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I have a stupid question. I have the front clam almost off, but not sure how to get to bolts in the front. Can someone help me with these?
 

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You can make a mess like this in just a few hours! Haha
Awesome! Super happy to see a majority of you guys are doing the swap yourself!!
 

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Spacer not used
What year is your car? Yet to see anyone have that bracket there.. The outside of the bracket is the same profile as the 2011+ plastic cylinder, so it has no clearance issues.
The bolts aren't vertical on the 2011+ That I've seen like they are on yours
 

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I just had this installed. Few questions for those who have installed it:

Somebody mentioned earlier in the thread that post-install the effort to push the clutch pedal in was much lower. Mine is much stiffer (not softer) post-install, and the clutch engagement/disengagement point is at the very top of the clutch travel range (ie instantaneous when I push in)? I also noticed that the clutch now "clanks" when it returns to it's resting position (fully up). .... should I be concerned about any of these quirks?

Also, Squid mentioned replacing the slave cylinder as well... i did not do this. If I were to preemptively replace the slave cylinder, what would that do other than protecting against a failure of the plastic OEM unit (i assume it's plastic)? Is the slave cylinder an identical Wilwood part to the master cylinder in this kit?

Lastly, I noticed that I have the wrench indicator for several seconds when first starting up (and my cruise control no longer turns on). I'm almost certain it's my clutch position sensor which I've had an issue with in the past. Can anybody point me in the right direction of how to fix this? If the sensor itself needs to be replaced, is it a simple unplug/plug back in, or is it a pretty invasive process to get to the sensor itself?

SOrry for all the basic questions, i'm not very mechanically inclined...
 

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What year is your car? Yet to see anyone have that bracket there.. The outside of the bracket is the same profile as the 2011+ plastic cylinder, so it has no clearance issues.
The bolts aren't vertical on the 2011+ That I've seen like they are on yours
Car is declared 6/10. Lotus calls it a 2011 on certificate. Bolts are straight up and down on a metal master cylinder. The spacer in the photo is flipped over to show possible mounting option. If it were flipped around like intended, half of the spacer would have had to be cut away for the clearance necessary. Like I said before, I don't think this kit was intended for my car but I made it work by shortening the clutch rod, opening the hole up to 1-1/4", drilling out the clevis and routing the hose and pipe differently.

As far as "easier pushing" I will retract that statement. It is neither easier or harder. If it is bled properly, then it is positive on feel and function. My initial pushes were obviously "aired up"
All in all, this was a 4 for my skill level and anyone with basic shop know how could easily tackle it. I have not had one problem yet with the clutch and am glad I tackled it. Thanks guys for letting me share my how to with you. Anyowners wanting to retrofit this to your early Evora should PM me for details
 

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Somebody mentioned earlier in the thread that post-install the effort to push the clutch pedal in was much lower. Mine is much stiffer (not softer) post-install, and the clutch engagement/disengagement point is at the very top of the clutch travel range (ie instantaneous when I push in)? I also noticed that the clutch now "clanks" when it returns to it's resting position (fully up). .... should I be concerned about any of these quirks?
The clutch m/c rod probably just needs to be adjusted.

Also, Squid mentioned replacing the slave cylinder as well... i did not do this. If I were to preemptively replace the slave cylinder, what would that do other than protecting against a failure of the plastic OEM unit (i assume it's plastic)? Is the slave cylinder an identical Wilwood part to the master cylinder in this kit?
The clutch slave cylinder is metal, and doesn't seem to fail nearly as often as the master (or at least no one has posted about any failures). It makes sense to change them at the same time to keep the whole hydraulic system fresh, but I don't think it's absolutely necessary. I'm unaware of any aftermarket slave cylinders made for the Evoras.

Lastly, I noticed that I have the wrench indicator for several seconds when first starting up (and my cruise control no longer turns on). I'm almost certain it's my clutch position sensor which I've had an issue with in the past. Can anybody point me in the right direction of how to fix this? If the sensor itself needs to be replaced, is it a simple unplug/plug back in, or is it a pretty invasive process to get to the sensor itself?
If you stick your head up under the dash near the pedals, you can see the clutch position sensor above the pivot point. It's got a single electrical connector on it, and it's held on by 1 or 2 small bolts.
 

