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Discussion Starter #21
Nope, not stupid at all. Now that I see you don't have the rear defroster anymore, it should just be the CHMSL and tailgate switch in the connector bundle that's near the passenger side hatch hinge. IIRC, they're mounted near the angled reinforcing bar. Try disconnecting those 2 connectors, leave them disconnected and go through your test scenario again.
Just undid all the connections tied to the hatch and made the hatch think it's closed with the screw driver. Cluster is still staying on. Ugh
 

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That's so bizarre, since the only thing you changed was the rear hatch, and it was working correctly prior to that?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Correct... I went through and checked to make sure their are no shorts anywhere too. I have no idea what it could be. The cluster started showing the software gibberish and stays on after being in park. Sometimes it doesn't show which gear I'm in correctly now as well. But after driving for a little bit that goes away. But the staying on part is my biggest issue as I don't want the cluster to burn out nor the battery to die.
That's so bizarre, since the only thing you changed was the rear hatch, and it was working correctly prior to that?
Correct... I went through and checked to make sure their are no shorts anywhere too. I have no idea what it could be. The cluster started showing the software gibberish and stays on after being in park. Sometimes it doesn't show which gear I'm in correctly now as well.... But after driving for a little bit that goes away. But the staying on part is my biggest issue as I don't want the cluster to burn out nor the battery to die.
 

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Circling back around to CO's post, could it be low voltage from the battery? What's the age on it? Not having a solid power source has been known to cause all sorts of weirdness.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Circling back around to CO's post, could it be low voltage from the battery? What's the age on it? Not having a solid power source has been known to cause all sorts of weirdness.
I
It's at least 3yrs old, not sure if older. It was in the car when I bought it used. It does show a full charge (100%) on my battery charger, but I have seen where that doesn't always mean anything with other cars. I do use a tender and have it on there right now, with the negative off the battery. I might just buy a new one to be safe. Any recommendations? I'm willing to try anything to get this right. Thanks again.
 

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I went with an Interstate MTP -91/T6 for my last one. Even though mine is always on a tender, it just hit 3 years. So, I'll be replacing it after things return to (somewhat) normal and the local distributor opens back up.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I went with an Interstate MTP -91/T6 for my last one. Even though mine is always on a tender, it just hit 3 years. So, I'll be replacing it after things return to (somewhat) normal and the local distributor opens back up.
Thanks... That is the same battery I have in it right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Just pulled the battery, it's actually under 2 yrs old. Tested it and it's on the high side of good, with 100% charge. Does not appear to be the culprit. Open to any other thoughts.
 

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I know it might be entirely extreme, but if it worked with the old hatch, maybe swap it back to see if you can return to a known-good state?
 

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I saw you posted and was hoping you got it resolved... sorry its still acting up. Unfortunately, I don't have anything else to offer off the top of my head.
 

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Dumb question, but you had a defroster before and the new hatch doesn't? Were there any other connections no longer used (antenna array or such?). The Evora is fairly notorious for being sensitive to resistance changes in the electrical system, so having those hanging vs connected to an expected load could be problematic. Might be worth looking into what the factory does wiring for the carbon hatch.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Dumb question, but you had a defroster before and the new hatch doesn't? Were there any other connections no longer used (antenna array or such?). The Evora is fairly notorious for being sensitive to resistance changes in the electrical system, so having those hanging vs connected to an expected load could be problematic. Might be worth looking into what the factory does wiring for the carbon hatch.
Just the defroster not being used. I bought the hatch from Hethelsport / Sherman. He hasn't seen the same issue from others that have installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
So had my normal mechanic for other cars look through everything and he is convinced it's the cluster itself as everything else is working as normal. Believes it has a short or bad capacitor somewhere. Anyone know of someone who repairs these? Trying to avoid buying a new one, but may have to. Also along those lines.. if I had to purchase; would the newer 400 model cluster fit?
Just looking for options... Thank again
 

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I think someone here had tried a 400 cluster in an S1 and it sort of worked, but not 100% compatibility. Check some of the dismantler sites; they occasionally have Evora parts. I don't know if the cluster mileage can be reprogrammed, but if so, I'd imagine only a TechCentre could do so.
 

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Funny, I had saved this place after seeing them on wheeler dealers (UK). Their website only lists Elise, but could be worth reaching out?

There is a cluster on eBay right now but the seller doesn't know any info on it.

Cluster Repairs UK
Ability House, 121 Brooker Rd, Waltham Abbey EN9 1JH, United Kingdom
+44 20 8525 4069
 

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I could be wrong, but I think you have to be careful with a used cluster.

Each cluster is "installed with non-erasable base software to make them compatible with vehicle by VIN range and airbag system fitted.......Although the base software cannot be altered, in the event of an issue with the instrument pack, the version of software fitted can be checked if requested by a Field Service Engineer...."

Additionally, ...."Although vehicle mileage can be reset using Lotus TechCentre, to prevent potential abuse a limitation to this function has been imposed, once the mileage/kilometre display on the odometer exceeds 50miles or 75 kilometres the odometer reading can no longer be altered."

There are several cluster variants with different software levels.
 

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I had the same issue when a light bulb shorted and blew a fuse. Cluster started ticking and would not shut off. It was the blown lighting fuse.
 
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