Thanks...I could be wrong, but I think you have to be careful with a used cluster.
Each cluster is "installed with non-erasable base software to make them compatible with vehicle by VIN range and airbag system fitted.......Although the base software cannot be altered, in the event of an issue with the instrument pack, the version of software fitted can be checked if requested by a Field Service Engineer...."
Additionally, ...."Although vehicle mileage can be reset using Lotus TechCentre, to prevent potential abuse a limitation to this function has been imposed, once the mileage/kilometre display on the odometer exceeds 50miles or 75 kilometres the odometer reading can no longer be altered."
There are several cluster variants with different software levels.
Thank you!Funny, I had saved this place after seeing them on wheeler dealers (UK). Their website only lists Elise, but could be worth reaching out?
There is a cluster on eBay right now but the seller doesn't know any info on it.
Cluster Repairs UK
Ability House, 121 Brooker Rd, Waltham Abbey EN9 1JH, United Kingdom
+44 20 8525 4069
Thanks for the infoI think someone here had tried a 400 cluster in an S1 and it sort of worked, but not 100% compatibility. Check some of the dismantler sites; they occasionally have Evora parts. I don't know if the cluster mileage can be reprogrammed, but if so, I'd imagine only a TechCentre could do so.
It was a blown fuse. That's it. But what it proves is what several other have said, if the resistance is changed, you will have issues. if you deleted something... find out it's draw and install a resistor and that will fix it.Thanks... Mine is ticking too, new symptom. How did you fix it?
Thanks... I checked the fuses and don't have a blown one. Do you by chance remember exactly what fuse it was so I can test it?It was a blown fuse. That's it. But what it proves is what several other have said, if the resistance is changed, you will have issues. if you deleted something... find out it's draw and install a resistor and that will fix it.
It was the interior lighting fuse. It only corrected once I replaced it... telling me it relies on resistance. (pulling it was no help)Thanks... I checked the fuses and don't have a blown one. Do you by chance remember exactly what fuse it was so I can test it?
I will also see what the defroster draw is, as everything else is the same.
Pulled all the fuses again, none are blown. Maybe it is indeed caused by the defroster not being plugged in anymore. Seems odd this would cause this to happen, but now I need to rule that out. Open for more thoughts. Thank youI'd still pull the fuse and do a visual only because it's possible that it appears good from the test points but blew below it?
My money is riding on the defroster...Pulled all the fuses again, none are blown. Maybe it is indeed caused by the defroster not being plugged in anymore. Seems odd this would cause this to happen, but now I need to rule that out. Open for more thoughts. Thank you
I just had a look at the schematics... It sure looks like it's the hatch switch as you can see it ties into the cluster.So the schematic for the defroster shows it's directly supplied by the battery, unless I'm reading something incorrectly. I'm still going to attempt to rule it out but seeing this I'm not sure.
Thanks Viperguy... I have people over at my house now so I had to postpone digging in further. Though to answer your question, the 3rd brake light does work, both old and new one. As I disconnected then reconnected each piece the cluster went off, until I got to the new 3rd brake light. When I plugged it back in the cluster stayed on. Then I hooked up the old one and the cluster went off. All this while the tailgate was gate locked using a screw driver, but left open. I then went for a drive with the tailgate actually down, old 3rd brake light, everything seemed to work, until I parked into my garage as normal and then the cluster stayed back on again. I was thinking a ground but unsure where, as the tailgate switch itself is grounded to the screw on the hatch. Was thinking maybe the system is reading a fault somehow when driving which caused it to stay on again, but I'm not getting any warning lights or anything. Just the cluster staying on.I just had a look at the schematics... It sure looks like it's the hatch switch as you can see it ties into the cluster.
Does the 3rd brake light still work once you close the hatch? ground? I'm up for another hour... if you want to discuss via whatsapp I can.
Thanks.. appreciate your help.Ok...
Do what you did prior and confirm your first test. That it functions correct if hatch up and latch closed.
Then do the same again but this time while running (in drive, you need a second person possibly) cycle the latch and see what happens... could be that while under movement the switch is losing contact? Was the 3rd light plug and play?did you de-pin anything?. Did the 3rd light work when you returned the second time and the cluster stayed on? Try and replicate and don't touch until you confirm you have not lost the grd to the brake light.
Thanks....I did a visual. After going through everything yesterday, I wouldn't think it points to a fuse, as everything was working properly until after I drove it with the hatch down.When you checked your fuses, did you use a multimeter or just a visual. Some fuses can crack or not show a visual blow. They will either provide no continuity or continuity with resistance. You want to check for no resistance.