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Discussion Starter #1
Haven't posted much about my FF275 kit on here. I meant to post a whole log on the DIY install, but just got busy with work and everything, I'm sure I'm preachin to the choir. Anyway, just wanted to provide an update if anyone is thinkin about installing the kit or has it already (beware, its a novel).

I've had 2 bad experiences with the kit since installation (Dec '06). Both happened after washing my car. The first time I wanted to pull my car into the garage after washing, only to find that the car almost wouldn't run at all. It was everything I could do to keep it running to get it into the garage. I thought this was very strange, because the car was running perfectly the day before. So I popped the trunk and found that a lot of water was sitting on top of the uni-chip piggy back and ECU harness. I figured that these should be built to withstand the elements, but that the water must be the root cause. It took 4 days to dry before the car would run normally again.
Afterwards I tried to avoid getting water in the engine compartment when washing and didn't have any problems until recently. I thought I kept from getting water into the engine bay but when I tried to start the car it had the same problems (wouldn't idle, running super rich). :sad: Come to find out that water was standing on the ECU area again. So left it for a couple days to dry. Came back 5 days later, car started up fine.:nanner: I was going to go out to eat, driving down a back road and BAM car dies. I coasted to the side of the road and let it sit for a bit, then it restarted. Got it all the way back home with no problems. I was stupid and decided I wanted to try my luck again the next day. Strangely enough, not a single problem. So I thought maybe it was just some strange bug. A couple days later I decide to go out again. Car is running fine. Get about 10 miles from the house, out on the interstate, and BAM, like hitting a brick wall if you're runnin 70 MPH and your engine suddenly chokes out:wallbang:. Luckily I was able to pull off to the side of the road without incident, and finally got it home.
So I get the car towed on a flatbed to the shop that did the original tune. They found that the pins in the ECU harness and Uni-chip were corroding, thus building up some oxidation that prevented good signal transfer through the pins. They "waterproofed" the area for me, so hopefully I don't have any more problems. Also got new tires, updated the Uni-chip software, and got a new tune on the shop's new Land&Sea Dyno-max steady state dyno.

Anyway...sorry that was a long story. The purpose of this thread is not to whine/bitch, just wanted to let the ForcedFed community know that it might be very advantageous to get the ECU area "waterproofed" to avoid any issues.

On a good note, the shop adjusted my suspension to a bit more aggressive profile, and the car pulled 270.2 HP at the wheel :evil:
Needless to say I had fun driving home:shift:
 

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Just for reference, I have the EFI standalone and have never had this issue after water gets into the engine bay. I've been running this setup for over half a year, daily driven with plenty of car washes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Which piggy back system did you go with, and hows it working out for you how often to you need to re-dyno it
I've got the Uni-chip that came with the original kit.

I tried avoiding washing around the engine compartment but water can still get in there. What if your car is parked and a freak T-storm hits and blows water up under the engine lid fins...guess you're just stranded until the thing dries out = 4-5 days in my experience.

I'd caulk it with silicon or something just to avoid the issue entirely.

Or another option is buy the stand alone for the kit. I'm thinkin about it because I really want to lower the came switch over point (the piggy back doesn't have control of this function). But $3200 is pricey for an ECU I think. Anyone else have the stand alone and want to comment on its value???
 

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THe EFI is a fantastic standalone. It's expensive because it's very good quality- right down to the wiring harness. Keep in mind that it's not a piggy-back. THe thing controls everything. Check out my two EFI threads. There's a fair amount of information on them.

You'll surely pick up a ton of torque in the lower two thirds of the power band with the EFI as well, as you'll have better fuel, spark, and cam control.

I've enjoyed mine thoroughly and you don't have to go to a certified uni-chip tuner to tinker with it. Drivability is fawless from start up to shut down (that doesn't come automatically, you have to tune for it and/or get a base map, which is easy enough), with or without the A/C on, etc. I've riden in a uni-chip car and incidentally it was having similar wiring gremlins that you're having. His was in the MAF wiring as we found out. In any event, you'll ditch the MAF all together and run on MAP, which is pretty cool as well. You'll also have a post intercooler MAT sensor so you can dial in some additional engine protection as your charge temps increase... Really cool stuff and not complicated once you get the hang of it...

