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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

I'm about to do change the brake pads for this first time this weekend and had some questions about rear caliper 17mm bolt. Looking at tutorials online, it looks like loctite is applied to the 17mm bolt from factory. Is it necessary to reapply loctite when re-tightening the bolt? Or is ok to just torque the bolt to spec?
 

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Have never used it, and that's on the track car the brakes get abused. Never had a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Darn! Looks like I'll treat myself to some loctite and be safe than sorry. Thanks for the help everyone!
 

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`08 Elise-SC-220
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@Nstymatt - The factory shop manual says to use thread locker on re-assembly.

Glen
Just to put my nose in, the red is over-kill but the blue is the "Goldy-lock" for those caliper bolts. The bolts will never loosen up with it but will break free without torch persuasion. Just a drop at the top of the thread length (head end).
 

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Nein Kinder
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Excerpt from the shop manual for Lotus Elise, Braking:



The color of thread locker is not always a useful method of determining its properties. For example, Loctite 222 is a low-strength thread locker for small fasteners and it is red. (Edit: Henkel recently changed 222’s color to purple. Large stocks of red 222 are still available at retail outlets.)

The shop manual specifies Permabond A130. It is a medium strength thread locker designed for parts that "need to be dismantled for maintenance." Products similar to Permabond A130 include ...

Permatex 24200 - A blue medium strength thread locker. See the data sheet for more info.
Loctite 243 - A blue medium strength thread locker designed for removal. See the data sheet for more info.

Glen
 

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Whatever you choose to do with loctite/no loctite....Don't use any product that is rated high strength and "requires heat for removal". I had to do a search and destroy mission in my garage last year to throw this stuff out. If you need that type of threadlocker (regardless of color or brand) it should require a trip to the store and a 1 day waiting period so it's intentional.
 

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and had some questions about rear caliper 17mm bolt
Not everyone realizes that you do not need to remove the rear caliber mounting bolts in order to change the pads.

Pull out the pin and spring, then wiggle out the outside pad (push it towards the center of the hub until it clears, then slide it out) . Once the outside pad is removed, remove the small hex bolt holding the disk, then pull off the disk. It might take a tap or two to break any minor rust holding it onto the hub. Once the disk is removed, rummage under the car to find the inside pad, which has just fallen off the caliper. Note that the factory manual does not call for removal of the caliper mounting bolt.

I find this much easier as I don't have to fight with the e-brake cable, it's easier to twist the piston back in if both bolts remain in place, and no lock-tite or critical torques are necessary.
 

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Not everyone realizes that you do not need to remove the rear caliber mounting bolts in order to change the pads.

Pull out the pin and spring, then wiggle out the outside pad (push it towards the center of the hub until it clears, then slide it out) . Once the outside pad is removed, remove the small hex bolt holding the disk, then pull off the disk. It might take a tap or two to break any minor rust holding it onto the hub. Once the disk is removed, rummage under the car to find the inside pad, which has just fallen off the caliper. Note that the factory manual does not call for removal of the caliper mounting bolt.

I find this much easier as I don't have to fight with the e-brake cable, it's easier to twist the piston back in if both bolts remain in place, and no lock-tite or critical torques are necessary.
Do you have the wheel bolts or wheel studs? Just wondering if studs still leave enough room to remove the rotor.
 

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Do you have the wheel bolts or wheel studs? Just wondering if studs still leave enough room to remove the rotor.
I have studs with S111 Ultradiscs, no way to get the pad out without loosening the caliper bolt.

It's just an anecdote, but I forgot loctite once and my caliper bolt backed out, and on its way out, the wiggling damaged the threads in the upright. I discovered this when my caliper locked my rear wheel coming out of T11 at Laguna Seca. The spin was epic.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not everyone realizes that you do not need to remove the rear caliber mounting bolts in order to change the pads.

Pull out the pin and spring, then wiggle out the outside pad (push it towards the center of the hub until it clears, then slide it out) . Once the outside pad is removed, remove the small hex bolt holding the disk, then pull off the disk. It might take a tap or two to break any minor rust holding it onto the hub. Once the disk is removed, rummage under the car to find the inside pad, which has just fallen off the caliper. Note that the factory manual does not call for removal of the caliper mounting bolt.

I find this much easier as I don't have to fight with the e-brake cable, it's easier to twist the piston back in if both bolts remain in place, and no lock-tite or critical torques are necessary.
Interesting, thanks! For some reason all of the DIY tutorials suggest removing the caliper mounting bolt, instead of the rotor. But from what you describe it does sound much easier to remove on hex bolt vs. dealing with loctite, e-brake, etc.
 

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Do you have the wheel bolts or wheel studs? Just wondering if studs still leave enough room to remove the rotor.
Bolts. Studs would make it impossible to remove the disk without getting the caliper out of the way. While you could still wiggle the inner pad out with the disk in place, there'd be no way to turn the piston back in without removing the disk.
 
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