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Discussion Starter #21
This is a 6.5 inch Focal speaker installed on another 400 in my area. The installer sent me the pics to show me how it would look. They did have to trim the existing hole to get it to fit of course. And build a custom fabricated fiberglass speaker mounting plate to allow upgraded 6.5” speaker size.






Those 6.5” look pretty good installed. The edges are past the door grill but not that much. I measured it would be about .5” and wondered if it would affect it and vibrate the plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I have a 2017 Evora 400. I don't know much about car audio. Aside from a 1976 Triumph that I have been restoring and putting a Grom bluetooth adapter in my wife's Mercedes SL I have not owned a car with an after market audio system for about 15 years. But I do know that my Evora sounds terrible compared to the system in the Mercedes E class wagon I drive everyday.

The subwoofer doesn't work which I assume is because the amplifier fuse has blown.
I will have to fix that and while I am in there I was thinking about replacing the speaker itself. Also what causes the fuse on the subwoofer amplifier to blow- I don't want this to happen again. Would it be prudent to also replace the subwoofer amplifier while I am in there? If so what would I replace it with?

For the subwoofer itself, would something like this fit/work for me?
Alpine S-W8D2

I also agree that the door speakers are really weak. A friend recommended these:
Focal RCX-130
Would they also fit and work with the head unit?

If I put this kind of 2 way speaker in the door do I need to do anything about the stock tweeters in the a pillar or should I just go all in and replace those (and then go with component speakers). If I do that then presumably I need to install crossovers?

I'm comfortable doing the work myself- I just need to make sure I buy the right components.
That sub will work fine. I’d upgrade there amp while you’re in there though. The Alpine T200 is only 200 amps. It’d work but it wouldn’t hit hard enough for me. The labor getting in there is the hard part.
I personally wouldn’t go with coaxial speakers. The point of component ones is to separate out the tweeters for a better sound. Most higher end systems do that. Then they use a good crossover and processor to tune the door speakers to do more of the mid range sounds. And the tweeters to help handle vocals and such. The sub is factory tuned down to 40Hz which is way too low for that tiny 8” factory sub. I used the Alpine Tune it Amp to take that up to 100Hz. If you set the speakers to the rear R-08 you hear a lot more of the factory sub come through. It makes it a ton better but still not that great.
 

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That is all very helpful. If I buy component speakers are the tweeters a standard size? Is it simple to remove the factory tweeters from the A-pillar? I assume that in the stock set up the speakers are driven directly from the headunit. Is there any benefit to adding an after market amplifier for the speakers and if so could I just get one that would also drive the subwoofer or does that need its own dedicated amplifier? If so then what would you suggest for the subwoofer amplifier? Can I use the stock speaker wires or is there any reason to replace these? Thanks again for your help.
 

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That is all very helpful. If I buy component speakers are the tweeters a standard size? Is it simple to remove the factory tweeters from the A-pillar? I assume that in the stock set up the speakers are driven directly from the headunit. Is there any benefit to adding an after market amplifier for the speakers and if so could I just get one that would also drive the subwoofer or does that need its own dedicated amplifier? If so then what would you suggest for the subwoofer amplifier? Can I use the stock speaker wires or is there any reason to replace these? Thanks again for your help.
A morel or jl 400/4 amp will drive the new sub, mid range and tweeters separately. Other amps are available and yes it will be of benefit. If you are putting in upgraded components then add in upgraded speaker wire. Also add in some proper sound insulation for the doors and sub mounting area.

It is easy to replace all of the parts. Everything comes apart, but then again everything needs to come apart. It is time consuming. Allow a day to take it all out and another day to put it all back together. If you haven't done it before then allow another day for problems and thinking time.
 

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What is the best place to mount the amplifier?
I have put mine in the rear by the sub, where the original sub only amlifier was.
It does mean you will need new cables. One set from the hu back to the amp, then another set from the amp back down to the front speakers. Keep in mind I have an S1 not a 400 but I imagine the same space is available.
 

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Yes, my 400 has the subwoofer and subwoofer amplfier- of course they don't work now- but there should be space for an after market amp and presumably there is already power there that I can use.l So then I just need to run RCA cables from the head unit for the front speakers and subwoofer and then back to the speakers.
 

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I did a full audio system upgrade on my 2011 Evora back in 2012 after owning about a year. A buddy and I did the install ourselves. This included build a custom fiberglass sub enclosure. I had built out a square test box for testing cubic volume first for sound and fit. I choose a Kenwood 8" shallow mount sub the fit best. I ended up with a full Kenwood system as I wanted to have an OEM feel versus mix match components. The end result I am happy with. I can tell you I shopped have the sub enclosure custom made by some local shops and all the prices for that alone were around $800. I ended up mounting the AMP just under and behind the front passenger seat and it can't be seen with out moving the seat, but gave me easy access for tuning. It is a 4 channel bridged to 3 channel. I will post pictures following this post...
 

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I like the idea of putting the amplifier under the seat for accessibility. This is highly impressive- thanks for posting.
 
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