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Factory Track Pack Recommended Set up

97K views 163 replies 55 participants last post by  jds62f 
#1 ·
Several of you out there have ordered or already have the optional Track Package on your MY06 Elise or Exige. There is no mention of the recommended set up for street and track use in the manual. There will be an addendum sent out but until that arrives, I wanted to post this for your convenience. This is just the recommended set up and you might find that your style of driving or the track conditions require some fine tuning of the settings or set up............................







 
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#102 ·
MyElise said:
So Tim, as an engineer, you don't see any material difference between the two toe link braces?

Personally, I don't need polished suspension parts any more than I need polished stainless exhaust systems.
The original brace attached to the chassis in the middle - the new ones leave that attachment off. I would think the original would be ultimately stronger, but if Lotus insists that the new one is sufficient...:shrug:

As for the polished parts, etc.; I agree, I don't need that on my "hidden" parts. The way that the new brace attaches to the toe links/heim joints should be plenty strong - it would be nice if they had left the chassis bracket in the middle there though...

FlyLo said:
Does installing this bar much up the alignment on the rear? If I do this, will I need to get the car re-aligned?
As Randy said, Yes, and yes.

To install the brace, you remove the original toe links from the track rods, and replace them with the new ones. Since these are what you use to adjust the "steering angle" of the rear suspension - the rear toe, you need to re-align the rear (at least)...
 
#103 ·
Mark,

Thanks for the info, however, my 2006 Elise Sport does not have the track pack set up. It has Ohlins with remote reservoirs in both the front and back to adjust compression damping. The rebound damping is adjusted with a collar similar to the track pack you described. So, I have two adjusters on each corner. There are no markings on any of them....just knobs to turn. The car was set up with all 8 adjustments fully counterclockwise (softest setting). I recently adjusted each knob one full turn clockwise and the result was much better handling (no wobble in hard turns on entrance ramps) with very little deterioration in ride quality. I could use some advice on the best way to set up my type of shocks....other wise it's going to be a lot of trial and error. Thanks in advance.

Lou
 
#105 ·
JnC said:
FWIW all, there was a update issued by Lotus about a month ago where the torque on the toe link lock nuts was increased from 50 to 60 Nm. (37 to 44 lb-ft.)
How and where was the update issued? This is the wrong place to post this. It should be in one of the many inner toe link failure threads. Or a new one.
 
#106 ·
#108 ·
#114 ·
Bruce said:
Well thanks for telling us. Is that new spec for all the old existing toe links or did they come out with a new one made from higher strength material?
I'm not aware of higher strength material. The tech just tightened up the existing link nuts.

One thing he did caution me about.... the Lotus lock nuts aren't intended to be removed. The hole in the nut isn't a circle, but a slight oval. If you remove it too many times, you run the risk of it not locking very well as it may become more circular with the added wear. But I suppose that's where the sector111 nord locks would come in handy.
 
#116 ·
Rear Link Torque spec

Bruce said:
Can Apogee confirm? With all the toe link hoopla it seems like we would have heard about this.
I posted a reply to a E.T.er on 9-14-96 post #41 #42 #43 on a thread about
rod link ends, only to counter mis-info he had given. Hope that helps.
Cheers, Don.
 
#118 ·
MyElise said:
Use a little blue loctite and you don't have to worry about it.
In Stans voice.... Torque spec is for a clean dry thread.
Sorry I missed Lime Rock today... something came up.
Cheers, Don.
 
#121 ·
Jack said:
Better turn-in, more responsive steering -- a little toe-out in front is even better. ;)
Uh, I think the question was camber, not toe.
;)

-0.1/-0.3 spec'd up front.

The average driver's natural tendency is better suited to a car that pushes so it's a safer set-up for a road car.

A little more camber is a good thing for a car that sees "off-highway" use.
;)
 
#125 ·
I was amazed at how loose those bolts were when I was changing my oil last month. I doubt they were at 30ft/lbs torque. Probably had them on there way to getting loose by running hard at LRP in June. Had me knocking out consistent 63-64's which is getting well into the cabailities of the car. I recommend all people check this!! It took ~ a full turn to get up to 50ft/lbs!
 
#126 ·
brgelise said:
I was amazed at how loose those bolts were when I was changing my oil last month. I doubt they were at 30ft/lbs torque. Probably had them on there way to getting loose by running hard at LRP in June. Had me knocking out consistent 63-64's which is getting well into the cabailities of the car. I recommend all people check this!! It took ~ a full turn to get up to 50ft/lbs!
Umm. You've overtightened it. The old spec was 50 Nm, now 60 Nm.

The current spec is 44 ft/lbs. Not 50.
 
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