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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well after a very nice very early morning drive started on my next Elise exploration...removing the engine under pan...is held on by (11) 8 mm bolts and (2) 8 mm allen head screws (thus the answer to why we have an 8 mm allen head wrench in the 'tool kit').

No big deal to remove the pan....just remove all bolts and screws except the back middle bolt ((1) of 5 in a row)...save that last since pan will drop when the last bolt is released...just hold pan in hand and pull to rear of car and it releases...be careful not to scratch...really pretty piece of work.

Here are a series of pics showing what is down there including the oil filter and drain plug (once pan is removed both ARE a piece of cake to access>>>


Also had a chance to see how the oil cooler system is plumbed...it is a large loop type...in this pic you can see the feed line/connector on the left and the return line/connector on the right (pic is taken looking straight up at filter and rear of car is towards the bottom of pic)


So oil goes from left line to front right side oil cooler (line runs inside the chassis tube that makes up the sill we have to hump over) then loops to left front oil cooler and then returns down back (via the driviers side chassis tube/sill) to oil mount shown in pic and enters engine from the right line/connector.

Here is a view looking forward to the front engine mount (the 'Y' shaped cable system is the emergency brake set up)>>>



Here is an overview of bottom of engine looking from driver side to opposite side...still nice work where ever you look :clap:



Now to the only thing I suggest you look out for..and this is going to be somewhat difficult to explain since the pic does not do well in an orientation..in the first pic if you look just in front of the wheel opening you will see an 'L' shaped aluminum looking tube (AC line) and then a black tube (oil line) directly behind it... the oil line has a clip on it that attaches to body so as to keep the line from moving about (really tight quarters here)... well on both of the clips (each side of the car and same spot) the clip retainer (keeps clip closed) was missing...I tried to capture this item in this pic>>>>



Not the best pic but when you are under car what I am talking about is very evident...maybe just on my car but suggest checking at some point. I just locked the clip closed using black nylon wire ties (you can see in pic if you REALLY look hard)

Here is the under engine pan...cleaned it up a bit (not bad but did have some very high grade clear grease dribbled on a few areas..not much but would be a dirt collector>>



That's it for this exploration
Michael
 

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zvezdah1 said:
I've lightened up Michael's pic, is the part you're talking about the black plastic looking ring around the oil line?
Chris
Yes, that's it. The arrow is pointing directly to the tie he installed to hold that ring closed. The ring clamp itself is actually attached to the chassis sub-assembly.

(I'm Michael's scribe.) ;)
 

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Thanks from me also, Michael. It's nice to have these pictures as a reference, as well as simply to enjoy looking at.

Kinda like a "virtual Elise ownership" thing... :)
 

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thank you!!
i'm one of those still waiting, but it's great to know all the little things to look for once she arrives!
btw, i noticed your 2-by-4 on the jack, very good idea.

questions, do you think ramps will work?? or is she too low and the nose/tail will scrape??

btw, i eventually want to get a 4 post storage lift: a- to clean underneath and work on her like oil changes etc, and b- to park mydaily driver inside too!
thanks again!
 

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Surferjer said:
I'm certain that ramps will lead to SCRAPE and then heartache! DON'T DO IT! :no:
I would use the heavy one piece thermoplastic ramps with a pair of "approach wedges" to keep the splitters from snagging the ramps.
I don't believe there is any car manufactured after 1990 that won't sustain damage to the front fascia when attempting to drive up on ramps.
m
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ramps might work>>>

Elise has about a 6" clearance under the front fascia but in the area where the ramp would meet the tire the fascia tucks away a bit thus giving a cleaner shot at the tire..but I would be very cautious using ramps..and as thegit said approach wedges a must. I use 2x8 boards with a slope entrance to drive car onto so as just to give a bit of extra clearance over the sissor lift...the underside of the Elise is beautiful aluminum but boy you could mess it up easily..
Michael
 

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surferjer, thegit and arno -

thank you for the feedback!!! though i have until 1st qtr, it's still good to know. i might be a year away from affording the 4 post lift, so i'll check into rhinoramps too.
:bow:
 

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I bottomed out leaving another driveway tonight. Very little damage this time. You have to be so very careful with this car.

I, too, will check out Rhinoramps, but I will be very leery. :(
 

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There's really no risk of damaging the car when trying the Rhinoramps. When you put them in place, you quickly see if they can reach the wheels without touching body work. If they touch, you get a good impression of how much is missing, and you drive the car on a couple of boards of the corresponding dimensions first.

Ramps are great, worth the $30 many times over. I use them for anything that doesn't require the wheels to be removed.
 

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ConeFusion said:
Ramps are great, worth the $30 many times over. I use them for anything that doesn't require the wheels to be removed.
Rhino Ramps are even better when you can buy them at Wal-Mart for less than $20. They work very well, and are definitely worth the money. I use them on my R package Miata, which is a bit lower than normal, and has an additional front lip spoiler. The Rhino Ramps work great.

But one question - don't we want to back the Elise up on ramps to get the rear in the air?;)
 

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Surferjer said:
I bottomed out leaving another driveway tonight. Very little damage this time. You have to be so very careful with this car.

I, too, will check out Rhinoramps, but I will be very leery. :(
SECTOR 111, WE NEED YOU!

Where is that chin guard? Alumium or any other scuff/impact resistant material to protect the chin of the car. I am affraid to let people drive my car and park it as I know they will get to close to thge curb and brake the chin.
 
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