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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looks like sector 111 has just come out with a bolt-in harness bar for the Evora - the "monkey bar"

Evora monkeyBAR

Along with the 4-point ASM harness, seems like a pretty solid upgrade for cars that see a fair amount of track. Thoughts?
 

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Disciple of Chapman
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Looks like sector 111 has just come out with a bolt-in harness bar for the Evora - the "monkey bar"

Evora monkeyBAR

Along with the 4-point ASM harness, seems like a pretty solid upgrade for cars that see a fair amount of track. Thoughts?
Looks interesting.
Sector 111 says it will take 1 to 1 1/2 to install in existing bolt locations. Wonder why so long. Do the existing belts have to be removed?
A bit steep on price. Need a custom belt configuration too.

looks well made and engineered
 

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Illegal Alien
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They made the prototype a number of years ago, they were ahead of the Evora modding and tracking era. I prompted Sector 111 to reconsider the aftermarket again now that more cars are running around and resurrect this bar.
 

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Very nice to see this crucial product, I would never want to track a car without a proper 6 point and neck protector.

But I do with the factory had threaded in some attachment points in the roll hoop like on Eliges. Sooo much easier.
 

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Illegal Alien
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I don't buy the 4- point stuff, but this bar is a great starting point to build a 6- point system.
 

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I'm going to get one. I've been emailing Shinoo back and forth on this. Its expensive but its also custom engineered for this car and he said he'd have to sell quite a few to break even.

Anyway, the issue I have is the harness itself. I've got a used one from my Exige (passenger side) I want to use in the Evora. But I gather it might not work - I think the issue is the mounting locations on the side.

VSA recommended installing eyelids separate from the seat that mount right through the floor. I'm trying to figure out which is the right way to go.

Then it comes down to 4 point ASM (and don't get started on a debate here) vs. 5 point. Problem is - with those nice Recaro seats (and the fact that I do track days, not racing), I'm thinking the 4 point is ok. I just can't see tearing those seats apart to try to cut into them and then somehow fixing up the fabric where the hole is to work out ok in the end. Julian, what is your plan for a 6 point - are you just going to get rid of the seat?

I've had 4 point before, then 5 point in my Exige. I do like the sub-bar as it seems more secure but I think the 4 point is ok with ASM.
 

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VSA or british racing group can sell you the Lotus Motorsports harness eyelets for the chassis. I can't remember exact price but it wasn't too steep. Two plates, requisite bolts, eyelets etc that go through the chassis. Install isn't difficult, just requires precise measuring. These allow for a 5 or 6 point for true safety, but require permanent modification to the floor pan and a different seat.

I don't think $500 is steep at all for this. Especially considering s111 usually is a bit on the higher end of the price spectrum for their items.


Shinoo, can you chime in on weight if you see this?
 

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I know its held in with 12 bolts, but....This compares to grabbing the top of a swing set and see how long it takes to tip it over. The lack of attachment (maybe can't see it) at some point distal to the top of the bar seems like compromised physics to me. Seems you'd at least want to use the rear shoulder belt points for stability. ???? I expected someone to simply make a beefed up version of the rear crossmember of the chassis as its position is ideal already. Or use their central reinforcement and add to existing crossmember.
Julian, while 6 points are ideal, I dare say necessary on a race car with no airbags, I've always wondered about their advantages on a street car with functional airbags. You hit that hard, airbags go off. If belted properly down low and as tight as you can get it, I routinely buckle with seat back, tighten, then slide seat forward to make even tighter, your sub risk is minimal. Most folks grossly undertighten the lap belts IMHO.
Interesting how these designs come out, but no one has commented specifically on the "inadequacy" of the stock crossmember.
 

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We are excited to finally make these available. Safety and quality are key to all of our designs. We've applied all that we've learned over the last ten years about harness bars to the EVORAmonkeyBAR.

One of our key client requests was to deliver a solution that required NO drilling or permanent modifications. We bolt it in place using 12 existing bolts. Two of these are the 7/16" bolts that are used by the rear belts. These are secure locations and we also incorporate the rear belts into the design. These belts are bolted to the ends of the bar with two more 7/16" bolts and will further secure the harness bar in the event of a crash. We think 12-14 attachment points is very secure (see pic). The bar is not tippy at all as the center brace and legs prevent is from moving. It weighs 14lbs.

We believe a 4pt ASM belt is perfectly fine for trackdays with a stock seat. If you are racing, we suggest a cage with a race seat and 6pt. Please understand driving a street car on the track is a compromise and our bar is not the ultimate race solution. We have not crash tested this bar.

