On normal days we actually see a rapid temp drop when suddenly accelerating in such a way that sometimes it affects the RPM limiter. I know of a case where actually someone spunn in the while overtaking in the left lane.

There are several ways to get better cooling. Ever thought bout changing the coolant mixture?? More water and less coolant is a better combo for summer. Change to more coolant and less water in winter.

It's a cheap way to find out if this works for you.
 

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The charge temps are down compared to what?
How are you taking the measurement?

The 160* thermostat is for race purposes. It will make the engine run rich -- warm-up mode -- on the street.
 

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:shrug: Didn't you write in another thread: "...I dont have the temp gauge to measure the pre intercooler charge temp (or the engine bay temps for that matter) and, frankly, too damn lazy to go buy the stuff to figure it out myself..." :shrug:
 

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When I am traveling at speed (freeways) and there is consistant, high speed air being forced thru all three heat exchangers, the car runs (I'm told) TOO cold (170 - 176). According to the dealer, the engine temps should be in the 195 to 205 range to optimally heat the oil and combust the fuel mixture.
176 is still fine. My Honda engine runs at a little higher in steady-state.

My other delema is that when I'm running at slower speeds (stop and go traffic), canyons, It gets TOO hot (up to 219) from not enough air being driven hard thru all 3 exchangers.
I don't see the problem? When moving slowly or not moving at all it's totally normal for the coolant temperature to go up. There's simply not enough air flowing naturally through the rads because of the movement of the car.

Once it hits the trigger point set in the ECU for the fans they will kick in and bring the temperature down to their shutoff point.

It should 'cycle' between these upper and lower bound temperatures constantly in slow moving traffic.

You only have a problem when the fans kick in, but the temperatures do *not* drop a little while after that (mayt still increase a little because of the long pipes) and it starts to creep up to 240F.. But that does not happen, right?

Bye, Arno.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
:shrug: Didn't you write in another thread: "...I dont have the temp gauge to measure the pre intercooler charge temp (or the engine bay temps for that matter) and, frankly, too damn lazy to go buy the stuff to figure it out myself..." :shrug:
But I do have very sensitive hands (or so my wife tells me) so when I touched the post intercooler tube on the OEM unit and I burned my hand and I now touch the same tube (with the proallot chargecooler) and it feels literally cooler than ambient (after a hard run) I think I can say that the chargecooler is working. Not scientific, but cool is cool and hot is hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
176 is still fine. My Honda engine runs at a little higher in steady-state.



I don't see the problem? When moving slowly or not moving at all it's totally normal for the coolant temperature to go up. There's simply not enough air flowing naturally through the rads because of the movement of the car.
Bye, Arno.
The problem is that, according to Charlie and others, the ecu starts to retard the timing at temps over 200 (more so after 210) which effectively negates the benefits of the chargecooler.
 

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The problem is that, according to Charlie and others, the ecu starts to retard the timing at temps over 200 (more so after 210) which effectively negates the benefits of the chargecooler.
Yes? So? As you're driving slowly you're not using the extra power anyway?

Once the road clears and you can get the car up to speed again the temperature should drop pretty rapidly on both the engine cooling circuit and the chargecooler circuit and the ECU should allow more timing advance again.

(if it permanently retards the timing in the maps then that's just braindead and I can't imagine it does that...)

Unless you have the ECU switch on the fans to try to keep the coolant temperature below 200F all the time it's a behaviour you can't change with radiator upgrades/mods/etc. as the coolling effect of air passing through the rad simply isn't there in slow moving traffic and your coolant temperature *will* rise..

But it will drop just as fast once you get up to speed again...

Bye, Arno.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes? So? As you're driving slowly you're not using the extra power anyway?

Once the road clears and you can get the car up to speed again the temperature should drop pretty rapidly on both the engine cooling circuit and the chargecooler circuit and the ECU should allow more timing advance again.

Unless you have the ECU switch on the fans to try to keep the coolant temperature below 200F all the time it's a behaviour you can't change with radiator upgrades/mods/etc. as the coolling effect of air passing through the rad simply isn't there in slow moving traffic and your coolant temperature *will* rise..

But it will drop just as fast once you get up to speed again...

Bye, Arno.
"Once the road clears"? ? I'm concerned about track driving where driving is at high RPM's from corner to corner with only one or two short straights to BEGIN to cool the engine, before another corner arrives. My desire is to get suggestions as to how to lower slow speed, high RPM engine temps...not waiting for the road to clear.
 

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Randy,

On track, you should get plenty of air flow -- it shouldn't be anything like what you are experiencing in stop and go traffic.

If you see 210+ water temps on track...something is wrong with the stacking setup for our summer months track duty. We'll have to do some testing at BW. If you are worried about the track weekend, do your less coolant/more water mix and add water wetter.

As for too cold, there is a point at which that can present problems...I'd have to defer to a "knowledgeable" factory source, whether that's a dealer, who knows. I definitely don't think that 195-205 is the ideal range. It may be more than acceptable, but I'd prefer to see a range of 183-193 for water temps. It's also important for the oil temps to occasionally get over the 212 mark for obvious reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Randy,

On track, you should get plenty of air flow -- it shouldn't be anything like what you are experiencing in stop and go traffic.
Well, I did a canyon run for about 30 minutes, average speed 40 to 50 and temps also got pretty high. (215 or so). Dumb question, where/ how do I drain water from the radiator without removing the clam?
 

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Randy,

On track, you should get plenty of air flow -- it shouldn't be anything like what you are experiencing in stop and go traffic.

If you see 210+ water temps on track...something is wrong with the stacking setup for our summer months track duty. We'll have to do some testing at BW. If you are worried about the track weekend, do your less coolant/more water mix and add water wetter.

As for too cold, there is a point at which that can present problems...I'd have to defer to a "knowledgeable" factory source, whether that's a dealer, who knows. I definitely don't think that 195-205 is the ideal range. It may be more than acceptable, but I'd prefer to see a range of 183-193 for water temps. It's also important for the oil temps to occasionally get over the 212 mark for obvious reasons.

I've seen 220+ when NA at the track.
 

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I've seen 220+ when NA at the track.
I know...but that's not normal. I've only seen your car and Franks hit those high temps last summer at the same track day. I've driven many different Loti on 107 degree days and have not seen any other cars get that hot, FWIW.
 

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Randy,

On track, you should get plenty of air flow -- it shouldn't be anything like what you are experiencing in stop and go traffic.

If you see 210+ water temps on track...something is wrong with the stacking setup for our summer months track duty. We'll have to do some testing at BW. If you are worried about the track weekend, do your less coolant/more water mix and add water wetter.

As for too cold, there is a point at which that can present problems...I'd have to defer to a "knowledgeable" factory source, whether that's a dealer, who knows. I definitely don't think that 195-205 is the ideal range. It may be more than acceptable, but I'd prefer to see a range of 183-193 for water temps. It's also important for the oil temps to occasionally get over the 212 mark for obvious reasons.

+1:)
 

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I was told 190 was optimum running temp.
 
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