put a meter on the battery with the car running.set the meter to 20 volts.it should read between 13 and 14 volts.if not then you have problems with wiring or the alt.
+1put a meter on the battery with the car running.set the meter to 20 volts.it should read between 13 and 14 volts.if not then you have problems with wiring or the alt.
it does look pretty close to the header!Aren't the BWR kits known for failed alternators due to eat from the header?
I think and hope its just the alternator and not in the wiring b/c that gets expensive at dealer rates. I took the new and fully charged battery out and put it on a tender and its been on the tender for an hour and its still charging. I don't have a voltage meter here at the track. I'm going to try to take out the fuse for the headlights and whatever else that doesnt need to draw power so I can get it home (60 miles from VIR
I wonder if the S/C voids the warranty on the "electrical system" I know it voids it on the engine, but the alternator is part of the electrical system. I'll have it rebuilt and do it myself if not
I have a panel eliminator, but I figured that removing the heat shielding would be worse for the alternator.Check all the wiring to the alternator, solder the crimp connectors on the "big red wire" (both ends). Check the three wires to the plug on the alternator, they are known to get cooked before, pay attention to wire routing.
I have had my BWR installed for over a year now, no problems with the alternator getting damaged. FWIW, I have removed my heat shielding and added a rear panel eliminator.
It should be 19mm and use a 6 point socket.i cant remember what size it is.but there is a hex on the side of the tensioner.whatever wrench or socket fits it.turn the hex and it with take the tension off the belt.