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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Guys,

I finally got the dyno done on my car.I have to mention that the ABS light went on during the first run and I was planing on doing the first two runs without sport and 3 with sport.That didn't really go according to the plans. Even after I pressed the sport the sprot light didn't go on and at this point the car was getting hotter and it was making less power. I'll be doing another one next week with sport on with the first run to see if i'll make more power so Basically 274 was without the sport.

Here are the mods I have :

Radium Cold Air Intake
Radium Dual Catch Can
Kold-Fire Evora 300 Tune
Supersprint Full Exhaust system With Sport Cat
Lotus Sport Exhaust

The best run was 273.9 At the wheels and i'm guessing with give or take a 15% loss it would be somewhere close to 310 or 315 Horsepower at the crank. Not too bad comparing to the S. Only 30HP More for almost 20K more. I'm so glad i bought the NA.



 

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Hi Guys,

Here are the mods I have :

Radium Cold Air Intake
Radium Dual Catch Can
Kold-Fire Evora 300 Tune
Supersprint Full Exhaust system With Sport Cat
Lotus Sport Exhaust

The best run was 273.9 At the wheels and i'm guessing with give or take a 15% loss it would be somewhere close to 310 or 315 Horsepower at the crank. Not too bad comparing to the S. Only 30HP More for almost 20K more. I'm so glad i bought the NA.

Cool thanks for the info, my next question is, will it pass smog as is in Ca?
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That was actually one of the first things i asked for. The guys that did the dyno had a sniffer in my exhaust and they said based on the readings it will pass!
 

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The best run was 273.9 At the wheels and i'm guessing with give or take a 15% loss it would be somewhere close to 310 or 315 Horsepower at the crank. Not too bad comparing to the S. Only 30HP More for almost 20K more. I'm so glad i bought the NA.

NOt sure where you get your figure but the S is not $20k more than an NA. And the S package inclues everything in the SPort Pack and the CR box (which is standard on 12 but not 11 MY cars) MY12 is approx $10k more than the NA and includes the $1400 Sport pack.

SO you've spent how much on your mods? and are still 30 (est) down on the S.

SOund like rationalization to me.

If your happy with what you have great, but no need to rationalize it.
 

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NOt sure where you get your figure but the S is not $20k more than an NA. And the S package inclues everything in the SPort Pack and the CR box (which is standard on 12 but not 11 MY cars) MY12 is approx $10k more than the NA and includes the $1400 Sport pack.

SO you've spent how much on your mods? and are still 30 (est) down on the S.

SOund like rationalization to me.

If your happy with what you have great, but no need to rationalize it.
What is the CR Box?
Ron:shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I purchased mine in the 50's so i was not rationalizing it. Just shared that I was happy that i didn't spend 20k more for buy the S, That's all. No need to get upset, if you got the S more power to you. I'm just glad i saved the money and now i'm having fun doing little upgrades here and there to get there for one third of what I would've paid for the S.
 

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At this point the NA does have the advantage of having any sort of intake or exhaust mods as options.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ron,

I never did the dyno with the car bone stock. Based on what the manufacture is claiming which is 276 HP, with a 15% loss at the crank the stock car should be making somewhere close to 234HP at the wheels. Compared to mine that's 40HP less. I think for a 5K investment that's pretty good number.
 

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I'm gonna guess Close Ratio :shrug:

Yes Close Ratio. MY 10-11 Evoras came a standard gearbox with a Close Ration as an option. I don't recall the price.

I recall a conversation with a Lotus guy indicating the S package was an $8000 upgrade, but when you take into account that the S package comes with the Close Ratio gearbox and the sport pack the upgrade was more like $5000.

Note as previously stated, the CR box is now standard on all MY12 Evoras.
 

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I purchased mine in the 50's so i was not rationalizing it. Just shared that I was happy that i didn't spend 20k more for buy the S, That's all. No need to get upset, if you got the S more power to you. I'm just glad i saved the money and now i'm having fun doing little upgrades here and there to get there for one third of what I would've paid for the S.
No one is getting upset, but your initial post makes it sound like there is a $20k difference between an NA Evora and an S which is simply not the case.

If you stated from the outset that you bought a used NA rather than a new S ( I don't think you can assume anyone would have known that) then your statement would have made sense and there would have been no need for a rebuttal.

Also, if you are going to discuss costs your initial post should have indicated your cost of upgrades which is directly relevant to the discussion - which you have now subsequently stated.


It is perfectly understandable to spend less in an initial purchase then add performance down the line as finance permits.

I would be interested to see when you are done with your upgrades to see an accurate cost analysis of what you spent on your used Evora with all of the upgrade costs including the cost of dyno runs vs the cost of a new (presumably MY11) Evora S - and of course then end result in the dyno results.
 

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I am not on anyone side. But rationalizing a purchase is smart we all do this in our lives. The Evora market at least in the USA can’t be evaluated from a non-reality of MRSP. Who in the hell is paying MSRP for these cars? (Not trying to be insulting). I am not seeing these cars fly off the lots & the deals are deeper for N/A over the S because of inventory. In today’s market a 20k spread between an N/A & S is reality not MSRP.
Another point: A blown car (turbo or Super Charge) will be affected more by weather than a NA car. Reason I left BMW M. My contradiction: I always say buy the highest power model rather than adding after-market parts that can decrease resale value and compromise reliability and warrantee. My rationalizing: I paid 59k (MSRP 77,385) for a new N/A M11 at the time the best price S was closer to 83K. My thoughts not to spend the extra $$ on these cars. LOTUS sustainability, RELIABILITY, resale value & consumer demand and lack of a dealer networks. It’s your money & choice, people need to be less sensitive but in the end the more you spend the more you can loose.;)
 

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Mods keep me happy! And what he said. At the time it was $59995 v ~80K for a loaded "S" 20K will keep me very happy. The "S" is an awesome car but...for $59995 find me a better bang for the overall buck in the auto world... That doesn't look like everyone else!
 

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I got mine for 65k and still my 15k between the N/A and the loaded 2011 S (which was not available in the colors I wanted) will again - make me happy.
 
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