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2011+ Evora Wilwood Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade Kit

One of the most common issues that plagues the Evora's is the master cylinder. It is only a matter of time before the oem plastic unit fails. The update/recall from Lotus isn't any better either.

This Kit adapts a upgraded Wilwood master cylinder into your stock location, eliminating a chance for plastic failure.

No drilling! Bolts/adapts onto the factory bolts and factory pedal location.

Kit Includes:
- Wilwood master cylinder
- Adapter plate
-Hardware
-Pedal fork
-Clutch line to the LF wheel well Union
-AN to metric adapter for line

We have 6 kits in stock ready to ship!
$419 + shipping retail.

Group Buy price: $395 shipped
Pm me to get yours!
 

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Good to know it exists. Not looking forward to the clam off part for the job, that's all.
 
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Will this kit be available in the future?
 

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These are his design I believe.
Yes this is correct, but I don't plan to keep making and selling them one at a time and shipping them out.
 

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2011+ Evora Wilwood Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade Kit

One of the most common issues that plagues the Evora's is the master cylinder. It is only a matter of time before the oem plastic unit fails. The update/recall from Lotus isn't any better either.

This Kit adapts a upgraded Wilwood master cylinder into your stock location, eliminating a chance for plastic failure.

No drilling! Bolts/adapts onto the factory bolts and factory pedal location.

Kit Includes:
- Wilwood master cylinder
- Adapter plate
-Hardware
-Pedal fork
-Clutch line to the LF wheel well Union
-AN to metric adapter for line

We have 6 kits in stock ready to ship!
$419 + shipping retail.

Group Buy price: $395 shipped
Pm me to get yours!
This might be a stupid question but I just got a 2010 and I am curious if this problem will come to me at some point. Does this work for a 2010 model?
 

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This might be a stupid question but I just got a 2010 and I am curious if this problem will come to me at some point. Does this work for a 2010 model?
No this will not work, the pedal box was reconfigured in 2011 but the good news is the metal earlier ones very rarely fail!
 

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This might be a stupid question but I just got a 2010 and I am curious if this problem will come to me at some point. Does this work for a 2010 model?
Chaos is correct. If you have a 2010, you should replace it with the original clutch master cylinder. I have a 2010 and just replaced mine.

The tech had ordered the revised one for me thinking it was covered by the recall, but it turned out to be the wrong part. He had to order the original part and the car feels like new. I kept the original parts for reference. It was just a matter of worn seals, so technically the part could have been serviced too, but they aren't terribly expensive.. The work is what will cost you >:)

If you do it you'll want to do the slave as well, as they wear equally.
 

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I purchased the kit and am not looking forward to the clam off job ahead. The pedal has only stuck down twice. Once on my wife and once on me. I'm wondering how many times it will stick before it finally fails and leaves me without a clutch? We had nearly 200 miles between the failures before. Will it get worse? What else should I do when the clam is off? Inspect radiator and condenser for sure but what else? Any links on removing the front clam?? Thanks
 

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I purchased the kit and am not looking forward to the clam off job ahead. The pedal has only stuck down twice. Once on my wife and once on me. I'm wondering how many times it will stick before it finally fails and leaves me without a clutch? We had nearly 200 miles between the failures before. Will it get worse? What else should I do when the clam is off? Inspect radiator and condenser for sure but what else? Any links on removing the front clam?? Thanks
Look at the instructions on gregsraceparts.com, and the clam off job is not much work. Having an S makes it take a bit longer because it's harder to get to the headlight with the coolers. But it's only 5-6 hours to take it off and put it on. While it's off you should inspect the radiator, or just replace it with an aluminum welded one. Also if your vent mesh is warped replace that.
I replaced my fans when mine was off, I would suggest doing that but I created custom bracketry for mine. You should be able to find a solution that drops in though.. Not sure.
If you need any help or questions shoot me a pm.
 

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Ditto....I need one!! Any available?
 

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And if someone can post a DIY with pics it would be much appreciated!
 

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I think they can be ordered directly from GRP (unless maybe stock is gone?) @Chaos provided a how-to doc which is linked on that page, and also here.

If there's another group buy for this m/c, I'd be in for 1 too.
 

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No this will not work, the pedal box was reconfigured in 2011 but the good news is the metal earlier ones very rarely fail!
My 2011 NA Evora is a June 2010 build.
I have never had any problems with my Clutch Master Cylinder or Slave Cylinder.
Is there a way to tell if I have the early Metal Master Cylinder ?
Is the Master Cylinder visible if you remove the front under-tray ?
BTW, I've heard that Lotus went to the Plastic Master Cylinders when they came out with the S Evoras, since the Plastic ones were supposed to be rated for a higher pressure. Then, they just used the Plastic ones on ALL of the Evoras at that point.
 

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No this will not work, the pedal box was reconfigured in 2011 but the good news is the metal earlier ones very rarely fail!
My 2011 NA Evora is a June 2010 build.
I have never had any problems with my Clutch Master Cylinder or Slave Cylinder.
Is there a way to tell if I have the early Metal Master Cylinder ?
Is the Master Cylinder visible if you remove the front under-tray ?
BTW, I've heard that Lotus went to the Plastic Master Cylinders when they came out with the S Evoras, since the Plastic ones were supposed to be rated for a higher pressure. Then, they just used the Plastic ones on ALL of the Evoras at that point.
If you take a picture of the bolt configuration by the clutch master cylinder shaft, that comes through the footwell and connects to the clutch pedal, then I can tell you if the kit will work or not
 

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Well, I removed the clam today and much to my surprise I found I had the METAL MC....not the plastic unit! I was determined to make the Wilwood kit work so I had to do some modifications.
The factory metal MC has a short rod compared to the kit from GRP. First I thought I'd make the GRP billet adapter work by turning it over and just using it as a spacer. This would have required a relief to be cut on one side to allow the spacer to sit perfectly flat on the firewall and a trip to the hardware store for some longer 8MM bolts.
It turned out it was easier to remove the rod from the Wilwood unit and adding about 5/8" more thread to the new rod and not using the spacer. This allowed me to run the clevis in farther to get me back to the original length throw. Now doing that, made me cut off about 3/4" from the new rod so it wouldn't interfere with the pedal bracket where the pin goes through. I was able to use the factory bolts but had to drill out the clevis because my factory pin was larger at the pedal.
Other modifications included opening up the hole in the firewall to approx 1-1/4 so the MC would sit flat and opening up the gasket as well.
It seemed every turn I took there was a new obstacle but with enough persistence it mounted beautifully. I crammed the small rubber hose over the new plastic barb on the MC. It had to be spun around so it didn't hit the brake servo. The clamp was spun as well to make it more friendly to tighten. I got my neighbor to help me with the nuts up top while I went in and contorted myself to fit under the steering wheel to access the pedal box. I swear this is harder than pulling the clam off. I tightened everything up and reinstalled the potentiometer to the pedal which is held to the servo by two bolts. After the blood rushed back to my head I was able to crack a beer and start on the new brake line and filling the system.
Bleeding was straight forward and I did it in several places. I had my wife help me on that and we finalized it with a fresh system filled with Castrol racing fluid. I used my bleeder and got it all done without having to take the bottom pan off. It is possible but you have to work blind to do it
This kit is top notch although I don't think Greg intended it to fit the earlier years. The new line is a stainless braided piece that has quality fittings on it. He even threw in the adapters for the MC and the firewall union. The first couple pushes was a delightful surprise with MUCH less effort to move the pedal.
Here are a couple photos of the before and after. I'm also going to tackle the cracked windshield while I'm here
Thanks CHAOS for the helpful hints!
 

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