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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 06 Exige that I just bought a month ago with a BWR supercharger and I thinkt its got Charlies tune on it.

I had it at the track all day friday with no problems, after my second session on Saturday I came and parked the car. I then went back to it 15 min later and I got in and tried to start it and CLICK CLICK CLICK. Ok, so the braille battery is dead, I jump it, let it idle for 3 minutes, get in and try to drive down to get some gas. It sounded like the car was running on two cylinders and sputtering then it quit. I can keep jumping it then this happens.

I bought a new Odessy battery last night figuring that it would fix it. I just got back from my 1st session of the day and within the last 5 minutes the car acted like it was not heated up and would hit the rev limiter at 6.5k rmp.

The check engine lights and all the other lights came on saturday after jumping it then it stalling. This morning with the new battery the check engine light was still on but I figured it was because of what happened yesterday and it has to be reset.


Anyone know what might be wrong? If I take it to the dealer will they screw up my tune for the blower?

Thanks! This is very frusterating, so far I've missed 2/4 sessions and looks like I'm going to miss my other 3 today. :mad:

My window track is also screwed up too, british cars
 

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Aren't the BWR kits known for failed alternators due to eat from the header?
 

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put a meter on the battery with the car running.set the meter to 20 volts.it should read between 13 and 14 volts.if not then you have problems with wiring or the alt.
+1

Everyone who owns a car should own a digital multimeter these days. They are readily available, can be purchased easily for less than $10, and are extremely useful for this kind of diagnosis. I suggest setting the meter as described above and attaching the leads to the battery before you even turn on the key. Write down the voltage reading and then turn the ignition on and again write down the reading. Now have someone press the starter button while you watch the meter and if the car starts, write this reading down.

Your initial reading with everything off should be about or above 12.4V and if less than 12V you need to charge the battery before continuing. The second reading with the ignition on should again be above 12V. If you see anything less, either your battery is failing or you did not give it a full charge. With the starter engaged, you should see a voltage drop due to the large draw, but it should not fall below 10V. Once the engine is running, the reading should be above 13V so if it only reads the same or slightly less than the reading you took with only the ignition on, this indicates a failure in the charging system. If at any time your battery reads less than 11V under no load, you most likely have sulfated cells or internal battery damage and the battery will need to be replaced. Remember to only do these tests to a fully charged battery. If you find your fully charged battery fails any of these tests, remove it and take it to your local auto parts store to have it load tested which will confirm whether the battery has failed of not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think and hope its just the alternator and not in the wiring b/c that gets expensive at dealer rates. I took the new and fully charged battery out and put it on a tender and its been on the tender for an hour and its still charging. I don't have a voltage meter here at the track. I'm going to try to take out the fuse for the headlights and whatever else that doesnt need to draw power so I can get it home (60 miles from VIR:)

I wonder if the S/C voids the warranty on the "electrical system" I know it voids it on the engine, but the alternator is part of the electrical system. I'll have it rebuilt and do it myself if not
 

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A "Maintainer" or "Tender" will not charge a depleted battery, they are simply to keep a fully charged battery fully charged, what you need is a "Charger". Follow what Tesprit indicated and that should give you a better idea of what is going on. The BWR installation regarding the alternator is certainly a strong possibility.The other thing I would add is that you can't take an accurate voltage reading from a recently charged battery, the surface charge has to be removed first. Refer to this http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f129/battery-choices-information-64071/ and see "Battery Testing".
Cheers,
Michael
I think and hope its just the alternator and not in the wiring b/c that gets expensive at dealer rates. I took the new and fully charged battery out and put it on a tender and its been on the tender for an hour and its still charging. I don't have a voltage meter here at the track. I'm going to try to take out the fuse for the headlights and whatever else that doesnt need to draw power so I can get it home (60 miles from VIR:)

I wonder if the S/C voids the warranty on the "electrical system" I know it voids it on the engine, but the alternator is part of the electrical system. I'll have it rebuilt and do it myself if not
 

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if there are plenty of people running at this event.then ask around for a meter and a charger.most folks at the track are more than willing to help you get back on track.this problem could be as simple as a loose connection somewhere in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i stole my brother's S2000 and have been driving it. I will try these things when I get home. S2000 is pretty fun on the track actually, turns in great, points and shoots
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
there was a guy up here on the south course in a cup car and I asked him if he had ever heard of any alternator problems but he didn't know. people are friendly here, ive got a big battery ghetto rigged to drive it home on
 

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I believe the BWR kit, at first, had two problems with the alternator. They have failures in some brackets cracking and yes, I've also heard that heat was causing some of the alternators to have issues after it was relocated by the kit. I would say, get a voltmeter and see how the batter looks and the alternator looks. And it's a real b*tch, but you can remove the alternator and get it tested separately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
12.25 volts with the car off. 11.99 with the car running, must be the alternator. I put a big battery in it to drive it home and the check engine light actually went off! I guess I'll get this one rebuilt or see what the deal is later tonight. Fun times
 

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Check all the wiring to the alternator, solder the crimp connectors on the "big red wire" (both ends). Check the three wires to the plug on the alternator, they are known to get cooked before, pay attention to wire routing.
I have had my BWR installed for over a year now, no problems with the alternator getting damaged. FWIW, I have removed my heat shielding and added a rear panel eliminator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Check all the wiring to the alternator, solder the crimp connectors on the "big red wire" (both ends). Check the three wires to the plug on the alternator, they are known to get cooked before, pay attention to wire routing.
I have had my BWR installed for over a year now, no problems with the alternator getting damaged. FWIW, I have removed my heat shielding and added a rear panel eliminator.
I have a panel eliminator, but I figured that removing the heat shielding would be worse for the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
mmmm errrr does anyone know what type of wrench you need to loosen the belt tensioner?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i see, need to get some of those, wasn't in my 36 million piece craftsman set i got 10 years ago.
 
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