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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I have a question on replacing the clutch/flywheel...
Couldnt find any info or write ups :confused:

Car: 2005 Lotus Elise

1. Does the engine need to be top dead center when putting on the new flywheel?
2. What are the torque specs for the flywheel bolts and clutch bolts?
3. Are new flywheel bolts necessary or can I reuse the old bolts? Or go ARP?
4. Do our cars have a sensor for the flywheel? I cant seem to find it.
5. The Fidanza track clutch came with an alignment tool, on the end of the tool it has a spacer... Does the spacer go into the hole of the flywheel? (It keeps the tool from moving around..) only problem i see is that the spacer/ plastic thing wont be able to come out after i put the clutch on the flywheel... Is this ok?
 

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shay2nak
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3) get new factory flywheel bolts
 

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Discussion Starter #3
3) get new factory flywheel bolts
thanks for the quick answer for one of my questions! Do you happen to know the torque spec for those?
 

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For how cheap the ARP bolts are, may as well.

Torque spec is on the clutch directions. I remember reading it, just too lazy to go out to the garage to go look.

Don't remember a spacer, take a photo maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
For how cheap the ARP bolts are, may as well.

Torque spec is on the clutch directions. I remember reading it, just too lazy to go out to the garage to go look.

Don't remember a spacer, take a photo maybe?
Yeah im probably going to buy those.

I looked at the directions that came on the box but couldn't find any torque specs?

The spacer was a black plastic ring that the alignment tool went through. Ill grab a pic tomorrow.
 

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1. Does the engine need to be top dead center when putting on the new flywheel? I don't remember if we had to do that. Don't think it's necessary
2. What are the torque specs for the flywheel bolts and clutch bolts? I would email them and ask them. They have a very responsive support system.
3. Are new flywheel bolts necessary or can I reuse the old bolts? Or go ARP? I used the original ones but i guess it's better to go ARP
4. Do our cars have a sensor for the flywheel? I cant seem to find it. Don't remember seeing one.
5. The Fidanza track clutch came with an alignment tool, on the end of the tool it has a spacer... Does the spacer go into the hole of the flywheel? (It keeps the tool from moving around..) only problem i see is that the spacer/ plastic thing wont be able to come out after i put the clutch on the flywheel... Is this ok? Put the clutch on the fllywheel and use the tool to align it. No need to push it all the way in.


To be honest with you fidenza was not the best clutch / flywheel upgrade for the elise. After installing mine , I totally regretted choosing that brand. I think everybody in this forum agrees that ACT brand is a much better choice. In my personal opinion I think that flywheel is way too light and the clutch is very OEM similar so the combination is not a very good system. If you talk to anyone who races these cars they'll tell you that fidenza system didn't come out really good unless you use ceramic one which is not really street friendly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
1. Does the engine need to be top dead center when putting on the new flywheel? I don't remember if we had to do that. Don't think it's necessary
2. What are the torque specs for the flywheel bolts and clutch bolts? I would email them and ask them. They have a very responsive support system.
3. Are new flywheel bolts necessary or can I reuse the old bolts? Or go ARP? I used the original ones but i guess it's better to go ARP
4. Do our cars have a sensor for the flywheel? I cant seem to find it. Don't remember seeing one.
5. The Fidanza track clutch came with an alignment tool, on the end of the tool it has a spacer... Does the spacer go into the hole of the flywheel? (It keeps the tool from moving around..) only problem i see is that the spacer/ plastic thing wont be able to come out after i put the clutch on the flywheel... Is this ok? Put the clutch on the fllywheel and use the tool to align it. No need to push it all the way in.


To be honest with you fidenza was not the best clutch / flywheel upgrade for the elise. After installing mine , I totally regretted choosing that brand. I think everybody in this forum agrees that ACT brand is a much better choice. In my personal opinion I think that flywheel is way too light and the clutch is very OEM similar so the combination is not a very good system. If you talk to anyone who races these cars they'll tell you that fidenza system didn't come out really good unless you use ceramic one which is not really street friendly.
Thanks for the info. I bought these because I didnt want to order different parts from different places haha. I got the ceramic one btw.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Funny, because I was told the exact same just about ACT clutches.

This is the one I have for my car:
Fidanza V-2 Ceramic Track Clutch
I got the same. Any info on the install? I just got my tranny back from Sector111 that rebuilt it and put stronger 3rd and 4th gears. Track day next month so I want to get the car together so I can break in the clutch.
 

