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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had the proverbial 4x4 Truck back into my parked Lotus. So while the front clam is being repaired I brought it home from the body shop to take this opportunity to work on it without the clam on.

So here is what I am doing so far:
1.) Steibal horn install
2.) driving lights install
3.) I want to change the coolant still looking for help on this.
4.) Change the brake pads

So my question is what else would you do if you were me??
 

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Not sure I would do them all but here are some more...

Add power take off to supply clean electrons to the stereo. You can run some wires to the dash area, include some good fuses. You will be doing similar stuff for the horn install and the fuse block is readily available with the clam off.

Install the heater core cooling hose bypass. This by passes the heater core for the cooling circuit. Search this site for more information.

Not sure why the coolant exchange is important as most of that is done from the other end of the car.

Check your oil cooler and radiator connections for cracking, important depending on the year of your car.

Strap down everything in sight, as rattles are notorious at this end of the car. Remove front camber shims if you are going to do anything performance related.

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response.

I did the coolant because I was close to the interval and bleeding was a little easier, everything was in plane sight. I disconnected the hoses at the front instead of the rear because they were much easier to get to. I know the normal proceedure is from the rear but there are hoses and wiring that made it look like it would be a lot more difficult.

The horn and the lights were a brease.

Please explain the power take off for clean power more. I havn't wired the horn yet and was contemplating adding another fuse block for mounting additional accessories. Are you suggesting running another line directly from the battery?

My car is an early 05' I am coming up on four years and havn't had any rattles but will certainly look to strap things down.

Thanks
 

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clean power, no voltage drop

The idea is to give clean, full power to a device, usually the high current items like headlights, horns and clean power to the audio devices. The wiring is a compromise, the smaller (read lighter) wires have more resistance than large wires and so the voltage will drop if you have to run very far. That is why you see large wires going to custom stereo installs.

Electric motors run hot and will burn out if not supplied with voltages close to their specification. So using the existing horn wires to drive a compressor type horn (Steibel) can be considered a bad idea. You will not provide a full 14.4 volts to the horn as the small wire will drop the voltage. Same goes for HID and other high end head lights.

One way to up the voltage is to run a large cross section wire from the battery or other primary terminal to the device and turn the current on with a relay controlled by the existing wire. You can use the existing horn wire to close the relay that turns on the large wire horn supply. Most horn instructions include a wiring diagram and often the relay itself.

My suggestion was to include a large diameter (small gauge) wire from your battery to the front of the car. The Exige also has a terminal at the front, under the left access panel, to be used for jumping or to provide power so the doors can be opened. (The engine hatch cannot be opened from outside the car, so it is important to be able to open the doors...) I obtained a power source for my stereo from this junction block.

I made the decision to use the existing wiring to drive my horn. Many will tell you I am living dangerously and putting my car at risk of a fire. However I decided the horn is used rarely if at all and only for short durations. You should not do anything to your car unless you know what you are doing, and any other disclaimers you want to put here...
 

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install hidden machine guns so you don't get backed into again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am wiring the horn with the relay. I would like to run a wire for an auxiliary power supply source. Anyone have suggestions on how to run something from the battery on an '05 Elise to the front compartment? or is there another sorce other than the battery?
I don't really want to splice off the fuse block for multiple accessories.

I also did the heater bypass but havn't finished the wiring.
 

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I am wiring the horn with the relay. I would like to run a wire for an auxiliary power supply source. Anyone have suggestions on how to run something from the battery on an '05 Elise to the front compartment? or is there another sorce other than the battery?
I don't really want to splice off the fuse block for multiple accessories.

I also did the heater bypass but havn't finished the wiring.
There is an unfused terminal block in the dash directly in front of the driver. It's roughly 3 inches side to side and 2 inches front to back, has a black plastic cover, and is located pretty close to the windshield in the dash. It's fed directly from the battery and is the primary power source for the front of the car. Anything you tie into this block needs to be fused.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Do you need to remove the dash to get to it? Can it be accessed from the back?

In other words how do I get to it?
 
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