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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to move to a Tilton under foot setup so that the pedal positions are better for left foot braking. This setup is AWESOME and I 100% credit it for all my wins. If you want to go faster this + front calipers to rear is worth like 20 horsepower.

This is the full setup with plug and play hoses and the sensor blocks with bleeds. I stripped the sensor blocks a while back so I re tapped the sensor ports for 1/4 NPT and put in a 1/4 to 1/8 NPT bushing to fit standard brake pressure sensors, it's a little hokey, but it has been in there for 2 years of track use with no leaks.

I will get some pics once its out of the car and cleaned up, but you probably know what it looks like and they are $1920 shipped new, Unlike some of my stuff it is on good cosmetic condition and works great.


$1400 shipped.
 

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@kfennell is correct. The best thing for a serious track car is to remove the ABS and brake booster and install split masters. The brake feel is much better and you can better regulate tire lockup. Since you can change the front to rear bias, you can get these cars to stop much better; ie, trail braking, since you can get some rear brake bias in the car. With the car having 60% rear weight, this is a necessity. I drive mine on the street with no brake booster and it really isn't that bad.

Later,
Eldon
 

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A1 Automotive & Smog
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How you down-shift or heel-and-toe with left foot braking? Any video to school me?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How you down-shift or heel-and-toe with left foot braking? Any video to school me?
I am moving to a paddle shifted sequential, however I have been LFB as much as I can in my car, any time that I am not downshifting I LFB and it has helped a fair bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bump, suprised there hasn't been more interest, I will get this out of the car for pics this week, hope tomorrow.
 
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