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Discussion Starter #1
Picked the car up from the dealer on Sunday. Had some warranty stuff done to it, they also check the a/c as it craps out sometimes and doesn't cool. On the way home stopped at a gas station and when I got back in the fan wouldn't work. Going down the Interstate a bit of air was naturally forced through the vents so I turned the fan knobs and hit the a/c button and it got cold. This wasn't enough to do anything but verify what would and would not work. I checked the fan fuses and they were ok. Then I checked ALL fuses at 3 different spots just in case, again all were good. Fan still didn't work Monday so I called the service shop and asked if they could check with a tech and see if maybe something might not have been reconnected quite securely and I could check it. Still haven't heard back. Didn't drive Tuesday, Yesterday morning fan still didn't work. On the way home yesterday tried it again and the fan was working.

:wallbang: :wallbang: :wallbang:

It's way too hot down here to be playing these games. Has anybody else had this happen and have a fix? I'm still thinking just a loose connection somewhere.
 

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Fan stopped working, then started again.
Out of curiosity, are you talking about the cooling fan(s) or the the Heater/AC fan?
 

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I had somewhat similar issue

w/ my car. Picked up my car after a 1k mile check up. One day later, the A/C fan would not go off unless I turned the car off. My dealer was puzzled at first. After a full day, they figured out that the A/C fan switch was defective. Replaced it and it's been fine for a year now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A/C fan, sorry for not clarifying. I'm hoping it was a temporary problem since they were checking out the a/c.
 

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your ac evaporator core is freezing up......mine does it.....next time you notice the blower getting weak, turn the a/c button off(leave fan on high).....notice it stays cold for a couple of minutes......in about 4 minutes it will blow hard again...tun a/c button back on....evaporator temp sensor doesn't work quite right.....positioned wrong inside...... lol read your post again.....didn't realize that your blower didnt work when you first got in the car.....sorry this probably isn't the problem...
 

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Travis Chaney said:
your ac evaporator core is freezing up......mine does it.....next time you notice the blower getting weak, turn the a/c button off(leave fan on high).....notice it stays cold for a couple of minutes......in about 4 minutes it will blow hard again...tun a/c button back on....evaporator temp sensor doesn't work quite right.....positioned wrong inside...... lol read your post again.....didn't realize that your blower didnt work when you first got in the car.....sorry this probably isn't the problem...
BrokenR1's problem sounds more like mine than what you describe. My problem wasn't the fan being weak, but rather the problem was the fan working or not. When it works, it works at full flow. If it isn't working, it doesn't turn on at all.

The dealer just replaced the blower and drilled a drainage hole for the compartment. I pick the car up Wednesday. Then I'll see if the fix holds up.
 

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Stan said:
The heater/ac fan is down deep btw. The wiring is prone to water corrosion issues...if that is the issue...it's clam off time. A drainage hole can be drilled to greatly help future issues if it goes that far. Let me know! Check relays too.
I just had my fan replaced under warranty. It was indeed found by the dealer to be corroded. The front clam must be removed to do the repair, and it's a 4-5 hour job.
 

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Drainage holes size and locations

I had the blower replaced a few weeks ago, and they drilled the previously mentioned drainage holes. I am attaching a picture.

There are two holes drilled near the center line of the car underneath the compartment that holds the HVAC unit.

Hole locations:
Distance from hole center to front edge of lip that holds the rear edge of the forward access panel: (shown by a horizontal green line in the picture)
Front hole: 1.75 inches
Rear hole: 8 3/16 inches

Distance from right outside side edge of compartment to hole center as measured from underneath the car:
Front hole: 12 7/32 inches
Rear hole: 11 15/16 inches

Distance from left outside side edge of compartment to hole center as measured from underneath the car:
Front hole: 12 5/8 inches
Rear hole: 12 13/16 inches

Note: there was a bit of the red glue along the edges of the compartment for the front hole. This may have made the reading to be a bit on the high side for the front hole sides measurements.

The size of the holes was 3/8 inch diameter. The depth was about 1/4 inch, which is really drilling through two thin aluminum sheets that have a gap between them.

My only concern is water spraying getting up into the hole (say, in the gap between the two aluminum sheets). I was thinking of gluing some sort of little plastic shield over the holes that would be open torwards the back of the car, but shield from water spray from the front.

Of course, a one way valve would be nice so that water won't get in when driving through a deep puddle ;) (as I saw mentioned in another thread). Maybe a little float ball valve under the hole.
 

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Not exactly relevant...

...but another fan data point. A week ago we had a massive rainstorm in Phoenix, and as usual many of the surface streets accumulated a few of inches of standing water. I had to drive home through this and at times there was so much spray it felt like I was submerged! Anyhoo, just as I made it home the cabin interior fans cut out - no power to the AC panel/switches at all as far as I could tell.

The fuse for these fans is a 20 amp under the passenger side dash - you need to lay upside down in the passenger footwell to get to the fuse block. The fuse had blown, and replacing it solved the issue (I had let the car dry out overnight). If you don't have a replacement fuse handy you'll find a spare in the main fuse block under the front passenger side access panel - although you wouldn't know from reading the manual...:)

So, it looks like it's possible to pick up enough water to short the fans out, so I'd recommend taking it easy when traveling flooded streets or fording washes, etc.
 

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®ob said:
So all they do is just drill through the thin layer of sheet metal and thats it?
Other than the thought of adding some spray shields to the holes, what more could they do? I guess they could make the compartment better sealed at the top somehow, but that seems like a complete redesign.
 

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Found this thread in a search. My a/c fan quit working. Doesn't come on at all. Checked all fuses - OK. Sounds like my car will be spending some time at the dealer. :(

Mike
 

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Check to be sure you aren't turning the key too far to start the car. I know I did a number of times. The fan won't work if you hit the third position. Check your wipers to see if they work. If not, then you are too far in the key rotation. We are used to cars starting with a push through the on position. If you do that with the Elise, it will run, but certain things won't work. Fan, wipers, AC...
 

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Hmmmm. My ignition is spring loaded such that the key will not remain in the "start" position unless you hold it there.

xtn
 

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I came across this old thread while searching and thought it might help some of you folks. My heater/ac was acting a bit funny.
 

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My A/C Fan Just Stopped Also

Started up the car after it had been parked for 2-3 hours and immediately noticed the absence of air coming out of the vents. Drove home and checked the fuses -- they all seemed OK.

Anyone have a definitive idea of what is causing this? The car is due for servicing, so this makes the dealer visit a little more urgent! :)

-Mike
 

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This happened to me. Fan worked sporadically. It was the resistor pack that was going bad. The wires were all corroded. Lotus has a TSB on this. The fix is a new resistor pack, new wiring harness, they relocate the resistor pack so it doesn't sit in a pool of water, and also drill the drain holes.
 

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Was anyone's problem Intermittent? I was driving along, turned off the blower, tried to turn it on and nothing happened. I would seem that if something was getting corroded, that it would start to go or be weak for a while before shutting off. if the fuse is ok, are there any other possible solutions? Isn't there a relay for the blower switch? I ask as I had unbolted all the fuses and relay holders to relocate them to make room for a small amp under the dash, any chance something else may have come loose while driving last night?

Thanks.
 
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