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Discussion Starter #1
So I took the Evora in to the audio shop for a fix, first time since installing the ShiftR111. The weak point of the ShiftR111 is definitely the reverse lockout mechanism. There's a warning not to use much force engaging it, and this would be why. Unfortunately, most people don't know this, and if you use the force you use for one on normal cars, you will break it. So, on to fixing the problem. It can fail in I'm guessing 3 ways. The upper connection, the cable itself, or the lower connection. Mine was the lower connection - the upper would be easier, and breaking would be similar but you'd need to replace the cable.

Start with the installation instructions for the ShiftR111 for disassembly, though you can abbreviate it. You only need to gain access to the passenger side of the console/shifter.

Remove the passenger seat. 4 6MM hex socket bolts. Tilt the seat back, disconnect the heated seat and airbag sensor connectors. These connectors are the same, so make sure you mark which is which before disconnecting them. Tilt the headrest of the seat towards the driver's side and remove the seat base first out the door opening.

Remove the shift knob, it just unscrews in the normal direction.

Use a soft trim tool and pry the HVAC trim loose - it's I believe 5 spring clips. They like to fall into the console - don't worry about this, they'll be easy to retrieve once you have the console side panel off. Remove the 4 connectors on the HVAC trim and slide it up. You don't need to remove it all of the way, just pull it all the way up inside out over the shifter and move it off to the side.

Remove the 2 set screws for the ebrake handle, remove the handle, remove the 2 screws for the ebrake trim, slide the trim forward and up and off.

Remove the 3 screws holding the console top panel on. 1 in front of the shifter, 2 to the sides. The washers are supposed to be glued to the panel, they may very well be loose.

My car does not have the center armrest - if you do, it should be removed here.

Remove the bottom of the rear seat if you have one, it will be in the way for lifting the top panel. The rear of the top panel is held in by 3 more spring clips. Pry them loose and lift the rear of the top panel, disconnect the 12v adapter. You can slide the entire panel up and back to get plenty of access without entirely removing it.

You'll see 4 screws holding the two side panels together. Remove all 4. There are 3 more screws along the floor on the side of the passenger panel on the side where the seat was. Remove the 3 screws. You should be able to pull the side panel away at this point - there are 2 or 3 more spring clips at the front holding these together. You should now have access like seen in the first picture below.

There is a small bracket on the shifter with 2x and 4x hex screws right in front of the reverse lockout mechanism. Remove this. The 4 smaller screws were not any size hex I have in my tools, and I have about 12 different sets of SAE and Metric. I had to use a Torx bit to remove those. The installation claims you should be able to use a 3/32" allen - but I tried 3 and none fit. The 2 larger ones were a standard size, though I forget exactly which.

Once removed, you should be able to see the reverse lockout mechanism and the cable end. The cable has a spring on it and a small metal ball crimped to the end. What happened in my case, is if you pull too far, the spring binds, when the spring binds, the cable is pulled to the side by the spring folding. If the spring folds in the right direction, it will pull the ball end out of the reverse lockout arm. The arm then falls down and stays down, and you end up with no lockout. Second picture below you can see the arm resting down detached.

Using a 3/8" wrench and a hex head, remove the bolt that holds the reverse lockout arm in and remove it. Pictured below with the cable set back in place already.

Release the tiny nuts holding the cable to the top side of the reverse lockout enough to push the cable downward to extend the ball end of the lower connection so you can insert the lockout arm back in place on the cable with the spring in between. Then tighten the top cable connection back up to hold it in the proper place while you re-insert the hex cap bolt and 3/8" nut to secure the lockout arm back in place. Use the shiftR111 installation instructions for setting the proper cable position/tightness/etc and then tighten everything back up.

Test your reverse lockout function, if all is well, reverse the instructions above to re-assemble and you're done.
 

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Sorry to hear you had a problem. We've yet to see a broken cable. The adjustment is critical for sure. A heavy hand is not needed to release the reverse lock out.

See some of the install instructions.

26. Install IK-100 LiftTube
 Insert threaded cable end through hole and secure with small nuts
 Place both lock nuts on top of pin as shown in picture
 CAUTION: these nuts are easy to lose!


27. Install cable housing onto retainer and adjust out slack.

28. Install shift knob. a. M10 gearknob required

29. Test reverse lockout operation. If more travel is needed, lower the collar that is attached to the shaft with a setscrew. Note: Only a small amount of travel is needed. Too much travel will unseat the cable end from the reverse lockout stop.

From your pictures I would suggest the following:
-It looks like the collar that the reverse Lifttube should rest on is too low. You can raise that up.
-I would also place both of the small nuts that hold the cable to the reverse Lifttube on top.

Feel free to call us for any assistance as we have installed many Evora kits.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks @shinoo - I did actually try raising the collar to see if that would help. If I raise it any further, the gaiter no longer fits over the mechanism - where it's at the gaiter is already fully stretched if I shift into reverse. If I raise the collar higher, I have to actually put the gaiter underneath the reverse mechanism entirely (to where the wire end/nuts are exposed), or I can't shift into reverse as there isn't enough travel/stretch in the leather.

I do have both nuts on there, the picture just has it without when I was releasing the cable in order to get it back into the lockout arm.

I was actually thinking there could be a small adjustable stop created to sit underneath the shift knob and prevent the tube from traveling further up. I might try to model such a thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So after having this happen again when dropping the car off at a detailing shop, I went ahead and made a spacer as a stop for the lift tube. Can't attach the STL here, but if anyone wants it let me know. It sits on the shaft and slides snugly inside the knob as you tighten it down, and prevents the reverse lockout tube from being lifted more than ~3-4mm.

STL is the 2mm piece pictured, and just scale the Z to adjust to your installation. Mine was 16mm, so 800% and it fits pretty much perfectly.

1255411


You don't see it once installed, as it sits up inside the gear knob.
 
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