[invictusmaneo]

So I have alluded to this in a few other threads, talked with two different service departments, two different aftermarket vendors..and there still seems to be no solution.


Lots of backstory, but in a nutshell I was having consistent pulsing issues with my brakes. The pads were fusing to the rotors after a wash, and it was just a snowball effect as every time I washed it it got worse, and the lip just slowly built up more pad material causing it to get worse and worse. My purchasing dealership was unable to solve the problem. When I got out here to FL, I attempted to address it by swapping pads for new Ferodo DS2500s from OEM, and having the rotors resurfaced JUST enough on a ProCut lathe (on car) to remove the ridge. This solved the problem temporarily, but after the next wash, and every heavy rain storm where my car was in the parking lot, it would happen again.


To make things worse, the humidity out here seemed to exacerbate the problem. The dealer out here was sort of baffled too, and we went about sanding the pads flat (just a bit of material) and again resurfacing the rotors JUST enough to get the bump out. Problem came right back.

Well I had gotten tired of it all and was about to make a massive round of improvements to the car, so in the process decided to install BOE's full floating front rotors and switch Pads again to see if that would help. I decided to go with Hawk High Performance ceramics to see if they would avoid fusing being non-metallic, and keep the Ferodos for high-perf needs to swap out.

This seemed to work but the Hawks were terrible-not only did they overheat WAY too fast and lose stopping power, the stopping power wasn't much good and they made a terrible squeaking noise on the slots of the new rotors. It wasn't your typical pad squeal, but this pulsing wail. And this was with a proper bed-in procedure. They glazed over every few days with street driving too, and would require a heat cycle to take the glaze off, only to glaze over again and make the racket and suck at stopping. It was horrible. Maybe for a light duty street pad, as the car is still quite a potent braking car, but for anything performance wise they are not the answer. Plus they have less pad material (chamfered front and rear edges)

So I got fed up with them and the other day swapped back to the DS2500s after sanding enough of the dirty surface off again, and bedding them in properly. I used ceramic high temp anti-seize/squeal crud on the backing plates, and the install went smooth. Bedded them in and they didn't fade an ounce and stopped really well. My ABS seems to be pretty aggressive, it alway shas, and these pads grip so well it seems more noticeable, but the car STOPS as expected.


Washed my car today...and the rotors rusted over from the pad material and the pads LIGHTLY fused to the rotors. Just an easy pop and no extra gas required backing out of my garage. Having been through this before, after the wash was done I took the car on a low speed drive aroun dmy complex (15-20 mph) with the brakes lightly applied to get off the rust, and to slowly warm them up and remove the material...then 4 30 mph-5 mph firm stops, and there didn't seem to be any pulsing or odd noises.


I park in the lot for work tonight, look at the rotor surface, and the pad marks are visible, and if I use my fingernail, i can feel a veeeery slight bump at the edge. I know this problem is going to come back all over again.







SOoooooo now that you have read my novel..any tips? :shrug:

I am going to buy a hair drier to see if that helps, and it will help with the washes..but it doesn't solve my big problem. I live in FL. Rain is inevitable.


I may try swapping pads again, but spending 500 bucks on the HPS+ only to have the metallic pads do the same thing isn't very appetizing.

 

[Vulcan Grey]

Well, stop getting the rotors surfaced. As you noticed it only helps for a very short period of time, and it only making the rotors thinner and worse over time.

The rust should come off with some aggressive stops, like a mini bedding in. As you saw with the last paragraph, it did.

If you had problems with the Hawks, then it sounds like you are braking hard enough that you don't wan ta gentle street pad, but the Porterfield R4S don't dust, and have no bite, and probably don't rust (as far as I have noticed... ).

Seems like you like the combo of the Ferodo DS2500 and BOE slotted rotors, so I would stick with those. The slots should help clean the pad, which helps clean the rotor... The original drilled rotors aren't a great idea for this reason.

 

[invictusmaneo]

I switched to the BOEs-haven't touched them. The resurfacing was based on both Sector111 and both dealer's recommendations simply to narrow the cause down and was done on the OE rotors.

Mini bedding in doesn't totally help. It mitigates it, but the problem always reoccurs. That is my frustration as it eventually builds right back up. And this isn't just every time I wash-during the summers here I would have this problem every other day.

I am sticking with the BOE rotors, and I like the DS2500 overall. Those with the ATE fluid makes a nice braking combo. But I just fear the shuddering will get as dramatic (and really really noticeable, as in 1" wobble in the steering wheel under light-med braking) as it was last time with the OE rotors and the same pads.

 

[rhoyle]

My Evora has terrible pulsing at low speed stops, like when rolling up to a stop sign behind someone or in traffic at a light. The brakes also make unpleasant noises, but they seem to stop the car pretty well. Compared to my Cayman, though, it seems easier to get the ABS to kick in. I've not done anything yet to address this but am interested in what others have found out.

 

[brgelise]

1. Stock pads do fuse. If you routinely nail brakes from high speed and do almost complete stop it will wear that off but after a while I got same issue. Switched to DTC70's which are a VERY high end endurance race pad. Dust is brutal but so is stopping power. Tons of options out there. Bottom line, these cars were equipped to be driven hard and don't do well when babied in many ways. BTW the DTC 70 did the rebedding for me. NOTHING wrong with the rotors. Anyone pulls there stock rotors I'll gladly pay shipping for them

 

[rhoyle]

So what have Evora owners found to be a good pad for mostly street driving and only occasional track use? I'd rather not deal with a ton of dust and squealing!

 

[Plackslayer]

I love my DTC-70's...

 

[brgelise]

DTC70's

Braking to pop eyes out check
Dust check
Squeal check.

Stock pads are hard to beat for street use.

 

[invictusmaneo]

until they constantly fuse to you rotors

 

[S4Denver]

I see EBC makes the "stuff" series for the Evora, has anyone tried these or have input?

 

[Jack FFR1846]

I don't know what is causing this issue but from many years on the track and running into almost every brake problem ever, wanted to comment.

HP+ are track pads. They're not agressive, but they take heat to work.
HPS are essentially Hawk's oem-like pad.

Before buying EBC, talk with Luke at Tire Rack. When considering them one time, he quickly changed my mind about even trying them.

On a street car that does occational track duty, It's a good idea to have a dedicated set of rotors and pads. I've run Hawk blues, HP+ and Carbotech (not on an evora). I found the Carbotechs to be the best. I called them and asked THEM what to run for the track. Know your car's weight before you call.

Good luck.