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And what do you have to remove to get to those 4 bolts....just kidding. Its a Lotus thing.
 

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Started tonight. Tire off, liner out.left side of clam unbolted. Able to left ~6 inches. Couple of hoses unclamped
BTW, after idling for only 10 minutes, thag aluminum radiator hose was HOT. There is our heat SOURCES inches away from MC. TOMORROW WE TRY
 

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Pics of access. Clevis pin was fun under dash. 1 more inch for hands would be nice!!
 

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Here it is! Plenty of room!!
 

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Stock unit is a POS! Absolutely no advantage to removing clam once you pop 2 of the push pins that hold left side of airflow tray. I removed the 3 LF corner clam to bumper screws and the A pillar screws, shims etc. Then I removed a few top bolts and the washer reservoir hose. The key was leaving the headlights untouched!! I will check torque on those pesku front bolts tomorrw when closing up.That is more of an issue than the clam. Easy to mix up the solid line for new MC with a brake line which sits, of course, immediately in front of what you want. Ask me how I know. The reservoir hose should be aligned and installed first. the tighten up the base for that hose assembly to MC. The other line can wait till later. BTW pull that line in the beginning to drain the reservoir below the low level hose. Had little mess as a result except my moment of stupidity after I removed the MC and pushed on it....OOPs!
 

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Installed but not done yet. The damn allen screw for the clutch switch has got me on the run. Can't get 2 hands under there. Clutch height is spot on. It helped to put pin thru early in the install to hold the cylinder up tight to the wall. Very nice fit. Clevis pin wasn't even that bad. Would have been much smarte r if they designed that under dash area with 2 more inches of space. Easy to do considering all the overhanging aluminum. Check main bolt holes first before install. Mine were Zero tolerance. Too bad they weren't threaded. Be a hell of a lot easier than a bolt under dash and a nut under clam! Took some funky universal wrangling to get things in...and wife came to rescue to stabilize the nuts while I worked under the dash. YOU need 2 people for the bolts.

Back to the clutch switch. Only way I'm going to get 2 hands under there is by removing the seat. My shoulders just don't fit. Any tips are welcome. Punted for today. Tomorrow I finish up and bleed everything etc.
 

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When I'm done, let's move this over to the How To section. There isn't a MC How to listed yet. I will fill in the details as I button things back up.
 

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Well the switch is rubix engineering. If ever a snap was needed to stabilize before fixing with the screw....
Stuff a wad of paper, cardboard etc next to it. Then when you scratch and get hand over top you can adjust the opening and hole.. Dumbass design. They must use oommpa loompas on the assembly line.

BTW, all this time that we talk about the "Master Cylinder", folks forget to differentiate between the Clutch MC and the Brake MC. This is a major source of confusion among many folks wondering what the interaction between brakes and clutch fluid really is. I almost went after the brake MC till I stopped to think. Clutch MC is 3-4 inches from a hot radiator line. It is a plastic piece of crap. Lotus should be embarassed. The Wilwood unit is a Quality piece and fits to perfection. Just adjust the set screw on dash at least 75-80% in to start and you will be pretty darn close to ideal. The gasket will most likely be shot, I didn't bother with it as the new unit fits so damn perfect and some residual soft stuff got compressed as it was tightened the final turns on each screw.
Time to go button things up.
 
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There is a little more wiggle room if you remove the knee bolster on the bottom of the dash to get at the clevis pin and clutch switch. It's held in with two torx screws and Velcro
 

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Clutch MC is 3-4 inches from a hot radiator line. It is a plastic piece of crap.
That's the theory of why CMC failures over here seem more prevalent than in RHD areas. It's strange that Lotus decided to do away with the metal CMC and went with plastic, but seeing as both seem to soak up heat based on proximity, it probably didn't matter much. I wonder if there's a benefit to be had of insulating those radiator pipes while you have it apart?
 

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The clutch line was RIGHT up against the radiator line previously , so the fluid cook nice and hot as well. I have rerouted the new stainless line up and over from the radiator. 3-4 inches is better than against!. Pedal is a bit firmer now, but its also obvious the affect it has on shifting, the notchiness is gone!
BTW with my EZ Blleder, it was fully bled in a minute. Took far longer to drop undertray.
While I was there, I also changed the rear sway bar bushings as the rear section was only 4 more screws.

Last up over next few days. Front sway bushings and shifter linkages and she is good to go!
 

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Please disable the inability to edit posts. Did much of this while taking breaks from the job on my phone. Typos are ineveitable
 

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Thanks for posting, this is good information. I know how time consuming it can be to type it all up, take pictures, etc, etc.
 

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I'd like our Moderators to move the relevant info over to a How To section if possible as it is one of the more common fixes we need to deal with on Evora....right up there with "red hose syndrome" on the old esprit.
 

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Wrapped up doing this as well, though I went on with removing the front clam, what a mess that was, getting everything to fit back up along with the headlights. Headlights weren't horrible, as noted you can unbolt the SC oil cooler and get the same space in the opposite side. Not that it turns into a walk in the park, but manageable for the removal. Putting back together and aligning was a different story...

The main highlight I think that brg also noted was to get the fork and pin onto the clutch as it's coming in, gives you the "most" space to work with. I couldn't take off the potentiometer as the brake servo bolts were stuck and I could not get those bolts off with the space available. Also throw some towels around and something soft on the floor mats; avoid the carpet burn getting your arm in a good spot.

One tool that might help could be a flexible shaft extension/driver, you can sneak it in and get it tightened down a decent amount while giving your arms a break.
 

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ZU, exactly what I did with the bolts. Socket, universal with tape to minimize floppiness and 2 long extensions. Good point. Its done. The bruise on my right shoulder will heal. DRIVES GREAT NOW!!! Shifter linkages go in this weekend along with front sway bushings..Front undertray is no biggie now that washers are siliconed in place.
 
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