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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, trying to diagnose an issue. The car is somewhat quick to overheat, especially if i'm not moving. I've had it reach top quarter of the range in less than 5 minutes of stop/go driving before I got to the highway.

I'm trying to turn the AC on and off to see if the compressor is working but I can't tell. I do hear a "click" sound but nothing else, and when I turn the AC off I don't hear anything different. I've even had someone else turn on/off the AC button while I stood near the rear, and I hear the click when the turn it on, but nothing when I turn it off. The click may just be HVAC ignition?

Any ideas would be great! I checked fuses and everything looks good. Coolant levels are good.
 

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2011 Evora NA 6sp
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If the car is overheating the last thing you wanna do is turn the AC on.

Are your cooling fans turning on?
Coolant level good?
Did you recently have a coolant service?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When the temp gauge goes over the halfway point, I do hear fans turning on.
Coolant level is good, not recently serviced.

Driving on the highway helps stabilize the temps so I don't think it's a coolant issue
 

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Hey rasheemo,

It is common symtopm to see among Lotus Evora owners that car runs little hot when not moving. For example, my car, when engine is idling during autocross session breaks or traffic, engine temp bar is 10~15% above the middle. I turn on the heater on full to remedy this (at least during autocross, not on traffic).

I think engine heat is common issue among Evoras that was later solved at 400, with new under tray and stuff. ATM, I am going to install BOE undertry to see if that helps.

That being said, compressor (or any A/C component for that matter) is common issue among Evora too but I don't think your engine temp is too high.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey rasheemo,

It is common symtopm to see among Lotus Evora owners that car runs little hot when not moving. For example, my car, when engine is idling during autocross session breaks or traffic, engine temp bar is 10~15% above the middle. I turn on the heater on full to remedy this (at least during autocross, not on traffic).

I think engine heat is common issue among Evoras that was later solved at 400, with new under tray and stuff. ATM, I am going to install BOE undertry to see if that helps.

That being said, compressor (or any A/C component for that matter) is common issue among Evora too but I don't think your engine temp is too high.

Good luck!
Thanks for your response. My engine gets hotter than 15% above half within maybe 10 minutes of light driving. I'm not even in sports mode.

I also often find that the gauge is at the top and the car alerts me that the engine is too hot. Again this is all normal driving, not autocross or tracking. This does not seem normal and I'm wondering if the ac compressor is a related issue since the AC was running great previously but not anymore
 

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Thanks for your response. My engine gets hotter than 15% above half within maybe 10 minutes of light driving. I'm not even in sports mode.

I also often find that the gauge is at the top and the car alerts me that the engine is too hot. Again this is all normal driving, not autocross or tracking. This does not seem normal and I'm wondering if the ac compressor is a related issue since the AC was running great previously but not anymore
I dont see how the AC not working would cause it to run hotter. Extra load from the AC working would cause it to run a little hotter.

Sounds like a failed closed thermostat.
Does running your heater keep things cooler for longer?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I dont see how the AC not working would cause it to run hotter. Extra load from the AC working would cause it to run a little hotter.

Sounds like a failed closed thermostat.
Does running your heater keep things cooler for longer?
I haven't tried that but i'll give it a shot.

Reason why i cited the AC is this article: Step by step to resolve overheating of Lotus Evora - carleg

The relevant section:

"The cooling fan is required by the air conditioning compressor to operate at idle when the compressor is on.It is a quick way to check the cooling fan operation to turn on the air conditioner.
Also the cooling fan should come on with the air conditioner compressor. Some automobiles will have two electric fans, one is the air conditioner condenser fan and the other is for the radiator .It will have a belt driven fan blade and fan clutch if your vehicle does not have an electric cooling fan on the radiator . This fan should be pulling a large amount of warm and hot air across the radiator onto the engine to keep it cool.The radiator fan is usually closer to the middle of the radiator. The radiator fan is responsible for cooling of the engine, while the condenser fan is responsible for increasing air conditioning efficiency at idle and low speed.If there is ample airflow across the radiator at idle. The radiator is responsible for the primary heat exchange for the engine, and airflow is crucial at this time. "
 

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1974 Europa TCS, 2014 Evora N/A MT
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I recommend rechecking the fuses. Are you sure you checked the correct ones?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I dont see how the AC not working would cause it to run hotter. Extra load from the AC working would cause it to run a little hotter.

