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Lotus supplied new locking nuts to replace the weld nuts and the new nuts are now installed. Other than getting the weld nuts off, it is very straight forward. We have it all on now and it was not that big of a deal. Maybe an hour's work to get the nuts off, and an hour's work for everything else.

I carefully measured the distance from centers for the existing rods and recreated that, and will do a crude tape measure style toe setting tomorrow.
 

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Randy Chase said:
Lotus supplied new locking nuts to replace the weld nuts and the new nuts are now installed.
Randy,

Just to make it clear (since I think two versions of the track link brace are being discussed), you are installing the "old style" track link brace, not the "new" one. The major difference being that the old one bolts on in the middle (what you are doing), and the new one just connects the track links.

Both braces replace the normal track link (toe link) ball joint with a Heim joint on the inner end. There are no bushing involved at all...

Do I have that right?
 

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Correct.
 

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MyElise said:
Do you think that Colin rose from the dead and designed out toe links?
Colin isn't dead - he's alive and well in Argentina. I'm sure he secretly still has his hand in the designs...;)
 

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I got the bar installed. Using the dremel and a chizel and a BF breaker bar, they came off just fine. The end links are sealed, but installed they are cocked over so far the seal opens a bit and one of mine actually came off. Since it was only $600:eek: I am taking it back under warranty.
 

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New end joint-
<img src="http://www.elisetalk.com/gallery/files/track-brace-end.JPG" alt="Track Brace installation" />

Note slight dremeling out of sheet metal bracket around bolt heads.

<img src="http://www.elisetalk.com/gallery/files/track-brace-bolts.JPG" alt="Track Brace installation" />

Brace completed! :)

<img src="http://www.elisetalk.com/gallery/files/track-brace.JPG" alt="Track Brace installation" />
 

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Randy, Where did you get those jackstands? They're gorgeous and dont look like they will reach out and grab my creeper the way my 30 year old jackstands do.
 

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fzust said:
Randy, Where did you get those jackstands? They're gorgeous and dont look like they will reach out and grab my creeper the way my 30 year old jackstands do.
I really like them. From another thread-

(note company car in background of pic)

Randy Chase said:
-continued hijack-

I bought some new alum jackstands today from Pep Boys... for the UberClam project. I think they are awesome. $50 a pair. A bit pricey, but they look sweet.


The jackstands are something called Big Red from Torin.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200313386_200313386

Nice features include the detent ball on the pin. The sliding sections lock in and don't fall out. They are light. The fit right on the jacking points once you remove the diffusers.
 

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I think you can also get those jack stands (or something remarkably similar in look) at Costo. Comes with a race jack.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
I have lots of the new rear brace kits in stock!!! I will work with all ET members on price..............
 

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There are two rear braces el cheapO and the proper brace as on Randys
car...but I'm sure you don't need one after six months......Only intended for track use......NOT..
 

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Discussion Starter #95
I actually meant to say " For all ET Members EXCEPT MYELISE" rotfl .........See you later John
 

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ronin said:
There are two rear braces el cheapO and the proper brace as on Randys
car...but I'm sure you don't need one after six months......Only intended for track use......NOT..
Not this again...

The toe link brace replaces the toe link ball joint with a heim joint. The original is a ball joint, essentially the same as a tie rod ball joint. These have been know to fail in cars that are heavily tracked, especially when run with race rubber that increases the G-force loadings on the link. They do not get this excessive loading on the street, so the brace isn't really needed. The ball joint is attached with a bolt in "single shear", and is replaced with the heim joint that is attached with a bolt in "double shear".

But like all things in life, there are trade offs. The ball joint is well sealed and will likely last a long time (off the track at least), while stronger, is not as well sealed, and is probably much more likely to be subject to excessive wear when the car is street driven.

In some conditions (excessive track use - is there such a thing?;) ), the brace and heim joint is a better option. In other cases (street use) the original ball joint is probably preferable.

In either case, check the torque (tightness) of the attachment at least after every oil charge - more for track usage.
 

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Well, well, well, for your information when I was having lunch with Nick Adams and the boys he said a little more than your little bulletin. But feel free to leave your car bone stock that's up to you. If the man says it's a good saftey measure I'd go with that.....it's not just for the track anymore...
Tim if you don't like what I have to say bugger off.
 

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Sat right next to the man and yes he said it's a good idea. Better to have it then wish you did. If you drive the crap out of it on the track or the canyons. I do both so it's one less thing to worry about since Nov 05.
The new design is also a great cost cutting method but I still belive you get what you pay for. now to remove my rear panels so that I can see my exhaust and have a spot of tea..
 

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Does installing this bar much up the alignment on the rear? If I do this, will I need to get the car re-aligned?

Thanks.
 
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