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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about to start my clutch upgrade prior to finishing my TVS install. I have the Lotus manual instructions and the celica manual instructions. I'm expecting it to be a pain but looking at it as a learning experience. I have the clam off and a lift to make access under the car easier. I also removed the throttlebody, air intake, and air box as part of the TVS install so it should be a snap to get to the bell housing bolts. I'll take plently of pics. There really aren't a good set of instructions out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I plan to unbolt the engine (replacing the mounts with innovative) and use a stand jack to tilt it up on the right side to allow clearance to drop tranny on the left.



Are you pulling the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm not sure about that but I'm if I can muttle thru it without major problems I'll be happy. The instructions often make assumptions about familiarity with parts and procedures. I have no clue what I'm doing and need everything spelled out. Still I'll give it a whirl and hope for the best. BTW, the lift is a big help. I originally got it for storage purposes but it makes working on the Elise much easier.

I forgot you have the lift.

Should be cake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Ok I got stuck on the first step LOL. I have to get a deep 30mm socket to get the driveshaft nut off. It is also torqued pretty darn high. It may be a reverse thread to boot. I took a good look at the directions. Looks like you have to free up the drive axle by removing the brake caliper, rotor, unbolting the upper wishbone to hub carrier, remove the lower wishbone, and either unbolt or remove toe link. I also think I need a ball joint separater.
 

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Ok I got stuck on the first step LOL. I have to get a deep 30mm socket to get the driveshaft nut off. It is also torqued pretty darn high. It may be a reverse thread to boot. I took a good look at the directions. Looks like you have to free up the drive axle by removing the brake caliper, rotor, unbolting the upper wishbone to hub carrier, remove the lower wishbone, and either unbolt or remove toe link. I also think I need a ball joint separater.
Yea they can be difficult... You can lock your e-brake really tight and try to use a breaker bar with a pipe, but the preferred method would be to use an impact wrench... Don't remove the brakes etc until after you have removed that nut. I've never taken mine off of the Lotus, but I seriously doubt they are left handed threads since the have a castle nut and cotter pin in them.

To separate the ball joints just remove the nuts and then smack the area right next to where the ball joint connects to the spindle with a hammer. Be careful to not hit or tear the ball joint boot or miss and hit the threads.
 

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...

To separate the ball joints just remove the nuts and then smack the area right next to where the ball joint connects to the spindle with a hammer. Be careful to not hit or tear the ball joint boot or miss and hit the threads.
A good ball joint separator is pretty cheap and makes the process fast and mistake proof... when putting them back together make sure the ball joint stud and its mating surface are clean... otherwise you might have problems torquing it down properly
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Man, That makes sense, wouldn't be a pin if it were reverse.


Yea they can be difficult... You can lock your e-brake really tight and try to use a breaker bar with a pipe, but the preferred method would be to use an impact wrench... Don't remove the brakes etc until after you have removed that nut. I've never taken mine off of the Lotus, but I seriously doubt they are left handed threads since the have a castle nut and cotter pin in them.

To separate the ball joints just remove the nuts and then smack the area right next to where the ball joint connects to the spindle with a hammer. Be careful to not hit or tear the ball joint boot or miss and hit the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was able to get the axle nut off with breaker bar and my floor jack bar. Then I removed the brake caliper. The emergency brake cable has to be disconnected first which was tricky. You have to grab the end firmly with a vice grips and push down on the spring arm while sliding the cable to the exit point. Sounds easy took me a while to figure out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
After removing the brake caliper I removed the bolts from the upper wishbone to the hub carrier, the toe link, and the lower wishbone ball joint. The toe link and lower wishone tapered bolts are tough to break free from the hub carrier. The ball joint tool loooked like it would damage the boots. I found another tool called a toe link tool that worked better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The damper and the two lower wishbone mounting bolts came out pretty easy. Unfortunately there is always one bolt that doesn't behave. I couldn't loosen the small allen bolt holding the rotor on. I almost stripped the darn thing. I put some PB rust braker on and will let it soak for a couple of days. Anybody have a suggestion? I could put a torch to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I also was wondering if the whole drive axle comes out and where it is safe to pry/pull. This is the inner joint. I think it has to come out of the gear box. There is a little space where I could pry. I was thinking of putting a ratching strap on to add constant pressure
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Here is a pic of the RH drive axle center mount. I think I just remove the two mounting bolts to the engine case and it will pull out of the transaxle. I don't think I have to remove the other two.
 

