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Discussion Starter #1
whatcha doing with the flat area for the license plate...sorta just sits there staring at you knowing you want it to go away :rolleyes: Is there a Elise plate of some sort that can go there???
 

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When I get my Elise am going to attach the license plate with industrial strength velcro and use it a curb warning device.
 

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Sure..here ya go...it comes with matching decorative sill plates. Everything mounts with the preapplied double sided foam tape. Here's a crop from a autocross grid pic from yesterday.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thats what I am looking for>>>

does it only come with the sill plates and can you get it separately? Did you run AutoX on Sunday? and how did you fare?
Thanks for the reply :clap:
 

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>>>does it only come with the sill plates and can you get it separately? Did you run AutoX on Sunday? and how did you fare? <<<

Yes it only comes with the sill plates and run about 110-120 bux. It can be filmed to protect it. BTW the paint film does a *great* job against autocross cone marks.

I did nicely in the auto-x, check out the concurrent thread.
 

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aletes said:
When I get my Elise am going to attach the license plate with industrial strength velcro and use it a curb warning device.
I've been thinking of the same thing as well. Although I had it in mind to use zip ties and hang it on the slats in the forward grill this way I wont change anything in the clam. I don't intend on leaving it on long, just long enough to 'learn' where the bottom is.
 

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adamant said:
I think it needs a cone cam so you can tell if you are going to scrape :eek: :p
Realistically you'd need two cone cams, one on each side, unless you're only planning on going fast, turn left! ;)
 

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babak, I like the way you think. :)
 

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Yes it only comes with the sill plates and run about 110-120 bux. It can be filmed to protect it. BTW the paint film does a *great* job against autocross cone marks.

I did nicely in the auto-x, check out the concurrent thread.
Stan - where did you order the sill plate kit from ??
 

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I saw Stan's first hand. He got them from his dealer. The front looked awesome, but the sides didn't fit, and had popped up in the middle (our Elises have curves everywhere, it seems) so Stan and the dealer were looking for a fix.

I wish I could buy the front and 86 the sides...
 

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>>>Stan - where did you order the sill plate kit from ??<<<

From my dealer, HRM. PN LOTACO5336

They are aluminum plates etched with the design on them. They came with no install diagram. If you place the sill plates on the sills near the bottom of the door, centered, they are visible when the door is closed. I moved mine around a bit by peeling them up and repositioning them inward and forward until they were no longer visible from outside of the car when the door is shut. But when you peel them up as I did, it's easy to slightly bend them (which can be fixed). Between the bending and the now weaker doubleside tape and finally the actual curved contour of the sill, the fit is not what it should be! HRM will replace them at a convenient time, no problemo so I have been playing with them to help figure out the best possible spot. To me it appears that a slight redesign is needed so that they fit the car better. Some folks suggest that they are not even supposed to be on the painted sills. Rather, they say they are supposed to be fixed to the black plastic upper sill covers. The trouble with that is that they'll get scuffed and the edge will catch on things. Not to mention, it would look weird.

Here's a PIC before I moved them inward and forward:

 

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Hey, Stan-a bit off-topic, but I'll ask here anyway:

What is the touch up cleaner you use, what kind of cloth, and what is your subwoofer again? Does that subwoofer have a built in amp? Thanks again...
 

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>>>What is the touch up cleaner you use, what kind of cloth, and what is your subwoofer again? Does that subwoofer have a built in amp? Thanks again...<<<

Hey Jer...I use Eagle 1 detail spray and microfiber cloth from Costco (66 cents apiece!). For the cone scuff I used a cleaner/wax with some polishing agents to get the black stuff off of the paint film. Sometimes you need some bug and tar remover too. My car is lighter colored than yours (SY versus BRP) so tar stains are more apparent. I use Rejex on the wheels so that brake dust doesn't stick. A quick no-scrubbing-required soft brush effort with straight water cleans them up very quickly.

The subwoofer is a 7.7 pound 60 watt self powered Kenwood "woox". It has a remote and for the moment is powered off of the power adapter between the seats. It lives on the parcel shelf behind the driver's seat where it easily fits. All of the connections unplug so for example I yanked it out for the auto-x. It helps a lot with the top on the car, but is not strong enough for highway, top off stuff (and neither is the rest of the system). I sent it a signal from the Blaupunkt's subwoofer pre-out jack - you need to yank the unit and plug-in the supplied jack-pack to access that feature.
 

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>>>stan, how come you didnt put rejex on the entire car and only used it on the rims?<<<

Well I also put some rejex up front to help with highway bug build-up. Many people use it on their entire vehicles including many Porsche and BMW enthusiasts. Rejex is a synthetic. I also coated the rear portion of the diffusers with Rejex. You can get Rejex online for about 12-15 dollars against the 20 dollar MSRP. It was not made for automotive use but was developed as an industrial product to make aircraft maintenance / cleaning easier. For example it works well where soot from plane exhausts discolors the bodywork. Wipes off easily with soapy water with Rejex, scrub time with harsh chemicals if you don't use it. On our cars you can get some exhaust soot on the diffuser, behind the tips, BTW.

I greatly prefer the appearance of a carnauba wax such as P21S / S200 over the synths. In some lighting conditions (not midday) it looks very different than the synths. Think of Rejex as an easier to apply Zaino or other synthetic. They do look good, and are very shiny and durable. Wax does something to the light that can give it a glowing characteristic.

If your car is clean you can S100 it in about 10-15 minutes. And you can get S100 for 15 bux at motorcycle places, or 11 bux on the net. It beat Zaino for absolute appearance in the Guru Reports testing. You literally wipe it on a section and then immediately wipe it off with the other hand using s microfiber cloth. It's a half notch harder than using a quick detailing spray, except that the QDs can help out with light nonadherent dust. It does not make the black trim or louvers get white marks on them as regular wax can do.

I'm not a car show guy but the best looking glop I have ever used in terms of the right-this-minute look is 3M's Imperial Hand Glaze, especially on older finishes with some swirls. It hides all the swirls and shines and glows like crazy. But it evaporates in like a week as it has no wax in it. The S100 has a slightly better glow though and lasts about 2 months.
 
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