Hi there! Why not register as a user to enjoy all of the benefits of the site? You may register here. When you register, please pick a username that is non-commercial. If you use a name that appears on any search engine commercially, you must pick another name, whether it applies to you or not. Commercial usernames are for supporting vendor use only. If you want to become a supporting vendor and grow your business, please follow this link. Thanks!
I'll be posting updates on the progress of my TVS install. I also plan to do a clutch, engine mounts and the fuel surge tank. Any thoughts or comments are welcome. I have limited experience so keep that in mind as I progress.
I decided to go with the EFI. I wanted the ability to adjust the base tune as I further modify my engine. I don't plan to "open" the engine this year but likely will do valves/springs/pistons/and a charge cooler in the future. I just don't see how a flash would do. I also have a CAI (turbo XS) and Larini exhaust. I might straight pipe the cat for the track this summer. How the heck can a flash account for all that?:shrug:
Phil's directions are great. My perspective is definitely one of a less experienced mechanic (I do learn fast though). I'm making notes along the way and will pass them along to Phil. I also have the Lotus manual (downloaded) as a back-up.
They really are easy to understand. You're going to love the TVS setup, it's amazing power. Happy to help out too via phone or PM. Best of luck with the install! :up:
I noticed that you have a jack holding up the car at jacking point "A" (at the end of the chassis rail). You're making me nervous, that's dangerously close to the CG of the car... (even though you've got the clam and the rear wheels off).
Position D (rear subframe) is a good place for a jackstand, particularly if you're going to be under the car. Since it's on the gavanized steel frame, no hockey pucks are required.
Except for me, the idiot who kept stalling your car, no grin in the beginning..
That is the shortest clutch I have ever driven!
Thanks for the drive Dave, crazy power!!
I loved it but Phil's neighbors, not so much....
Can anyone provide specifics on the adapters needed for the throttlebody bypass and the U hose elimination? The bypasses are mentioned in the directions and sound like a good idea.
Sure, just disconnect the TB coolant lines and route one of the coolant lines back onto the head... You're essentially just taking the the TB out of the loop... On the U-bend, just cut the coolant hose that makes up that u bend and use it. It's already a formed hose that will work perfect for the task. It's much easier to understand once the intake id off the car, etc...
I'll get some photos of TB bypass as you suggested and post at a later date. I have a good idea of how it is to be done. The above photos are courtesy of Mainelotus.
I'll get some photos of TB bypass as you suggested and post at a later date. I have a good idea of how it is to be done. The above photos are courtesy of Mainelotus.
Your install is looking great, your car looks like mine right now but I am mid BWR install. Anyway, dont mean to hijack your thread but, this whole coolant TB Bypass discussion, I just finished my BWR install on an 06. I dont recall seeing anything like this. Did lotus eliminate this with the DBW?
TVS is definitely the smart and cost effective choice to get to what I feel is the max the chassis/drivetrain can withstand in stock form. Without an IC you'll get even better throttle response and less weight.
To make my M62 deliver the same HP consistantly, I would need to add air/water charge cooler, water pumps, monitor pressure, etc. etc. -- a lot of weight for the same results as a TVS with no IC. TVS is a simple elegant solution, but so are most of Phil's solutions - top notch.
If we continue off subject nobody will be able to see my install posts. Not trying to be a downer, just want the thread to be useful for guys like me that need lots of help with the mechanical stuff. Maybe I could clean things up a bit later on if that doesn't offend anyone.
Phil, for the BWR kit conversion the alternator stays in the same spot or do you recommend to put it back and relocate the charcoal canister? what are your thoughts on this? hope this isn't too off topic.
For BWR kits, you move alternator back original location, as the alternator ties into the nose support for the blower. We provide the same simple bracket that we use on the Katana kit for charcoal canister relocation... Nothing too fancy, but functions plenty well and doesn't weigh a thing. Although with the EFI, I doubt anyone will run the canister I'm starting to question whether to include the canister bracket at all...
Would the charcoal canister be needed when we have to go for an inspection. I'll have to reconnect the OEM ECU once a year and swap out the fuel injectors but what about the charcoal canister?
I've taken to working with the Lotus manual and the instructions side by side. The manual had a few good suggestions on decreasing the fuel pressure and volume. If your engine will not start like mine then just turning the engine over for 20sec will do or you can disconnect this safety lock
I found you need to disconnect the electrical connection to the VVT valve and the brackets for the coil wires to lift the fuel rail up and out of the way.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
The Lotus Cars Community
2.7M posts
51.5K members
Since 2002
A forum community dedicated to all Lotus owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!