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If I remember right I was doing similar to my car. I have 3rd, 4th and 6th gear to swap and a limited slip to put in.

Right now working on other projects and I'll pull the car in when it starts to snow.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If I remember right I was doing similar to my car. I have 3rd, 4th and 6th gear to swap and a limited slip to put in.

Right now working on other projects and I'll pull the car in when it starts to snow.
Oh I see. Well Im going to work on the car tomorrow. Thats why my main problem is the torque specs for flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts.:confused:
 

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shay2nak
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ARP bolts aren't the same dimensions as stock, so wouldn't recommend them.

Don't remember the torque values. I want to say 58ftlbs, but not sure. I can't remember where I read it either. IIRC, the amount is listed in the installation instruction for the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ARP bolts aren't the same dimensions as stock, so wouldn't recommend them.

Don't remember the torque values. I want to say 58ftlbs, but not sure. I can't remember where I read it either. IIRC, the amount is listed in the installation instruction for the clutch.
Hmm weird Sector111 and MonkeyWrench and other people have recommended them.. So why would it not be a good idea?

Ill check the clutch instructions but I could have swore I didnt see anything.
 

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I just did this last week.
1. no
2. ARP has them on their site. and they come with the bolts1
!!!Warning, the instructions aren't quite clear. Put red loctitie on the threads, and arp-moly lube under the head. If you don't loctite you may leak.
If you use the 30Wt oil, it's also only under the head, not on the threads.
3. I've been told to always use new bolts.
4. There's no sensor.
5.Yes, the tool should fit into the the hole on the crank, and it will center the clutch. I don't recall any spacer on my tool.

FYI: I put it all together and have a little noise coming from the new throwout bearing. I found something somewhere that says you should lube it. It's too late for me, but not for you.

Hey guys I have a question on replacing the clutch/flywheel...
Couldnt find any info or write ups :confused:

Car: 2005 Lotus Elise

1. Does the engine need to be top dead center when putting on the new flywheel?
2. What are the torque specs for the flywheel bolts and clutch bolts?
3. Are new flywheel bolts necessary or can I reuse the old bolts? Or go ARP?
4. Do our cars have a sensor for the flywheel? I cant seem to find it.
5. The Fidanza track clutch came with an alignment tool, on the end of the tool it has a spacer... Does the spacer go into the hole of the flywheel? (It keeps the tool from moving around..) only problem i see is that the spacer/ plastic thing wont be able to come out after i put the clutch on the flywheel... Is this ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just did this last week.
1. no
2. ARP has them on their site. and they come with the bolts1
!!!Warning, the instructions aren't quite clear. Put red loctitie on the threads, and arp-moly lube under the head. If you don't loctite you may leak.
If you use the 30Wt oil, it's also only under the head, not on the threads.
3. I've been told to always use new bolts.
4. There's no sensor.
5.Yes, the tool should fit into the the hole on the crank, and it will center the clutch. I don't recall any spacer on my tool.

FYI: I put it all together and have a little noise coming from the new throwout bearing. I found something somewhere that says you should lube it. It's too late for me, but not for you.

Thanks man! Great info!
 

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I used the ARP ones from Monkey Wrench no problem.

I had someone hold a breaker bar on the pulley on the other side of the engine to keep the flywheel from turning while I torqued down the bolts.

Yes the little spacer stays in the engine.

 

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it's good to have friends. To prevent the engine from turning I made a metal bracket. Bolted one end to the engine, and the other to the flywheel.
 

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shay2nak
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Hmm weird Sector111 and MonkeyWrench and other people have recommended them.. So why would it not be a good idea?

Ill check the clutch instructions but I could have swore I didnt see anything.
because they're not specifically made for 2zz motor.

I used the ARP ones from Monkey Wrench no problem.

I had someone hold a breaker bar on the pulley on the other side of the engine to keep the flywheel from turning while I torqued down the bolts.

Yes the little spacer stays in the engine.

Are you sure? I didn't see anything about it in the instructions and VSA motorsports didn't leave it in (they've never left one in). I thought it was odd that you'd need it since it gets hot in the transmission and could potentially melt the plastic and ooze around. :shrug:

what's the purpose of that piece remaining inside?
 
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