Happy to help in any way that I can should you go down that path. What year is your car?...Most will tell you that if you get me on the phone, I'm lible to not let you off of it, so be sure to have plenty of minutes if you call:D

Best,

Phil


I've got the Uni-chip that came with the original kit.

I tried avoiding washing around the engine compartment but water can still get in there. What if your car is parked and a freak T-storm hits and blows water up under the engine lid fins...guess you're just stranded until the thing dries out = 4-5 days in my experience.

I'd caulk it with silicon or something just to avoid the issue entirely.

Or another option is buy the stand alone for the kit. I'm thinkin about it because I really want to lower the came switch over point (the piggy back doesn't have control of this function). But $3200 is pricey for an ECU I think. Anyone else have the stand alone and want to comment on its value???
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks a lot Phil,
I'm trying to save money and you're obviously trying to get me to blow a bunch more. Good to hear about the EFI. I was wanting to hear some reviews. I'll PM you later and we can discuss sometime


THe EFI is a fantastic standalone. It's expensive because it's very good quality- right down to the wiring harness. Keep in mind that it's not a piggy-back. THe thing controls everything. Check out my two EFI threads. There's a fair amount of information on them.

You'll surely pick up a ton of torque in the lower two thirds of the power band with the EFI as well, as you'll have better fuel, spark, and cam control.

I've enjoyed mine thoroughly and you don't have to go to a certified uni-chip tuner to tinker with it. Drivability is fawless from start up to shut down (that doesn't come automatically, you have to tune for it and/or get a base map, which is easy enough), with or without the A/C on, etc. I've riden in a uni-chip car and incidentally it was having similar wiring gremlins that you're having. His was in the MAF wiring as we found out. In any event, you'll ditch the MAF all together and run on MAP, which is pretty cool as well. You'll also have a post intercooler MAT sensor so you can dial in some additional engine protection as your charge temps increase... Really cool stuff and not complicated once you get the hang of it...

Happy to help in any way that I can should you go down that path. What year is your car?...Most will tell you that if you get me on the phone, I'm lible to not let you off of it, so be sure to have plenty of minutes if you call:D

Best,

Phil
 

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Im always getting p1302 with my unichip FF275, did your tune get rid of those for you?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Im always getting p1302 with my unichip FF275, did your tune get rid of those for you?

You're throwing a code repeatedly? I've only gotten 1 CEL ever in mine, and that was the first time I fired her up after installing the kit. It was a cylinder misfire. Never had a problem since....and I drove it a month before getting it tuned. Strangely enough, I never got a CEL when she choked out due to these recent problems....maybe the light is burnt out ;)
 

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You're throwing a code repeatedly? I've only gotten 1 CEL ever in mine, and that was the first time I fired her up after installing the kit. It was a cylinder misfire. Never had a problem since....and I drove it a month before getting it tuned. Strangely enough, I never got a CEL when she choked out due to these recent problems....maybe the light is burnt out ;)
I get the code within about two weeks of resetting it usually. I bought the car with the kit on it, previous owner said he saw it only 2 times, but he only drove it 1500 miles after the kit.

My car still has not been tuned, as I have been told tuning the unichip is a waste of money and time. They say it unlearns all of the tune within a month or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I get the code within about two weeks of resetting it usually. I bought the car with the kit on it, previous owner said he saw it only 2 times, but he only drove it 1500 miles after the kit.

My car still has not been tuned, as I have been told tuning the unichip is a waste of money and time. They say it unlearns all of the tune within a month or so.

I haven't noticed any "unlearning" and I've had the kit for a year and a half. The only differences I've found is that the kit is very susceptible to ambient temperature variations. Both tunes I've had were done in the morning when it was cool outside. The kit runs exceptional in the early morning or late afternoon when it cools down. I can definitely tell there is some loss of HP when its hot outside.

Dave we need to meet up for a drive sometime. Unfortunately I'm super busy the next several weeks. Headin up to Indy for the MotoGP race next weekend and then I'm going to Japan for 3 weeks on business. I'm open this weekend though
 
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