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Hey Play-Doh.....just had the Wilwood installed on my 11 S and the rod does appear to be too long. The fork is screwed down as far as it will go with the end of the push rod just a millimeter away from the pedal. Of course now the pedal bangs up against the metal stop and the cruise doesn't work. It also engages right at the top of travel.
So I'm looking for suggestions. Obviously the rod needs to be shortened to get the pedal back to it's factory position. My only idea is that I have to take the clam off and remove the MC....unless there is another way?
 

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Hey Play-Doh.....just had the Wilwood installed on my 11 S and the rod does appear to be too long. The fork is screwed down as far as it will go with the end of the push rod just a millimeter away from the pedal. Of course now the pedal bangs up against the metal stop and the cruise doesn't work. It also engages right at the top of travel.
So I'm looking for suggestions. Obviously the rod needs to be shortened to get the pedal back to it's factory position. My only idea is that I have to take the clam off and remove the MC....unless there is another way?
You can remove the snap ring at the front of the master cylinder from inside the footwell, and the insides will come out, along with the fork then it can be cut

I'm interested to know what went wrong with yours, how far does the master cylinder neck stick through the footwell? it should be flush. I suspect the dealer did not put the spacer in..
 

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Hey Chaos.....You and I had talked about this before. I took your advice and tried to turn the pushrod with a vicegrip...couldn't get any travel due to the tight quarters...and definitely could NOT get myself into the Lotus position to undo the fork! Interesting, texevora has the exact set of symptoms with his install and play-doh noticed the length difference in the pushrods with the factory being shorter. All of these issues are definitely due to the pushrod being too long and it was not addressed by the tech who did my install. I also have an issue now with the brake icon lighting up every 2-3 days. Adding more fluid puts the light out temporarily. Had the car back to the tech this week and can't find a leak (don't believe he had the clam off...just the left tire and liner).
Soooo....it looks like my attempt to save myself the job was in vain and I will have to do it after all...want a round trip ticket to Delray Beach? :)
I do have pics of the Wilwood installed and the pushrod attachment to the pedal...I'll upload them on Monday.
 

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Successfully replaced my factory metal m/c with the Wilwood yesterday. Thanks to @PLAY-DOH for the pointers/tips/advice. I ended up using the spacer, but cut the upper left "flange" off so it wouldn't interfere with another bracket that's mounted nearby. Had to run out and grab 2 longer bolts (M8 1.25 x 35mm). Also took the time to measure the stock m/c distance from center of the fork hole to the cylinder base that contacts the firewall, and replicated that on the Wilwood. Didn't need to modify the pushrod length at all.

@Chaos with some slight variations, I think GRP could offer the kit to all S1 Evoras. The 09-11s with metal m/cs just need the spacer to mimic the shape of the Wilwood cylinder, and maybe be a hair thicker so enlarging the firewall hole isn't necessary. And some longer bolts that pass through the firewall, spacer, and m/c. Oh and maybe a different fork with a larger hole for the pin.
 

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Successfully replaced my factory metal m/c with the Wilwood yesterday. Thanks to @PLAY-DOH for the pointers/tips/advice. I ended up using the spacer, but cut the upper left "flange" off so it wouldn't interfere with another bracket that's mounted nearby. Had to run out and grab 2 longer bolts (M8 1.25 x 35mm). Also took the time to measure the stock m/c distance from center of the fork hole to the cylinder base that contacts the firewall, and replicated that on the Wilwood. Didn't need to modify the pushrod length at all.

@Chaos with some slight variations, I think GRP could offer the kit to all S1 Evoras. The 09-11s with metal m/cs just need the spacer to mimic the shape of the Wilwood cylinder, and maybe be a hair thicker so enlarging the firewall hole isn't necessary. And some longer bolts that pass through the firewall, spacer, and m/c. Oh and maybe a different fork with a larger hole for the pin.
I can do this, and make that spacer, but would need someone to test it for me on a 09-11
 

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Resurrecting this thread as I came in from last session at track yesterday. When I went back to car to leave 30 minutes later, pedal was soft halfway way to floor. Pumps did not help, but it recovered immediately when I stuck my foot behind clutch pedal to let it refill. BTW all fresh ATE 200 fluids but i did drive the pi$$ out of it that session with a passenger. Suspicious that MC may be getting tired or I just plain cooked the fluid again...hehe

Are the Wilwoods still available at Gregg's??
 
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