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the older Ford 4.6 engines were physically huge....... as large as the Old BOss 429 "Shotgun" motor.

I'd go a different route than the old 4.6. The COyote is similar to the 4.6, but I think it is a bit more compact.
 

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A ford 302 is fairly small, based on the 289. With a hairy azz cam, and some head work, can make plenty of power. And pretty cheap, since there were a bunch in the fox body mustangs. One sold locally last week on craigslist for $300, and a T5 tremic with the bell housing, clutch stuff, everything needed, for $400. That sure looked like a good setup for one of my elites.

LS4 chevy is the smallest (shortest) of the LS chevy's, used in grand prix and such. Or the 3800 supercharged GM v6.

Brian
 

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A ford 302 is fairly small, based on the 289. With a hairy azz cam, and some head work, can make plenty of power. And pretty cheap, since there were a bunch in the fox body mustangs. One sold locally last week on craigslist for $300, and a T5 tremic with the bell housing, clutch stuff, everything needed, for $400. That sure looked like a good setup for one of my elites.

LS4 chevy is the smallest (shortest) of the LS chevy's, used in grand prix and such. Or the 3800 supercharged GM v6.

Brian
I have always thought going with a high revving, solid roller lifter 302 based build would be awesome.
 

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I have put a 2006 Cobalt LSJ into a 1986 Lotus Esprit. have the engine and tranny fitted. got the electronics sorted...now need to do the fuel and exhaust
 

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There is a company here in San Antonio that is getting 1100hp out of the 20B.

I would be concerned about the weight of the 3 rotor and the heat the flame throwing SOB would be putting out.

Hate for it to burn the car down.

Love the Hartley, but they are not what you would call reliable for road use. Expect it to need to be freshened up on a regular basis. John told me a couple of years ago that he was working on a twin turbo variant that would make 1000+hp. Plus that is one expensive lump. Then too, you would need a Sadev or better transaxle and that's not cheap either. By the time your done you could have bought half a dozen LS9's. If the fact that your going to be rebuilding it once every couple years doesn't bother you why not just by a used f1 engine or a Judd or cosworth and rev limit it for durability to say <12,000 match velocity stacks and headers for best torque in your range and drive it.

Personally, if I had the money to burn on a swap for an Esprit I'd go with the v10 audi and the UGR TT.

I love seeing what people have accomplished with these things.
Keep dreaming and posting...
 

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Discussion Starter #114 (Edited)
THE THING ABOUT THE NORTHSTAR ENGINE

It is a wonderfull powerfull powerplant which fits Esprit engine bay.
It was originally conceived as a high-performance engine to compete against German-made luxury sports cars. It had evolved from the Corvette LT5 all-aluminum V-8 designed for Chevrolet by Lotus. It has since become the V-8 powerplant of choice for General Motors.
A supercharged 4.4-liter version was developed exclusively for the 2006 to 2008 Cadillac XLR-V and STS-V models. The supercharged XLR-V generates 443 horsepower while the STS-V version produced 469 horsepower.

Read more: Cadillac Northstar Engine Basics | eHow

It could be easily hopped up to 600-700HP (ZF box needed)

Anyone considering conversion, please read this:
Worth it for Aurora 4.0 Northstar / 4T80E?


GM didn't fix the NorthStar block(that goes for ALL of them 3.5,4.0,4.6) until 2004. The early NorthStars 92.5-1999 used a short fine pitched head bolt (same bolt as the Quad4) and almost all of these engine will have the headbolts pull out of the block (just like a Quad4) and will need a VERY expensive head bolt project completed... On these cars the car is removed from the engine... Failed head gasket fix at the dealer with proper replacement head bolt studs or timeserts will cost $5000 and up.

Then, in 2000 (after only 8 years !) GM realized that they had a problem and replaced the short fine pitch head bolts with longer fine pitched head bolts. These engines (3.5,4.0 and 4.6) are considerably better then the early design... but are by NO MEANS bullet proof... There are still LOTS of reported head bolt failures and half case leaks in these years too. Again... cost to fix $5000 and up.

In 2004 (of course the Aurora was already dead at that point), GM realized that they STILL had a problem and replaced the long fine pitched bolts with long coarse pitched bolts (very much like the bolts on the LSx engines) and the problem is MUCH less now.. though there have been reports of failed head bolts on 2004-current NorthStarts too.

You'd be better driving the donor car (if driveable) before buying the engine. You need to do some homework...
1) Drive the car until it gets to operating temperature, preferably up and down some steep hills... with the A/C on... Watch the temp gauge... if the needle moves off of straight up RUN from the car
2) Buy a exhaust/coolant test kit from Pepboys (or where have you) and test the antifreeze for exhaust gases.. (any quality mechanic can do this for you) If there is any evidence of blow by in the coolant RUN from the car
3) Ask to see all of the service records for the car... look specifically for coolant servicing. You want to see the coolant being serviced every other year.. at a minimum... If the car has gone 5 years between coolant changes...or if the first and only one was just done.. RUN from the car.
4) Have a mechanic run a compression check and leak-down check on the motor (they should do that for you for less then $200). If any cylinder is widely different from the others... Well you know the drill
5) Lastly the Transmission on these cars has its quirks too. Look for a tranny leak out of the driver's side output shaft... any leak here means that the support bearing for the output shaft has shattered (a very common problem) and the transmission is on its last legs. ... you know Run.

Oh one last thing... if the car has an intermittent stall on warm up. That is also very common on 2000-2003 cars. That is the Crank Sensors... Those are easy and cheap to replace.

 

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Am I the only one who's concerned that a good 20b costs $20,000 or so for the engine alone?

Not to mention, having owned three rotary cars at this point, this is the LAST engine I would want to put into a car that is already maintenance intensive.

The motor in the car is good for 450ish whp from what I've seen on here (assuming your transmission doesn't explode) . . . . . if you need more than that, you should first question your own neediness, and second go and buy a different car.
 
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