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Discussion Starter #1
I would like to schedule some dyno time at a friend's shop to compare the base 400 power to the Komo Tec EV4-435 reflash that I have installed (I can switch back and forth between the tunes via my laptop). The dyno is a 2WD Mustang dyno.

1) Can the 400 be tested on a 2WD dyno or will the fact that the front wheels aren't turning cause issues with the ECU?

2) I watched JayEmm's dyno video and his car wouldn't rev past 6600rpm - was that a result of it being on a 2WD dyno?

3) Do any undertray panels need to be removed to strap it down?

4) Anything else I need to know about dynoing an Evora 400?

Thank you in advance guys!
 

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shay2nak
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Any dyno for RWD cars will be fine. Front wheels don’t have to move.

His car probably wasn’t fully warmed up yet to rev passed 6600.

They will likely strap down the car using the control arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey shay2nak - thank you for the comments. JayEmm's dyno was done at Hangar 111, which is one of the most knowledgeable Lotus shops in the world so I would be surprised if it was something as minor as not being warmed up sufficiently. He mentioned at the end of the video that they weren't sure why it stopped pulling at 6600rpm but that it might have to do with a power limiter when it senses being on a dyno. I have posted on the other forum and maybe JayEmm can chime in.
 

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Illegal Alien
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Hey shay2nak - thank you for the comments. JayEmm's dyno was done at Hangar 111, which is one of the most knowledgeable Lotus shops in the world so I would be surprised if it was something as minor as not being warmed up sufficiently. He mentioned at the end of the video that they weren't sure why it stopped pulling at 6600rpm but that it might have to do with a power limiter when it senses being on a dyno. I have posted on the other forum and maybe JayEmm can chime in.
We dyno'd on BOE Fabrications 2-wheel dyno. Without the front wheels rotating, car does not run in sport mode and traction control error limits RPM' to about 6600, in later years (2016) Phil got my car to 7100, but by this time BOE had access to full ECU editing and control, so i'm sure he just temporarily overrode the limits.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well there we go - that's good to know, Julian73!

Any knowledge about using a 4 wheel dyno? I would imagine that could solve the issue, right? I honestly don't want to waste my time if a 2 wheel dyno won't give me complete results.
 

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Acme Super Moderator ** The Enforcer **
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Well there we go - that's good to know, Julian73!

Any knowledge about using a 4 wheel dyno? I would imagine that could solve the issue, right? I honestly don't want to waste my time if a 2 wheel dyno won't give me complete results.
No, a four-wheel dyno is for a four-wheel/all-wheel drive vehicle. A two-wheel dyno is what you want.

San
 

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Illegal Alien
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Well there we go - that's good to know, Julian73!

Any knowledge about using a 4 wheel dyno? I would imagine that could solve the issue, right? I honestly don't want to waste my time if a 2 wheel dyno won't give me complete results.
A 4-wheel dyno still has an issue in that you will need to spin the front roller to roll the tires, maybe that is a standard alternative operating mode of a 4-wheel dyne, other than the standard assumption that all wheels will be driving.

A 2-wheel dyne with runs up to 6600 is good enough, torque is falling, and power is only slightly increasing and only if the car has a freezer flowing exhaust (headers). running and tuning on a 2-wheel is not a waste.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dynojet and others offer 4 wheel dynos in which the front and rear rollers can be linked for exactly the reason we are talking about - wheel speed differences causing ECU freakouts.

I want a full picture up to the rev limiter. JMS Tuning is not far from me so I will check with them - they do a ton of GTRs, Evos, STIs along with Corvettes, Camaros, etc.
 

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No, a four-wheel dyno is for a four-wheel/all-wheel drive vehicle. A two-wheel dyno is what you want.

San
Some of the newer single-drive-axle vehicles freak out on normal dynos. For example, it's impossible to run our Abarth 500 on a typical dyno since the car sees a wheel speed difference between front and rear and then cuts power. It takes a specialized dyno that spins both axles at the same rate to get a proper run in.
 

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Some of the newer single-drive-axle vehicles freak out on normal dynos. For example, it's impossible to run our Abarth 500 on a typical dyno since the car sees a wheel speed difference between front and rear and then cuts power. It takes a specialized dyno that spins both axles at the same rate to get a proper run in.
Didn't realize that. My former C6 and current Exige S were only ever on a two-wheel drive dyno, but obviously they're older cars. I'm surprised there isn't some way to disengage the functionality temporarily.

San
 

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Not a 400 , but rear wheel only turning on my S. Turn off tc and make sure the steering wheel is straight, turn on sport mode.

Some runs testing air box configs. 6800 ish rpm seen. Figures are taken at the wheel ( bolted on to the hub)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you guys for posting up those charts and all of the other information! I have dyno'd various cars and motorcycles over the years but this one doesn't seem as straightforward all the way around!

Bruss and Julian73 - do you recall if the dyno operators had to take any undertray panels off for the straps? To my eyes, it looks like the suspension is exposed enough to be used as strapping points. I am trying to save the dyno shop some time (and money) so that if panels need to come off, I will do it at home and then take the car over to the dyno.
 

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No undertrays were removed. However mine wasn't strapped down. The wheels are removed and the hub dyno is attached directly to the hub replacing the wheels. In this way the hubs are suspended above the floor by the dyno itself.

The main thing, as you probably know, is that if making comparison runs keep an eye on intake temps.
 

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I had the same issue today, it wouldn't rev over 6800rpm. And my buddy just bought the dyno, so we are still trying to figure it out. Not sure how accurate the HP numbers are.
 

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shay2nak
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interesting... fully warmed up?

I forgot to say to also turn off the traction control.
 

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interesting... fully warmed up?

I forgot to say to also turn off the traction control.
Yes, it was fully warmed up, 45 minute drive (mix of highway/stop and go) to my buddy's shop, in TX where ambient temps were 80-85°F.

It consistently held the 6800RPM red line, ESP was commanded off, but kept interfering, so that leads me to believe I didn't turn it off correctly. (put it in Race mode, then push the race button for 1 sec) Eventually the ABS light and ESP OFF lights were illuminated and stayed on.

After I do the exhaust/intake mods, then I'll be back on the dyno and try the ESP off again.
 
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