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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to move to a Tilton under foot setup so that the pedal positions are better for left foot braking. This setup is AWESOME and I 100% credit it for all my wins. If you want to go faster this + front calipers to rear is worth like 20 horsepower.

This is the full setup with plug and play hoses and the sensor blocks with bleeds. I stripped the sensor blocks a while back so I re tapped the sensor ports for 1/4 NPT and put in a 1/4 to 1/8 NPT bushing to fit standard brake pressure sensors, it's a little hokey, but it has been in there for 2 years of track use with no leaks.

I will get some pics once its out of the car and cleaned up, but you probably know what it looks like and they are $1920 shipped new, Unlike some of my stuff it is on good cosmetic condition and works great.


$1400 shipped.
 

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@kfennell is correct. The best thing for a serious track car is to remove the ABS and brake booster and install split masters. The brake feel is much better and you can better regulate tire lockup. Since you can change the front to rear bias, you can get these cars to stop much better; ie, trail braking, since you can get some rear brake bias in the car. With the car having 60% rear weight, this is a necessity. I drive mine on the street with no brake booster and it really isn't that bad.

Later,
Eldon
 

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How you down-shift or heel-and-toe with left foot braking? Any video to school me?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How you down-shift or heel-and-toe with left foot braking? Any video to school me?
I am moving to a paddle shifted sequential, however I have been LFB as much as I can in my car, any time that I am not downshifting I LFB and it has helped a fair bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bump, suprised there hasn't been more interest, I will get this out of the car for pics this week, hope tomorrow.
 

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I am moving to a paddle shifted sequential, however I have been LFB as much as I can in my car, any time that I am not downshifting I LFB and it has helped a fair bit.
which unit?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Brakes are sold, I am using the DJM sequential (formerly the one sold by elise parts) with a motec ECU, XAP shifter (**** don't use it), and AiM paddles/wheel.

- Fastest Lap of the weekend, all cars including unlimited class.

- 3s off cota class record on **** tires in traffic, easily will get into 18-19 range.
 

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Acme Super Moderator ** The Enforcer **
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Brakes are sold, I am using the DJM sequential (formerly the one sold by elise parts) with a motec ECU, XAP shifter (**** don't use it), and AiM paddles/wheel.
If your goods are sold and you want this closed, quote me, message me or mention me (@oldmansan).

San
 

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Thats quite the setup! Some big bucks in that car! It was amazing how much youd catch up braking for turns. Thanks for sharing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thats quite the setup! Some big bucks in that car! It was amazing how much youd catch up braking for turns. Thanks for sharing.
Want to guess what it cost? Its a lot, but probably less then you are going to guess, bought the engine, trans, dry sump 2nd hand new and got deals on motec etc. I estimate that I have less then half of what my main competitor has spent, maybe 1/3
 

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Well if he won't I will just for fun. purely off the top of my head : $35k ($10k engine, $8k trans, $3k sump, $3k in various electrical/connection bits, $5k ecu, $5k tuning, and anything left over on incidentals)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You ended up kind of in the ballpark, but just by luck, 15k drivetrain $14k electrical including scratch built harness, 3000 plumbing then so many other small pieces about $43k But that includes all the other systems. This was everything on the car but the hubs and the wiper more or less.
1261411
 

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Darn should have gone with my initial knee jerk guess. Based on your comment I lowered what I was initially thinking... That is impressive! I know people that put more than that in spec miatas, and I know another guy that paid nearly that amount for dampers alone on his race Porsche.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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