The Schroth 4pt ASM belt that we are using and will offer is similar to the solution we sell for the Elise/Exige. The only difference is that the outboard lap belt uses a wrap around design. We bolt the lap belts to stock restraint locations that allow you to keep your 3pt stock belt intact for use on the street. These attachment points are obviously strong and tested by Lotus.

We're happy with the solution and confident that anyone who wants a clean bolt-in solution will agree. Several of you kicked us in the butt to make this happen so thank you! :bow:
 

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Thanks for further explanation Shinoo. Bolts 13 & 14 didn't show up well. They are KEY!! Please comment on the stock crossmember that runs across immediately under the rear window. To me, the fact that it connects to the location of the rear shoulder belts is very good. Is it the diameter of the crossmember that concerns everyone? Wouldn't a "V bar that connected to that member and used attachment points 9,10,11,12 work just as well?? Be lighter?? I've had a buddy in car watch that member while I stood on brakes from 100+ looking for movement while my shoulders were HARD into the harnesses and he saw NO movement at all. Both of us figured if I hit something that hard, airbags would fire and car would be sacrificial anyway. Comments welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've ordered this. Has anyone peeled back or removed all the foam in the back of a 2+0 for any reason? Any issues encountered?
 

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Very easy to do. No issues. If you have the strap running across for the luggage restraint., that's only thing to be careful with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Any idea if all of the seat belt bolt points are there, even with no seatbelts installed? I haven't had a chance to rip it apart yet.
 

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Good question! I guess my counter question would be: Do you think they would change the frame construction in the beginning of the build process for a 2+0 v a 2+2?? Would seem costly. They seem to have car set up for all potential accessories including power mirrors.
 

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Illegal Alien
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Good question! I guess my counter question would be: Do you think they would change the frame construction in the beginning of the build process for a 2+0 v a 2+2?? Would seem costly. They seem to have car set up for all potential accessories including power mirrors.
I would think not, as inventory costs would negate the few cents saved on no attachment point, but lotus did a major chassis differentiation between 2+0 and 2+2 in the roll hoop which make a +0 up upgradable.
 

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I put mine in this weekend. It is well made and fits well. Given that the Elise harness is about $200 or so and this one is scratch designed and built, I'd say its worth the money. There is what looks like a bar that you could wrap a harness around when you remove the rear seat back but the bar doesn't have any slack to actually wrap a shoulder belt around. This one allows the shoulder harness to go right straight back from the back of the seat.

It took me quite a long time to install. You have to take your seat out (don't lose those washers on the bottom). I took out driver's side since thats what you are going to attach the harness waist belt to anyway. I also used a sharpie to label one of the 2 seemingly identical electrical plugs on the bottom so that I'd make sure to line up the right female to male. I doubt it makes much difference. I don't know what all of that is. My car has the heated seat so there is a plug for that and a plug for the seat belt warning light but I'm not sure the 3rd plug. The seat is heavy - I tilted it toward the passenger side to remove the electrical connectors and then lifted out and set aside to work on the car. Its too bad the seat is as heavy as it is but it sure is comfortable so unless you want to go with a racing style seat, I'd keep it and just go with a Schroth ASM 4 point (thats what I did).

All the instructions are provided for the monkey bar and conceptually its simple but it just takes a while to get all the bolts out and you'll be on your knees a lot so use a nice knee pad. As the instructions say, its absolutely essential to have a 17mm wrench socket as the 2 bolts (1 and 2 in the picture) are a royal pain to deal with. I eventually borrowed one but when taking them out, all I had was a regular wrench and it took forever. The other bit of info is bolts 9-12 are very hard to get out. I almost stripped one of the heads. Thank g-d I didn't because I can't imagine how I would have gotten it out. I decided to put the nearly stripped bolt back in another location (quite a few of them are the same dimension).

They are dead serious that you don't want to tighten down everything. I put in all bolts and for some reason did bolt 1 last and for some reason that one is the absolute hardest to work on and no matter what I did, I couldn't get it lined up. I literally spent a few hours (half the time cursing) dealing with it. Finally, I went for a break, came back and threaded the wrench socket around the bolt and tried to put it in that way and lo and behold, it went in the first time. Trying to hand tighten or use a regular wrench would just not work.

As far as the harness, I had a leftover passenger side harness from my Exige so I just put that in here. I had to order the outboard waist harness for the Evora but the other waist side just fit in fine. The outboard waist harness that Shinoo can order for you fits around the little bar where the current front driver's side shoulder belt is attached. It fits just like the shoulder belts would fit on the monkey bar.

I would take pictures but frankly the picture shown is all you need other than that the bar is black.

I'm now nearly ready for the track - just gotta get my track wheels and tires and I'll be out there!
 
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