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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, all....

I am having some warranty work performed on my 2012 Evora S. At the same time as that work is being done, I have been offered the chance to have the clutch replaced with no labor costs. The new clutch itself is about $1,400--obviously, the labor costs associated with installing it would be a lot more if the repair had to occur.

The car has about 3,000 miles on it and I have had no problems at all with the clutch. Even my mechanic said that at this point, there is no "clinical" reason to have it replaced.

Considering all of this, I am inclined to not spend $1,400 to repair a clutch that currently doesn't need repairing. Would anyone recommend pulling the trigger and replacing the clutch? (Note that any necessary clutch repair that might ultimately be required would not be covered under warranty, unless caused by a manufacturer's defect.)

Thanks.
 

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Why would you ever pay money to fix something that isn't broken? The warranty would only ever cover something due to manufacturer's defect.

Spending $1400 to replace a perfectly working clutch with free labor seems akin to buying new tires after 200 miles because someone offers you free balancing.
 

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I would be inclined to ask why someone would even make that offer. Either he knows more about your clutch than he is telling you, or he is looking for a guinea pig to experiment with.
 

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what warranty work are they doing that would require engine out?
agree. If engine/trans being removed for "warranty work". then visual inspection of clutch disc/flywheel, both for wear or signs of abuse (galling, hot spots etc, could easily be done-(15-20 min to r&r pressure plate). If no wear/abuse evident, than save the $1400 parts cost.......
As an aside, the mechanic's offer seems unusual........after 3000 miles, clutch wear should be insignificant, with proper driving, and I wonder about the opportunity to apply a parts charge of $1400, while leaving in perfectly good OEM parts.......just a thought.................
 

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would be nice to see someone come out with an aftermarket clutch kit (performance), the cars have been out for years now and it has been shown that the OEM clutch is not that great wear and durability wise.
 

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would be nice to see someone come out with an aftermarket clutch kit (performance), the cars have been out for years now and it has been shown that the OEM clutch is not that great wear and durability wise.
Instal the S clutch for a higher performance; but as to wear and durability it has not been shown to be a problem with the disc and pressure plates but rather problems with the disengagement mechanism; heat in fluid, bearing, spacers, bore size machining, etc.
 

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FWIW: When we first purchased our 2011 Elise, it had 13,000 miles on it and the transmission was replaced under warranty. I paid for replacing the clutch while the transmission was out. It seemed like a wise decision at that time, especially since I didn't know how the previous owner used the car.
 

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13000 is 4 x 3000 so more justifiable; besides on any unneeded work the chance of a new throwout bearing being perfect or even better than what is in place is not 100%
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks to all. I'll have the visual inspection done but unless it discloses something wrong (which seems unlikely), I'm going to save the $1,400....
 

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i would worry more about the condition of the throwout bearing and spacer than the friction plate...the friction plates seem to hold up fine, as mentioned, it is other parts that fail.


when my clutch was replaced for unknown reasons (no one could figure out what was causing it to bind) the friction plate looked great at 20k miles
 

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i would worry more about the condition of the throwout bearing and spacer than the friction plate...the friction plates seem to hold up fine, as mentioned, it is other parts that fail.


when my clutch was replaced for unknown reasons (no one could figure out what was causing it to bind) the friction plate looked great at 20k miles
That sounds familiar.:scratchhead: We concluded it may have the sticky goo on the drive shaft blocking movement of the throwout bearing.:facepalm
 
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