Sounds like a failed closed thermostat.
Does running your heater keep things cooler for longer?
Using this reference I checked the following fuses:


C4, C5, and c28, which correspond to radiator fan 1, 2, and HVAC ignition

What other fuses should I check?
 

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R11 in the rear fuse panel is for the A/C compressor.

Also, if you haven't had the coolant changed within the last few years, it might be time for a fluid swap. I recently had mine flushed 2x times w/ distilled water, and then filled with Toyota pink. This spring was the first time I had seen the "Engine too hot" message, and before the service, the temp gauge would sit almost near the 80% mark when idling in traffic. It barely gets above half now.

Coolant does degrade over time, so something to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
R11 in the rear fuse panel is for the A/C compressor.

Also, if you haven't had the coolant changed within the last few years, it might be time for a fluid swap. I recently had mine flushed 2x times w/ distilled water, and then filled with Toyota pink. This spring was the first time I had seen the "Engine too hot" message, and before the service, the temp gauge would sit almost near the 80% mark when idling in traffic. It barely gets above half now.

Coolant does degrade over time, so something to consider.
Good news, fuse wasn't blown. Bad news, I dropped the fuse trying to get it back in. Holy hell that was a mission, it's so cramped back there, drove me insane.

So now I need to buy a fuse anyway.

I'll look into doing a coolant flush. But I guess I need to confirm whether I have a bad compressor :\

Any ideas on how to confirm if the compressor is bad?
 

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Agent 8 has good point. Seems like a antifreeze failure- or circulation(compressor?) failure (possibly not since temps lower at speed) or auxiliary cooling fan failure which should cycle at low speeds as temp rises-ruled out as you have confirmed by listening.Only thought on fan function is too listen for both fan speeds, there are two, low speed for slight temp elevation, and higher speed for more temp rise. Have experienced fan failure which affected high speed only resulting in inadequate airfow when calling for high speed, thus engine temp elevation Compressor cycling could be comfirmed by observation, may have to remove undertray?
Also, you note "the AC was running great previously but not now."I believe when engine temps abnormally elevated the computer control defeats the AC function. Perhaps checking for cold AC air flow while at highway speeds, and temp now "stabilized" would support compressor functioning; on when engine temp allows, and off when high during slow motion......? Anyhow, will look forward to seeing resolution.
 

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So pre 400 Evora had a Temp Gauge? I use an OBD reader to monitor mine
 

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1974 Europa TCS, 2014 Evora N/A MT
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Using this reference I checked the following fuses:


C4, C5, and c28, which correspond to radiator fan 1, 2, and HVAC ignition

What other fuses should I check?
rasheemo, you got 'em. C4 and C5 were the ones I had open up. R1 in the back says "ECU, fan relay 3" and I don't know what it supplies. Btw, the old trick is to stuff a rag or such under work you do to catch small parts.
Good luck,
-Mike-
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Agent 8 has good point. Seems like a antifreeze failure- or circulation(compressor?) failure (possibly not since temps lower at speed) or auxiliary cooling fan failure which should cycle at low speeds as temp rises-ruled out as you have confirmed by listening.Only thought on fan function is too listen for both fan speeds, there are two, low speed for slight temp elevation, and higher speed for more temp rise. Have experienced fan failure which affected high speed only resulting in inadequate airfow when calling for high speed, thus engine temp elevation Compressor cycling could be comfirmed by observation, may have to remove undertray?
Also, you note "the AC was running great previously but not now."I believe when engine temps abnormally elevated the computer control defeats the AC function. Perhaps checking for cold AC air flow while at highway speeds, and temp now "stabilized" would support compressor functioning; on when engine temp allows, and off when high during slow motion......? Anyhow, will look forward to seeing resolution.
Thanks for the insights. The AC doesnt work even at low temps so it may be a bad compressor? Will have to take it to the show I think. Appreciate everyone's help. Will update here when I know more
 

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The compressor also won't come on at all if the refrigerant charge is low.
 

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Yep. There's only one belt that turns all the spinny things.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey all, just to close this out, the O-ring had to be replaced, line was leaking. Once I had that fixed and recharged, AC was back to normal. Car is still overheating though. I made a separate thread about that. Lotus thinks it's trapped air in the cooling system since the fans are working.

Thanks again for all the feedback guys
 
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