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First Brake Flush - What did I do wrong?

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So I did my first brake flush (via alone vacuum method) a few weeks ago but didn’t test ride until today.

After pumping brakes a few times, backed off lift.

Driving only around the block, everytime the first brake application, the pedal goes to the floor, the. The second and third are firm. Drive a few hundred feet and it goes to the floor again and it keeps repeating like this.

What does this sound like I did wrong? What to do now?
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You got some air in there. I've done the same and got rid of my vacuum bleeder and went to a Motive. Even got air on first try because I used the dry method and the reservoir doesn't need to drop much before it sucks air. Once I tried the wet method I'll never go back. You start with bleeding clutch then RR, LR, RF, LF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You got some air in there. I've done the same and got rid of my vacuum bleeder and went to a Motive. Even got air on first try because I used the dry method and the reservoir doesn't need to drop much before it sucks air. Once I tried the wet method I'll never go back. You start with bleeding clutch then RR, LR, RF, LF.
I was thinking about that. Is there a certain model I need that’s compatible with the Resevoir cap?
 

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What you did wrong is not having a friend help you. Live and learn. I've bought several different one-man bleeders...and will not again. Brake fluid is cheap. Is your life worth the cost of an extra can of fluid?
 

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What you did wrong is not having a friend help you. Live and learn. I've bought several different one-man bleeders...and will not again. Brake fluid is cheap. Is your life worth the cost of an extra can of fluid?
Funny I got getter results with the Motive than when I had to get help using two man method after trying vacuum bleeding and having soft pedal. Last two bleeds wet have the best pedal feel I ever had.
 
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You got some air in there. I've done the same and got rid of my vacuum bleeder and went to a Motive. Even got air on first try because I used the dry method and the reservoir doesn't need to drop much before it sucks air. Once I tried the wet method I'll never go back. You start with bleeding clutch then RR, LR, RF, LF.
Make sure to monitor the health of your hoses on the Motive. I had the hose from the pressure vessel to the cap fail epically and spray brake fluid all over the front of my Elise and over the soft top. Mad rush to get the wheel back on and the car out of the garage to give it a good rise and two washes. Luckily the only damage I've found so far is the wiper blade paint. I've had the clam off since and saw no damage anywhere.
The Motive is awesome when it's not spraying the car with brake fluid.
I would also recommend finding some loose gravel and cycling the ABS. My Elise pedal always feels better after I do that.
 

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I've used both vaccum as well as pressure on the Evora. I only use the two man method on my antiques. I've never had an issue getting a firm pedal with any method. (I hope I did not jinx myself! :rolleyes:)

The Motive I have is Model 0109 Black Label European Bleeder. It has the swivel cap that fits the Evora and is easy to remove. I also have a Bavarain Autosport pressure bleeder that is convienent because it has a built in relief valve. I do not remember the model since I bought it years ago but I believe its similar to this one:

I only use the dry method with them as I never want to have a leak that can cause paint damage. I'm just very careful to watch and make sure the fluid does not drop too low (typically refilling the reservoir after every corner).

I wouldn't capture and reuse the fluid. If you do push out any contamination you do not want to put it back in.
 

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Scott M
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I'm regularly bleeding my Evora and various other cars with a Motive pressure bleeder with great, predictable results: 15-19 psi works like a charm.
I've typically skipped inside bleed nipples on the Evora and other performance calipers, though I have yet to bleed "cooked" fluid on such vehicles.
 

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I also used the motive pressure bleeder (wet) and had no issues. I bled the inners as well, but they could probably be skipped and be fine. Just figured that I was already in there so why not. And yes, should be the 109 model if you want to get the nice swivel cap.
 

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Make sure to monitor the health of your hoses on the Motive. I had the hose from the pressure vessel to the cap fail epically and spray brake fluid all over the front of my Elise and over the soft top. Mad rush to get the wheel back on and the car out of the garage to give it a good rise and two washes. Luckily the only damage I've found so far is the wiper blade paint. I've had the clam off since and saw no damage anywhere.
The Motive is awesome when it's not spraying the car with brake fluid.
I would also recommend finding some loose gravel and cycling the ABS. My Elise pedal always feels better after I do that.
I've had this happen as well. The hose at the motive tank flexes a lot and weakens over time. Eventually it will split and there will be a mess to clean up.
 

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Dogtag, are you positive the fluid level didn't get too low while bleeding? Are any of the bleed screws loose and leaking fluid? I'd be surprised if you got that much air in it just from a simple vacuum bleed. Definitely check and bleed all points on the car (do both inner and outer on the calipers)
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dogtag, are you positive the fluid level didn't get too low while bleeding? Are any of the bleed screws loose and leaking fluid? I'd be surprised if you got that much air in it just from a simple vacuum bleed. Definitely check and bleed all points on the car (do both inner and outer on the calipers)
Checked all screws, nothing leaking. Also the Resevoir level has not lowered at all. I may have let the fluid go too low but I’m not certain. I do recall constant bubbles because I may have loosened the screws too far and assumed the air was coming around the screws. I think the vacuum method is the worst of all options.
 

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Second what chrome orange said. I use motiv with european attachment, dry bleed all the time (never tried wet) on all my cars street or track. I just bled my 400 right before LOG (I wrote about it in detail in another post). Basically could not get a drain tube on the clutch so I bled it naked. Not what I wouldve liked but the clearance is so tight, left me no choice. Good thing is I could hear every time the reservoir sucked air because the bleeder literally starts to fart (which can't be heard with the tube on). I checked the reservoir each time this happened to fill it and noticed it was pretty much a little past the half way mark.
My theory is you let the reservoir run too low sucking air in unknowingly...like catsailr said, it doesnt take much to run it low, I'd recommend filling it to the top and fill it once it reaches 3/4 down (yes 3/4) just to be on the safe side. For dry bleeding, it will be a pain to keep removing and filling but worth the time investment since its an annual job. I can't stress enough that you'll need to check the reservoir before each time you crack a nipple because you'll need to restart the job once it goes too low. Get extra brake fluid to be safe.
When doing the brakes themselves, don't be lazy and do both nipples (again annual job), out first, inner second. Before you crack it, make sure you tap the top of the caliper with your wrench to move any trapped air bubbles.
Lastly, to make sure you did everything right before you go putting everything back together, you can push the pedals to see how firm they are. I tried this when I got air in the clutch and the pedal went to the floor.
Regardless, pedal feel is just how I like it. Good luck, let us know how it goes, its tedious and not fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
How much should I expect to get out of the furthest bleed? Just go until bubbles stop or is there likely a big bubble like half a quart deep?

Everything arrives Monday so it’s a Tuesday job
 
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