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After removing the brake caliper I removed the bolts from the upper wishbone to the hub carrier, the toe link, and the lower wishbone ball joint. The toe link and lower wishone tapered bolts are tough to break free from the hub carrier. The ball joint tool loooked like it would damage the boots. I found another tool called a toe link tool that worked better.
Definitely DO NOT use the pickle fork (your top picture) unless you don't plan to reuse the ball joint... a proper ball joint separator has a recess for the ball and boot so they're not damaged:
 

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Anybody have a suggestion? I could put a torch to it.
Some people swear by Kroil for helping to unlock those stubborn rotor bolts.

Just search for Kroil here and you'll find a few threads on removing rotors.

Thank you for documenting this by the way...I'll be referencing it and your TVS install later in the Fall. :up: :popcorn:
 

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Unfortunately there is always one bolt that doesn't behave. I couldn't loosen the small allen bolt holding the rotor on. . Anybody have a suggestion? I could put a torch to it.
Usually you will need to use an impact screwdriver on those...



If you don't have one then another way to do it is put the allen wrench in the bolt and then put an adjustable wrench on the allen wrench and apply a little bit of turning force. While doing this pop the end of the allen wrench with a hammer and it should come loose.

Actually come to think of it why do you even need to remove the rotor? You should be able to pull the axel out as long as you have the nut off and the brake caliper removed so you can swing it out of the way for clearance.

When you remove the drive shaft do not pull on it. You can separate the CV Joint inside the boot if you do that. You will want to pry in between the CV joint cup and transmission to remove it. Some times a dead blow hammer can be useful here if you have enough room to thwack it. When doing this be careful to not mess up the rubber seals on the transmission case. The Axle/CV joint is held in place by a C clip that fits in to a grove in side the diff, you basically need to use just enough force to pop that C clip out of it's groove and then it will be fee. Also be sure to drain the transmission prior to pulling the axles or you will have a nice mess going on before you know it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I like that set. I'm trying to figure out how to position the one you marked. I was able to pop both with the second one I pictured but it didn't fit the toe link very well. It was a snap for the wishbone though.


Definitely DO NOT use the pickle fork (your top picture) unless you don't plan to reuse the ball joint... a proper ball joint separator has a recess for the ball and boot so they're not damaged:
 

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I like that set. I'm trying to figure out how to position the one you marked. I was able to pop both with the second one I pictured but it didn't fit the toe link very well. It was a snap for the wishbone though.
The separator looks a bit like a clothespin... if you look carefully at the upper right, you can see the top surface is contoured to fit between the top of the upright and the rubber boot of the ball joint. The piece on the bottom right fits against the ball joint stud. Then you just slowly crank down on the bolt on the left, and it pushes the stud out of the upright.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I'll give this a try and see if I can order an impact screw driver. BTw, you are right I likely do not need to remove the rotor although it makes it a little more combersome to maneuver the axle.

Usually you will need to use an impact screwdriver on those...



If you don't have one then another way to do it is put the allen wrench in the bolt and then put an adjustable wrench on the allen wrench and apply a little bit of turning force. While doing this pop the end of the allen wrench with a hammer and it should come loose.

Actually come to think of it why do you even need to remove the rotor? You should be able to pull the axel out as long as you have the nut off and the brake caliper removed so you can swing it out of the way for clearance.

When you remove the drive shaft do not pull on it. You can separate the CV Joint inside the boot if you do that. You will want to pry in between the CV joint cup and transmission to remove it. Some times a dead blow hammer can be useful here if you have enough room to thwack it. When doing this be careful to not mess up the rubber seals on the transmission case. The Axle/CV joint is held in place by a C clip that fits in to a grove in side the diff, you basically need to use just enough force to pop that C clip out of it's groove and then it will be fee. Also be sure to drain the transmission prior to pulling the axles or you will have a nice mess going on before you know it.
 
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